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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm in the process of purchasing a new fork for my 2010 hardrock. The factory fork has 80mm of travel and I know going to 100mm will void the warrenty. I would like to find another fork that is also 80mm. I have been looking at the Rockshox Tora's and I see a few of them are adjustable 80/100/120. My question is when you set the adjustment to 80mm, does it actually compress the fork down to a smaller measurment, matching my current 80mm setup? I don't reaaly want to change the geometry of the bike either by going with a 100mm.
 

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From what I understand, going to more travel will alter the geometry no matter how slight. This will also cause excess stress on the head tube and MAY cause it to fail at the weld.

Some say that you can increase to the next step up at max (80mm to 100mm or 100mm to 120mm)

I'd get a hold of the manufacturer and see what they recommend. They have engineers for that reason.
 

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berry79 said:
I'm in the process of purchasing a new fork for my 2010 hardrock. The factory fork has 80mm of travel and I know going to 100mm will void the warrenty. I would like to find another fork that is also 80mm. I have been looking at the Rockshox Tora's and I see a few of them are adjustable 80/100/120. My question is when you set the adjustment to 80mm, does it actually compress the fork down to a smaller measurment, matching my current 80mm setup? I don't reaaly want to change the geometry of the bike either by going with a 100mm.
I am only familiar with adjustable forks in the way Fox, RockShox and Marzocchi do it. When my fork is set from 140 to 100 mm for example it goes from having approx 140 to 100 mm and the head tube of the bike is correspondingly lower.

It would seem to me that replacing the fork on a new bike means you may have bought the wrong bike. A decent adjustable fork will probably cost more than the bike is worth and I'm not sure you want the bike equivalent of the Honda Civic with wheels and muffler worth more than the car.

There may be nothing wrong with changing the geometry. Go test ride and/or rent different sorts of bikes and it should help you know what you want.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm probably only going to spend around $250. But that's what I wanted to know, if setting the fork on the lower setting will drop the head tube as well.
 

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According to Specialized you can go to 90mm without voiding the warranty. I have a tora 318 coil fork on mine. It is adjustable from 85mm to 135 by turning a knob (U-turn). It is a big improvement over the stock fork.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
safme said:
According to Specialized you can go to 90mm without voiding the warranty. I have a tora 318 coil fork on mine. It is adjustable from 85mm to 135 by turning a knob (U-turn). It is a big improvement over the stock fork.
Thats actually the same one I was looking at. I just wasn't sure if the fork was shorter being set on 85mm vs 100mm, which I now seem to see it is.
 

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The Rock Shox all travel spacers are removable making the different travels you need (80,100,120). This requires taking the fork apart to access them. They usually ship set at 100mm and include a 20mm all travel spacer to set it to 80mm. If you want it to be 80, you need to take the lowers off and take the dampener out, add the spacer, then put the fork back together with the appropriate oil levels. Remove the spacer for 120mm travel. Set at 80mm, it should keep the same geometry as your stock fork.
All Rock Shox forks above the Tora line have all travel spacers UNLESS it has U-turn. With U-turn, you simple just turn an external dial to adjust the travel. Similar to Fox's system.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks Mount Dora Cycles. I am looking at the U-turn version. Is this knob adjustment ment for a one time setting or is this something intended to be changed periodically to help with certain riding conditions?
 

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Like changing channels on an old TV. Not that most people on here are old enough to remember that. I think I spent an hour once looking for my remote when I could have just walked up to the TV and changed channels. But I digress, you can change it at anytime, just remember that fork only goes to 85mm and will slightly throw off the geometry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I think I'm just going to go with the Tora Solo Air and just add the spacer internally and be done with it. Thanks for the help
 

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An adjustable fork gives you some advantages...

You use the shorter setting for climbs. It lowers the front and puts more weight on the front tire so it doesn't pull during climbs.

Use the full extension setting for everything else to give you more compliance.

Of course, you can lock the shock for smooth climbs and road rides.

I have the Fox Talas and I love having the best of both worlds. Drop it down for a climb and pop it up for downhill. It can be an on the fly adjustment and its very effective.
 

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berry79 said:
I think I'm just going to go with the Tora Solo Air and just add the spacer internally and be done with it. Thanks for the help
Words of wisdom. Keep it simple and just enjoy riding. Nice fork for the money too.

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Just when I thought I made up my mind, the 2011 come out. I'm now considering the Tora TK. This one also shows 80/100/120 in the specs. Does anyone know if these adjust by simply disassembling and adding a spacer? The SRAM website doesn't show instruction PDF for this model. Also, being a new fork, if I disassemble to add a spacer, do I need to change the seals? Being new I would think not, but want to make sure. Thanks
 

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berry79 said:
Just when I thought I made up my mind, the 2011 come out. I'm now considering the Tora TK. This one also shows 80/100/120 in the specs. Does anyone know if these adjust by simply disassembling and adding a spacer? The SRAM website doesn't show instruction PDF for this model. Also, being a new fork, if I disassemble to add a spacer, do I need to change the seals? Being new I would think not, but want to make sure. Thanks
I have to assume that it will be in line with the previous forks and be able to be adjusted internally to those lengths. You should be fine in getting one, but I would personally look in the used market, or save some money and get a bike with an entire upgraded component package. Remember, if you buy used, make sure you get a steerer tube that is long enough for your bike. Measure your fork from the top of the crown (where the headset race sits) to the top cap of the headset. Any fork you buy used must be at minimum that length; if you have headset spacers under your stem, you have that amount of height to lower the stem, but it's not ideal. It can be longer than your current steerer tube, but not shorter.
 
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