Never tried it so I don't know but.... Wouldn't the brake disc be off? Unless the end caps offset the hub and you re-dished the wheel?
Redishing is easy, I just don't know if I ordered the right parts.Never tried it so I don't know but.... Wouldn't the brake disc be off? Unless the end caps offset the hub and you re-dished the wheel?
Nope.Is this really gonna work?
OK,if I can find at 142 hub and use the 135 x 10 conversion, will that give me a 135 hub?You are gonna end up with a boost 141mm hub.
YesOK,if I can find at 142 hub and use the 135 x 10 conversion, will that give me a 135 hub?
Hope hubs also offer end caps to convert their 12x142 hubs to 10x135. I am looking to do something similar, and DT Swiss and Hope are the only hubs I've found that offer 10x135.I realize this thread is a little old but in wanting to do the same conversion I thought I'd add what I've learned on the subject. The 142 mm rear axle spacing is identical to the 135 spacing with the exception that the former is intended for through axle (TA) while the latter is for quick release (QR). The way TA works is that while the spacing of the rear triangle is still 135, the mounting point has a recess on each stay junction that is 3.5 mm deep. This allows the wheel to be "notched" into position while it "bottoms out" (technically "tops out") when fully inserted. The idea is that TA wheels are self-centering so when one puts the TA through the frame it will automagically go though the wheel hub as well. Given the additional 3.5 mm recesses on each side for a total of 7 mm one can see how the "no notch" spacing of 135 mm for QR goes to 142 mm for TA. The additional 3.5 mm required for TA in the hub is accounted for in the end caps. So if one wants to use a rear wheel on two bikes one designed for 142 TA and the other designed for 135 QR, the only change needed (assuming the hubs are designed with swappable end caps) is to swap the end caps from 142x12 to 135x10. Now..., about that 10 mm in 135x10 here's the thing. A rear dropout designed for QR has an "opening" of 10 mm whether the frame has horizontal (vintage) or vertical dropouts (modern MTB, gravel and road). These 10 mm can be "filled" with either QR type end caps which have an OD of 10 mm and an ID of 5 mm. Why 5 mm ID? Because that's the typical spec of the QR skewer. So basically the end caps have a "thickness" of 2.5 mm. An interesting alternative to using a QR, particularly on disc brake "classic" frames (reason why TA's were invented), that have a 135 spacing with NO notches (hence, not 142 mm) is to use end caps on the hub that have an ID of 10 mm and result in a hub width of 135 mm. As far as I know only DT Swiss makes hubs (or rather end caps for their hubs) of this type and they are designed for their 10x135 RWS "maxle" or through-bolt (TB). What's the difference between a TA and a TB you ask... A TA is typically a threaded axle without a handle that screws DIRECTLY into the frame (or fork for 12/15x100 front wheels). A TB is also a threaded axle but it has a handle and screws into a nut. So a TB is very similar to a QR skewer except that instead of having a 5 mm diameter it has a 10 mm diameter and it lacks the springs. Instead of having a cam lock mechanism, it simply tightens into the nut via the handle which helps to rotate it (see attached picture). The nice thing about using a 10x135 DT RWS TB on 135 older MTB and Gravel frames is that it results in the same sort of strength and security that a 142 mm TA does on modern frames. Unlike TA's a TB also doesn't need to be removed from the wheel as it doesn't thread "though" the frame as the frame has open dropouts (usually vertical). In practice it's installed like a QR wheel is but instead of locking the cam of the QR, one simply screws the TB tight until sufficient side pressure is exerted between the frame and hub (end caps0 to keep the wheel in place. Why did I bother learning or finding out this stuff? Because I happen to be converting a hybrid 135 mm spacing vertical dropout frame into a gravel bike and was concerned about the use of a standard QR on a 160 mm disc rotor wheel. As we know, QR's are great for rim brake bikes but became a concern with disc brake bikes as the braking action could cause the wheel to pop out of the dropouts under heavy braking load. My quest now is to find out which hubs, besides DT, allow typical 12x142 end caps to be converted to 10x135. In particular I'm interested in Hunt and Boyd hubs but as far as I know neither company make these types of end caps for their hubs (Boyd are internally designed, Hunt are rebranded well known Chinese hubs). I'm wondering if there is a way to modify 12x142 end caps of say a Boyd Quest hub to 10x135. The width can be achieved by grinding down the caps and adding an appropriate washer at the ends (on the TB) but the ID needs to be "shrunk" from 12 to 10 mm which requires a 1 mm sleeve! That is pretty thin... Well, enough of that. I hope this is of some interest and help to others.