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Converting DT Swiss 12 x 148 rear hub to 10 x 135

4078 Views 14 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  cdalemaniac
I ordered the parts that "should" work, the end caps and an axle/nut, the instructions said it will work for "all" DT Swiss hub bodies.

Is this really gonna work?
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Never tried it so I don't know but.... Wouldn't the brake disc be off? Unless the end caps offset the hub and you re-dished the wheel?
Never tried it so I don't know but.... Wouldn't the brake disc be off? Unless the end caps offset the hub and you re-dished the wheel?
Redishing is easy, I just don't know if I ordered the right parts.
I'm pretty sure its not possible because boost hub have more spacing between the spoke flanges. Usually it can only be done if the hub was a 142x12.
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Is this really gonna work?
Nope.

Those instructions were written before Boost existed...
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A 142mm through-axle hub is the same width as a 135mm QR hub. The Boost hub is 148mm, which requires a 6mm wider rear triangle and as others have said, the rotor will sit 3mm (or more) further out.
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You are gonna end up with a boost 141mm hub.
You are gonna end up with a boost 141mm hub.
OK,if I can find at 142 hub and use the 135 x 10 conversion, will that give me a 135 hub?
OK,if I can find at 142 hub and use the 135 x 10 conversion, will that give me a 135 hub?
Yes
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I realize this thread is a little old but in wanting to do the same conversion I thought I'd add what I've learned on the subject.

The 142 mm rear axle spacing is identical to the 135 spacing with the exception that the former is intended for through axle (TA) while the latter is for quick release (QR). The way TA works is that while the spacing of the rear triangle is still 135, the mounting point has a recess on each stay junction that is 3.5 mm deep. This allows the wheel to be "notched" into position while it "bottoms out" (technically "tops out") when fully inserted. The idea is that TA wheels are self-centering so when one puts the TA through the frame it will automagically go though the wheel hub as well.

Given the additional 3.5 mm recesses on each side for a total of 7 mm one can see how the "no notch" spacing of 135 mm for QR goes to 142 mm for TA. The additional 3.5 mm required for TA in the hub is accounted for in the end caps. So if one wants to use a rear wheel on two bikes one designed for 142 TA and the other designed for 135 QR, the only change needed (assuming the hubs are designed with swappable end caps) is to swap the end caps from 142x12 to 135x10.

Now..., about that 10 mm in 135x10 here's the thing. A rear dropout designed for QR has an "opening" of 10 mm whether the frame has horizontal (vintage) or vertical dropouts (modern MTB, gravel and road). These 10 mm can be "filled" with either QR type end caps which have an OD of 10 mm and an ID of 5 mm. Why 5 mm ID? Because that's the typical spec of the QR skewer. So basically the end caps have a "thickness" of 2.5 mm.

An interesting alternative to using a QR, particularly on disc brake "classic" frames (reason why TA's were invented), that have a 135 spacing with NO notches (hence, not 142 mm) is to use end caps on the hub that have an ID of 10 mm and result in a hub width of 135 mm. As far as I know only DT Swiss makes hubs (or rather end caps for their hubs) of this type and they are designed for their 10x135 RWS "maxle" or through-bolt (TB). What's the difference between a TA and a TB you ask... :) A TA is typically a threaded axle without a handle that screws DIRECTLY into the frame (or fork for 12/15x100 front wheels). A TB is also a threaded axle but it has a handle and screws into a nut. So a TB is very similar to a QR skewer except that instead of having a 5 mm diameter it has a 10 mm diameter and it lacks the springs. Instead of having a cam lock mechanism, it simply tightens into the nut via the handle which helps to rotate it (see attached picture).

The nice thing about using a 10x135 DT RWS TB on 135 older MTB and Gravel frames is that it results in the same sort of strength and security that a 142 mm TA does on modern frames. Unlike TA's a TB also doesn't need to be removed from the wheel as it doesn't thread "though" the frame as the frame has open dropouts (usually vertical). In practice it's installed like a QR wheel is but instead of locking the cam of the QR, one simply screws the TB tight until sufficient side pressure is exerted between the frame and hub (end caps0 to keep the wheel in place.

Why did I bother learning or finding out this stuff? Because I happen to be converting a hybrid 135 mm spacing vertical dropout frame into a gravel bike and was concerned about the use of a standard QR on a 160 mm disc rotor wheel. As we know, QR's are great for rim brake bikes but became a concern with disc brake bikes as the braking action could cause the wheel to pop out of the dropouts under heavy braking load.

My quest now is to find out which hubs, besides DT, allow typical 12x142 end caps to be converted to 10x135. In particular I'm interested in Hunt and Boyd hubs but as far as I know neither company make these types of end caps for their hubs (Boyd are internally designed, Hunt are rebranded well known Chinese hubs). I'm wondering if there is a way to modify 12x142 end caps of say a Boyd Quest hub to 10x135. The width can be achieved by grinding down the caps and adding an appropriate washer at the ends (on the TB) but the ID needs to be "shrunk" from 12 to 10 mm which requires a 1 mm sleeve! That is pretty thin...

Well, enough of that. I hope this is of some interest and help to others.

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I realize this thread is a little old but in wanting to do the same conversion I thought I'd add what I've learned on the subject. The 142 mm rear axle spacing is identical to the 135 spacing with the exception that the former is intended for through axle (TA) while the latter is for quick release (QR). The way TA works is that while the spacing of the rear triangle is still 135, the mounting point has a recess on each stay junction that is 3.5 mm deep. This allows the wheel to be "notched" into position while it "bottoms out" (technically "tops out") when fully inserted. The idea is that TA wheels are self-centering so when one puts the TA through the frame it will automagically go though the wheel hub as well. Given the additional 3.5 mm recesses on each side for a total of 7 mm one can see how the "no notch" spacing of 135 mm for QR goes to 142 mm for TA. The additional 3.5 mm required for TA in the hub is accounted for in the end caps. So if one wants to use a rear wheel on two bikes one designed for 142 TA and the other designed for 135 QR, the only change needed (assuming the hubs are designed with swappable end caps) is to swap the end caps from 142x12 to 135x10. Now..., about that 10 mm in 135x10 here's the thing. A rear dropout designed for QR has an "opening" of 10 mm whether the frame has horizontal (vintage) or vertical dropouts (modern MTB, gravel and road). These 10 mm can be "filled" with either QR type end caps which have an OD of 10 mm and an ID of 5 mm. Why 5 mm ID? Because that's the typical spec of the QR skewer. So basically the end caps have a "thickness" of 2.5 mm. An interesting alternative to using a QR, particularly on disc brake "classic" frames (reason why TA's were invented), that have a 135 spacing with NO notches (hence, not 142 mm) is to use end caps on the hub that have an ID of 10 mm and result in a hub width of 135 mm. As far as I know only DT Swiss makes hubs (or rather end caps for their hubs) of this type and they are designed for their 10x135 RWS "maxle" or through-bolt (TB). What's the difference between a TA and a TB you ask... :) A TA is typically a threaded axle without a handle that screws DIRECTLY into the frame (or fork for 12/15x100 front wheels). A TB is also a threaded axle but it has a handle and screws into a nut. So a TB is very similar to a QR skewer except that instead of having a 5 mm diameter it has a 10 mm diameter and it lacks the springs. Instead of having a cam lock mechanism, it simply tightens into the nut via the handle which helps to rotate it (see attached picture). The nice thing about using a 10x135 DT RWS TB on 135 older MTB and Gravel frames is that it results in the same sort of strength and security that a 142 mm TA does on modern frames. Unlike TA's a TB also doesn't need to be removed from the wheel as it doesn't thread "though" the frame as the frame has open dropouts (usually vertical). In practice it's installed like a QR wheel is but instead of locking the cam of the QR, one simply screws the TB tight until sufficient side pressure is exerted between the frame and hub (end caps0 to keep the wheel in place. Why did I bother learning or finding out this stuff? Because I happen to be converting a hybrid 135 mm spacing vertical dropout frame into a gravel bike and was concerned about the use of a standard QR on a 160 mm disc rotor wheel. As we know, QR's are great for rim brake bikes but became a concern with disc brake bikes as the braking action could cause the wheel to pop out of the dropouts under heavy braking load. My quest now is to find out which hubs, besides DT, allow typical 12x142 end caps to be converted to 10x135. In particular I'm interested in Hunt and Boyd hubs but as far as I know neither company make these types of end caps for their hubs (Boyd are internally designed, Hunt are rebranded well known Chinese hubs). I'm wondering if there is a way to modify 12x142 end caps of say a Boyd Quest hub to 10x135. The width can be achieved by grinding down the caps and adding an appropriate washer at the ends (on the TB) but the ID needs to be "shrunk" from 12 to 10 mm which requires a 1 mm sleeve! That is pretty thin... Well, enough of that. I hope this is of some interest and help to others.
Hope hubs also offer end caps to convert their 12x142 hubs to 10x135. I am looking to do something similar, and DT Swiss and Hope are the only hubs I've found that offer 10x135.
Yes thanks. I’d read that Hope has those end caps as well. I believe Hope hubs are often used on custom builds so I didn’t comment on them.

One snag I’ve run into is that DT make 10x135 end caps for HG and XD drivers only. However, for gravel wheels, where an XDR driver is more often used than XD, there appear to be no appropriate caps. The additional 1.8 mm of the XDR over the XD driver would result in a hub width of 136.8 mm which could end up causing chain line issues should one stretch the stays to fit the additional hub width.

If anyone has an XDR wheel solution on DT hubs, I’m all ears!
Another idea would be to drill out the 135mm QR end cap. This is something that I have been considering to solve the same problem.

I have 2 bikes with 10x135mm Chris King rear hubs, one came in that configuration and the other I converted from 9qr x 135. It wasn't cheap though as it required replacing the one piece axle.
Point is that Chris King hubs can be used though it's probably tough to source the parts for conversion. Plenty of 135/142 ISO hubs on eBay but the axle is a bit trickier to obtain.
Converted my I9 135mm system wheels to 10x135mm a few years ago and it made a big difference on my full-suspension bike in regards of stiffness. Industry Nine has various end caps to convert to different standards. DT Swiss 10x135mm skewer is pretty much the only option out there if you want to convert. It’s what I use(d) as well. Trying to get a hold of some 10x135 end caps for my Project321 torch based 135mm hub appears to be a pain in the neck though, as it uses the screw in type like the pre torch I9 hubs…..
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