Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner
1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
340 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My On One 456 Summer season frame arrives tommorrow. I am looking for a component kit that is both low cost and durable. Low weight does not mean that much to me, but I am hard on my bikes and gear. I see tat Jenson has a Shimano LX build kit for $500. What do you gain by moving up to more expensive components... Is it just weight or do you gain durability as well?

The bike will be my go to trail and AM bike. I am slow, but love obstacles. Looking for advice on component selection also, such as 3 ring vs. 2 ring crankset, long cage vs. short cage derailler, etc....

Thanks for any advice you can give. I do not have a preference SRAM vs. Shimano, so offer all opinions.

Thanks,

John
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
354 Posts
better components last longer and are usually lighter,
short cage vs. long- short cage is only good for single ring, med cage is ok for 2 ring, long works with up to 3 rings.
2 or 3 ring? depends if you live in wide open area or tighter slower trails, 22-36 is good most of the time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,644 Posts
Check out the Shimano SLX group with the two ring + bash guard crank and medium cage rear deraileur. Personally I think this is a great match for the Summer Session frame.

Have fun with the build.

TG
 

·
Bicyclochondriac.
Joined
·
15,226 Posts
jscusmcvet said:
What do you gain by moving up to more expensive components... Is it just weight or do you gain durability as well?
The answer to this varies greatly depending on what you are talking about (component, brand, models). It could be function, durability, weight, or some combination of these three. Sometimes the difference is great, sometimes very small. In some cases you gain nothing, it's just more expensive.

To answer some of your other questions, I would go with 2 ring for an "AM" bike. A med cage der will certainly work, but I would go with a short cage myself, even if I lose the small/small combo (though I did not lose any combo's on mine)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
340 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So if I were to do a side by side, song term test of the Shimano xtr and the Shimano lx, what would be the difference on the trail? Not being a smart a$$, just don't know.

John
 

·
Bicyclochondriac.
Joined
·
15,226 Posts
jscusmcvet said:
So if I were to do a side by side, song term test of the Shimano xtr and the Shimano lx, what would be the difference on the trail? Not being a smart a$$, just don't know.

John
I think you will get better answers to this by asking about the individual components: Shifters, derailleurs, brakes, hubs, cranks, cassette....

You can probably find the answers to each of these on the appropriate boards of by searching.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,644 Posts
jscusmcvet said:
So if I were to do a side by side, song term test of the Shimano xtr and the Shimano lx, what would be the difference on the trail? Not being a smart a$$, just don't know.
If you have a good LBS I would consult with them. While building up a bike is not rocket science, there are enough things that can go wrong and cost you extra money.

More expensive is usually going to be lighter, crisper shifting, better made, nicer materials.

Judging by the frame you purchased I still think the Shimano SLX is the way to go. That frame is meant to take a lot of abuse. SLX is Shimano's less expensive AM group.

Try to spend a few more bucks now and get what you want now instead of replacing it a few months from now. Personally I think suspension (fork) and wheels are a good place to spend money while saving money in other parts.

There is a ton of info on this site. Spend as much time researching as you can.

Don't forget about the wheels!

TG
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,295 Posts
Shifters & Derailleurs: I have an XT and an X9 RD. Cannot tell much of a difference with either. I also have SRAM Attack shifters on the XT and I have X9 shifters with the X9 RD. I can't tell much of a difference between the two and the X9 is supposed to be higher quality.

What I could tell the difference between was running full length housing, jagwire ripcord with teflon cables. Makes a world of difference.

Cranksets: I have not used anything above LX so I can't comment on how they compare but I will say that I don't get much flex out of my lx M582. You can get them on ebay for about $75 shipped. If that saves you enough money to make it attractive, good.

Fork & Wheels: This is where I choose to spend more money. Focus on getting the best you can afford with these. Shifters and Derailleurs, hell - even cranks, can be upgraded down the road but upgrading a fork & wheels costs a whole lot more to do.

Have fun with your build.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
340 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I have put together a build list on Price Point using SRAM x7 deraillers and shifters, a race face crankset and Shimano XT wheelset. Lso included an mid rise bar. Have not pulled the trigger on that one yet, but will review tonight and go that way if it all still seems right. I have some bontrager 2.2 tires in the garage and ordered a stem, seatpost and seatpost clamp from On one. All told hitting me for less than $600. That gives me this bike built up with the Recon 351 fork for less than $800. Still considering backing up and going with a 2x9 crankset or even 1x9. The only thing stopping me from the 1x9 is trips to the mountains when I fear I will be missing that granny gear.

I chose the Sram x7 grip shifters instead of the triggers just to try something different. Thoughts?

Thanks for all the advice. Keep it coming, as I have not made this order yet (except for the On One seatpost, clamp and stem) Feel free to critique my current selections.

John
 

·
Bicyclochondriac.
Joined
·
15,226 Posts
jscusmcvet said:
I have put together a build list on Price Point using SRAM x7 deraillers and shifters, a race face crankset and Shimano XT wheelset. Lso included an mid rise bar. Have not pulled the trigger on that one yet, but will review tonight and go that way if it all still seems right. I have some bontrager 2.2 tires in the garage and ordered a stem, seatpost and seatpost clamp from On one. All told hitting me for less than $600. That gives me this bike built up with the Recon 351 fork for less than $800. Still considering backing up and going with a 2x9 crankset or even 1x9. The only thing stopping me from the 1x9 is trips to the mountains when I fear I will be missing that granny gear.

I chose the Sram x7 grip shifters instead of the triggers just to try something different. Thoughts?

Thanks for all the advice. Keep it coming, as I have not made this order yet (except for the On One seatpost, clamp and stem) Feel free to critique my current selections.

John
Sounds like a very smart build:thumbsup: I think in that price range, x-7 is the way to go. What are you doing for brakes?

If you have hesitations about going 1x9, I would not do it. I have it on one of my bikes, but I personally would not want to be limited were it my only one. It works for me on the HT, but I live in the mountains, and on the FS I would really miss the granny sometimes on long steep climbs when I need to pace myself, and standing is not very efficient.

In terms of double vs triple crank, you can always change the triple to a double down the road (just replace the big ring with a bash), but for me, 2x9 makes a lot more sense for trail riding. I seldom ever spin out in my 32t ring (just a couple of fire roads, and I really don't care), and with a 36t I doubt it would ever happen on anything but pavement. I much prefer the extra clearance and ease of setup of 2 rings + bashguard.

Regarding gripshifters, I am a huge fan of them. The ergonomics are personal preference, but in terms of function and durability, I think they are hard to beat in that price range and there is not a whole lot of difference between the high and low end. I have an old 7.0 shifter (not x-7, but ~2000 7.0) pushing an x-9 RD. I've tried newer, higher end trigger and gripshifters and I don't really see any improvement in shifting performance over the older twisties. Remember to get grips that are shorter to accommodate the gripshifters.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
340 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
mnigro said:
how much is the raceface crankset? BB7 and LX Cranks can be had from Jenson for about $190 all-in.
I am reworking the crankset and BB because the On one requires a 68 "English thread" bottom bracket, which did not come with the race face combo I had selected. I am sticking with the rest of this build, just have to make this adjustment.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
340 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
kapusta said:
Sounds like a very smart build:thumbsup: I think in that price range, x-7 is the way to go. What are you doing for brakes?

If you have hesitations about going 1x9, I would not do it. I have it on one of my bikes, but I personally would not want to be limited were it my only one. It works for me on the HT, but I live in the mountains, and on the FS I would really miss the granny sometimes on long steep climbs when I need to pace myself, and standing is not very efficient.

In terms of double vs triple crank, you can always change the triple to a double down the road (just replace the big ring with a bash), but for me, 2x9 makes a lot more sense for trail riding. I seldom ever spin out in my 32t ring (just a couple of fire roads, and I really don't care), and with a 36t I doubt it would ever happen on anything but pavement. I much prefer the extra clearance and ease of setup of 2 rings + bashguard.

Regarding gripshifters, I am a huge fan of them. The ergonomics are personal preference, but in terms of function and durability, I think they are hard to beat in that price range and there is not a whole lot of difference between the high and low end. I have an old 7.0 shifter (not x-7, but ~2000 7.0) pushing an x-9 RD. I've tried newer, higher end trigger and gripshifters and I don't really see any improvement in shifting performance over the older twisties. Remember to get grips that are shorter to accommodate the gripshifters.
Brakes are Avid BB5 mechanical. I have one already laying around the shop and that is what I have currently on my GT and I find them to work fine and are easy to work on. The reason for grip shifts is that I too often hit my trigger shifters accidentally, so thought this might be a cure. Since I am not a racer, the speed that comes with the trigger shift is just not that important to me. Or so I think at this moment;) .

Plan on making this order when I get home tonight. By the way, even though I am bought the on one frame used, the folks over on the other side of the pond have been great to answer email questions. So far so good.

John
 

·
Bicyclochondriac.
Joined
·
15,226 Posts
jscusmcvet said:
Since I am not a racer, the speed that comes with the trigger shift is just not that important to me. Or so I think at this moment;) .
I find gripshifters just as fast if not faster, anyway.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
340 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Frame and fork arrived today... Nice. Great welds, lighter than expected and the fork is the same... Recon 351air spring... suuuuweeeeet...

Will report on my build as I get it rolling... so to speak:)
 

·
You wanna go ridin?
Joined
·
297 Posts
jscusmcvet said:
Frame and fork arrived today... Nice. Great welds, lighter than expected and the fork is the same... Recon 351air spring... suuuuweeeeet...

Will report on my build as I get it rolling... so to speak:)
Cool. I think you've made some good choices. I think the LX or SLX would be great crankset choices. I almost went a bidding on that one. Glad I didn't and have fun with the build and as always pics would be most excellent.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,295 Posts
I'd look at ebay first then. There are 2 or 3 guys that almost always have the LX 581/582 for a good price. I got mine from Abaxo but RockyMountainCycles has a few on there as well. I think I paid about $75 with shipping.
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top