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I've got a stock 7" travel Stinky. I want to lighten it up from 45lbs. to as close to 37lbs. as possible in order to ride it on those summer epics and still plop off of anything along the way. So I'm thinking the front end is a good place to start. The bike is completely stock with a Junior T and I was think getting a 130" 66 VF cuz' they're half price at the moment. Would having a 6 x 7 be a bad idea? Would the handling on the down hills be funky?
 

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lidless ascender
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You won't have any problems running a 6" fork in front.The problem is, the 66 isn't much lighter than the Junior T.66SL, Fox 36 Vanilla or Talas would be better choices if you're looking to lighten your bike.
Other places to save some weight would be tires/tubes, crankset/BB, saddle, seatpost, hubs, rims.

Marko
 

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problematiks said:
You won't have any problems running a 6" fork in front.The problem is, the 66 isn't much lighter than the Junior T.66SL, Fox 36 Vanilla or Talas would be better choices if you're looking to lighten your bike.
Other places to save some weight would be tires/tubes, crankset/BB, saddle, seatpost, hubs, rims.

Marko
Yeah I was checking the marzocchi site and it wasn't real specific about the wieghts of each fork. The SL is a good call and so are the Fox offerings... but I'm not sure I want to pay almost a grand for a fork. Your advice about wheel set ups is spot on. I've been running Stans on my XC rig and have several buds running it on their big hit pigs with no worries. My experience with using lighter grade cranks/BBs has been dicey. They don't work so well for free riding. I actually twisted the splines on the BB making crank removal only possible with a hammer. Thanks again for the advice on the fork.
 

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lidless ascender
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Well, if you're not in a hurry and don't want to spend too much on the fork, it might be worth waiting untill the end of 2006 when Rock Shox releases its singlecrown freeride offering.It should be more reasonably priced than the Fox or Marzocchi.
As far as the cranksets go, the options surely depend on your weight, smoothness and the level of abuse they receive, but from my eperience the new outboard bearing offerings from Shimano (XT, LX/Hone) should be plenty tough if you're not over 200lbs and doing 20ft drops.And you can lose up to a pound in the process.
But I understand your scepticism about this if you've had problems in that area in the past.

Marko
 

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problematiks said:
Well, if you're not in a hurry and don't want to spend too much on the fork, it might be worth waiting untill the end of 2006 when Rock Shox releases its singlecrown freeride offering.It should be more reasonably priced than the Fox or Marzocchi.
As far as the cranksets go, the options surely depend on your weight, smoothness and the level of abuse they receive, but from my eperience the new outboard bearing offerings from Shimano (XT, LX/Hone) should be plenty tough if you're not over 200lbs and doing 20ft drops.And you can lose up to a pound in the process.
But I understand your scepticism about this if you've had problems in that area in the past.

Marko
sell the Stinky buy a coiler...just an idea.put it on Ebay sell or part ex, i bet you get a deal..
 

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I'm about to embark on the same thing....

I've got an older 6" Stinky that weighs approx. 45 lbs. and I'm going to move my DH components to a new frame and make my Stinky my FR lite bike (think Coiler).

As others have said, you could just sell the Stinky and get a Coiler since that sounds more what you're looking for, but here are some of the things I'll be doing to my rig over the next couple of months to drop weight.

- Wheels and Tires - I've got heavy DH wheels and tires - Atom Lab trail pimps and Maxxis 2.7 DH casings. Combined with the hubs and rotors, my wheelset alone weighs 18 lbs.!! I'm going to move towards something more "All Mountain" friendly. Don't forget that rotating weight has a much bigger difference than static weight when riding. Realistically, I could lose 5+ lbs. here. A lighter wheelset will have the single biggest effect on the pedalability of your bike.

- Fork - I've got a 66 RC on the front that I'll either sell or transfer to my new bike. I'm looking at putting a Fox 36 TALAS, 36 Vanilla (either would be a bro deal) on the Stinky or might just save some money and pick up a Sherman Firefly plus off of Jenson for cheap. Another option is the 66 SL. FR worthy and light - on par with the Fox in weight. Again, a new product so there could be glitches with the first production run.....

- Shock - I've got a Pushed Vanilla RC and will probably just stay with this until the DHX airs come down in price and they show that they're reliable. I'm not keen to jump on new products until they're proven and I've heard stories of these locking down similar to the RP3's. Of course, a Manitou 4 way air would work as well and has been out for a while.

I'll probably swap out my stem and bars (RF diabolus) for something lighter, but the rest of the components will likely stay on the Stinky since I'd prefer the parts that stay on there are burly enough to take abuse and my dumb mistakes when I crash.

Chers,
EBX
 

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i heart singletrack
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wow... others have been thinking about this too.

i've recently thought about many of the same mods you guys are talking about for my '04 stinky dl. i'm actually thinking about putting a maverick duc32 on the front, spaced for a 29-inch wheel -- so the bike would be a "96er". According to my calculations on total fork/wheel height, the headtube angle will be about 1/2 degree steeper than it curently is (good with the 'niner wheel), and it'd drop an easy three-four pounds in the process.

other target areas for weight loss will be the rear wheel, cassette, bar/stem, tires, saddle, seatpost and crank/bb (going to go with a new-school xt, which is strong enough for my 160lbs to drop off stuff).
 

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try just the stupid stuff, like carbon spacers and lighter bars. also your tires. I just bought a lot lighter of components for my P.1 cr-mo. it went from 29 pounds to like 25 pounds. but I didnt invest that much into it. I might get a pike for it, that would take off the stance static thats on there right now, and bring my bike to like 23 pounds :eek: so look around, there is some cheap yet strong stuff out there. my suggestion is to look into your bars and stem, tires and wheelset. a 130-170 fork is going to weigh about the same all the time, just stay with your jr.t
 

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mgersib said:
i've recently thought about many of the same mods you guys are talking about for my '04 stinky dl. i'm actually thinking about putting a maverick duc32 on the front, spaced for a 29-inch wheel -- so the bike would be a "96er". According to my calculations on total fork/wheel height, the headtube angle will be about 1/2 degree steeper than it curently is (good with the 'niner wheel), and it'd drop an easy three-four pounds in the process.

other target areas for weight loss will be the rear wheel, cassette, bar/stem, tires, saddle, seatpost and crank/bb (going to go with a new-school xt, which is strong enough for my 160lbs to drop off stuff).
Your target areas for weight loss are good, but I`m not so keen on the DUC32/29" wheel combo.
I`m not really sure the DUC32 is strong enough for drop off stuff (and the damping is nothing to write home about, especially at that price).And a 29" wheel will not be as strong as a 26" one (smaller wheel=stronger wheel)

Marko
 

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problematiks said:
Your target areas for weight loss are good, but I`m not so keen on the DUC32/29" wheel combo.
I`m not really sure the DUC32 is strong enough for drop off stuff (and the damping is nothing to write home about, especially at that price).And a 29" wheel will not be as strong as a 26" one (smaller wheel=stronger wheel)

Marko
Keep in mind -- I'm a Maverick fork owner, and I know how to tune suspension. Marko, have you owned/tuned DUCs first-hand, or are you spouting someone elses bull****?

We're talking about using the Stinky as a trailbike that can still handle drops, and in this role, my opinion is that the DUC would be totally appropriate. I suppose those averse to tuning their DUCS (which virtually anyone with basic suspension knowledge can do) might not be able to get the damping exactly where they want it to be.

I guarantee the DUC would be a significant step-up in damping performance from the Jr. T. It would also drop more than three pounds from the weight of the bike (compared to the Jr. T -- does that stand for "Tank"?)... Three pounds is pretty significant weight savings to me -- how 'bout you?

And on the subject of wheel strength -- get a freaking clue. A well-built 'niner wheel might be a little flexier, but not objectionably so, and from my (somewhat extensive) first-hand experience, it'll be strong enough.

Where's your imagination Marko?
 

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mgersib said:
Keep in mind -- I'm a Maverick fork owner, and I know how to tune suspension. Marko, have you owned/tuned DUCs first-hand, or are you spouting someone elses bull****?

We're talking about using the Stinky as a trailbike that can still handle drops, and in this role, my opinion is that the DUC would be totally appropriate. I suppose those averse to tuning their DUCS (which virtually anyone with basic suspension knowledge can do) might not be able to get the damping exactly where they want it to be.

I guarantee the DUC would be a significant step-up in damping performance from the Jr. T. It would also drop more than three pounds from the weight of the bike (compared to the Jr. T -- does that stand for "Tank"?)... Three pounds is pretty significant weight savings to me -- how 'bout you?

And on the subject of wheel strength -- get a freaking clue. A well-built 'niner wheel might be a little flexier, but not objectionably so, and from my (somewhat extensive) first-hand experience, it'll be strong enough.

Where's your imagination Marko?
OK, if you compare the DUC`s damping to the Jr T`s, I totally agree with you :) And there`s no other fork that`s so sturdy/stiff at that weight.I guess it all depends on the level of abuse the fork will see.
As far as the wheels go, I`m a bike mechanic (besides being a bike shop owner), so you could say a have at least basic qualifications for addressing this issue :) I just have doubts about a 29" wheel for freeriding (can you get a strong enough rim in that size?).But if you think it will hold up, go for it.
Anyway, I`m also in the process of transforming my Stinky into a lighter bike (still a freeride bike, but a bit more willing to go up ;) ), so I`ve done some research on this matter.It`s a bit under 41lbs right now, but with a few sensible upgrades (fork, shock?, wheelset, crankset, seatpost) I can get it to about 36lbs.Even lighter if I went into it with a "money is no object" attitude (but I won`t take that path ;) ).

Marko
 

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I ordered a lighter fork.

I've got the 66 off the bike right now for a little work ;) and ordered the Sherman Flick from Jenson. Beyond saving 1.6 lbs., it'll be waaaaay shorter than the 66 and should make the bike handle better for All mountain stuff.

I'll be interested to hear about the Maverick fork / 29" wheel combo. Sounds like a crazy combo, but what the hell?

Next up for me, some lighter wheels and tires (not 600g tires, mind you, but something more like 900-1,000g). Then, the bigger wheels will go on the DH bike.

EB
 

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I too am thinking of building up a Stinky using the same Flick + fork or a Firefly mostly cause they are fairly cheap, also considering a Pike . has anyone here actually used a 140-150 mm travel fork on a 7" Stinky. Anyone know the actual weight of a Stinky frame? Is it possible to make this a "freeride light " bike?
 

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problematiks said:
OK, if you compare the DUC`s damping to the Jr T`s, I totally agree with you :) And there`s no other fork that`s so sturdy/stiff at that weight.I guess it all depends on the level of abuse the fork will see.
As far as the wheels go, I`m a bike mechanic (besides being a bike shop owner), so you could say a have at least basic qualifications for addressing this issue :) I just have doubts about a 29" wheel for freeriding (can you get a strong enough rim in that size?).But if you think it will hold up, go for it.

Marko
Thanks Marko -- I re-read my original post, and realized I might have come off a little strongly with my opinions. Sorry about that, but I agree with what you're saying both on the abusability of the DUC (which isn't nearly as high as the Jr. T, admittedly -- you give to get on that one), and also on the ability to build strong 29-inch wheels.

Due to the cost involved in such an experiment, I may never find out how that Freeride 96er rides, but if come cash falls into my lap, perhps I'll pick it back up (or just have a custom bike made).

Currently, I'm thinking about trying out one of the Manitou Travis 150 single crowns on the front with a lighter wheelset... and of course the bar/stem, seatpost/saddle, crank/bb changes that have been noted as well. i tend to agree that 35lbs is a good target to shoot for. i can pedal 35lbs uphill to have the benefits of the travel going down...

cheers,
mg
 

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mgersib said:
Thanks Marko -- I re-read my original post, and realized I might have come off a little strongly with my opinions. Sorry about that, but I agree with what you're saying both on the abusability of the DUC (which isn't nearly as high as the Jr. T, admittedly -- you give to get on that one), and also on the ability to build strong 29-inch wheels.

Due to the cost involved in such an experiment, I may never find out how that Freeride 96er rides, but if come cash falls into my lap, perhps I'll pick it back up (or just have a custom bike made).

Currently, I'm thinking about trying out one of the Manitou Travis 150 single crowns on the front with a lighter wheelset... and of course the bar/stem, seatpost/saddle, crank/bb changes that have been noted as well. i tend to agree that 35lbs is a good target to shoot for. i can pedal 35lbs uphill to have the benefits of the travel going down...

cheers,
mg
I belive you can convert your 66 to 150mm( i did with mine) improved cornering was the main improvment.
 

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mzungo said:
I belive you can convert your 66 to 150mm( i did with mine) improved cornering was the main improvment.
That's correct, but it's a tall fork if it's the '05 model - even in 150 mode. A buddy has the same fork on his Coiler Primo and he's actually going to get a 6" fork with an eta function (Z1 or similar) for extended climbs and slap the 66 back on for FR/DH stuff.

The '06's are shorter in their A2C so they should be a bit more versatile overall.

Cheers,
EBX
 

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MqtRider said:
And I still may drop a little this year, going to a 36 Vanilla, DT Swiss wheelset, carbon bars, and Saint Cranks. Will post a pic later this summer when it's done.
Nice setup!! Doesn't look like much is stock on that rig. 35-37 lbs. is what I'll be shooting for with my stinky "build down". What fork do you have on there now....a Firefly? Curious how it's worked for you? I've got a Flick Plus that'll be here today and will replace the 66 which will go on the new DH bike.

BTW, only thing I'd consider avoiding with the new parts are carbon bars. A buddy had some monkeylites snap off on him when he nicked a tree on a ride. Granted, they were older bars, but they hadn't given any indication that they were about to go. That's the only downside to carbon whereas aluminum will at least bend first. Just not something I want in the back of my head doing big drops, gaps, etc.

EB
 

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Just a comparison.

So, the Flick should make the Stinky ride much better as a burly trail bike than the ultra tall 170mm 66. Not to mention the ability to drop the travel for extended climbs. THAT was the killer when riding that bike up hills.

Also, worth noting is that the Sherman is standing taller because the dropouts have the rebound underneath it, so in reality the 66 is probably 2" taller A2C.

Check out the comparison side by side.

EB
 

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