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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello all, there have been questions as to complete stock fat bike weights, and since i have about everything i might as well put in some time for the community and get some statistics.

I weighed everything without pedals, and with the steer tubes uncut and uncapped, since this is how we sell them, and then cap them after it's bought for custom fitting. So some of the smaller sizes would drop some weight after a few inches of steel tube is removed for sure.

For right now, here is some Pugsley & Moonlander weights, i have a few more of the Necro's to build wednesday and some Mukluks to weigh also, so i'll weigh those then and edit this post at that point. So here is the data so far, to be updated soon. I would not factor weights this small into your purchase decision, there are other factors that make a bigger difference,and i have even seen single tubes vary by 100grams which would effect this, but people wanted to know what ball park these things were in, so here we are.

16" Pugsley = 36.02
18" Pugsley = 36.74
20" Pugsley = 37.02

16" Moonlander = 35.54
18" Moonlander = 35.76
20" Moonlander = 35.88
22" Moonlander = 36.30

21" Mukluk 2 = 33.32

21" Mukluk 3 = 36.88
17" Mukluk 3 = 36.48
 

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IIRC, my size small Mukluk 1 weighed in around 35 or so lbs, including pedals. In case anyone cares about the weight of a bike Salsa no longer makes! :D
 

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17" Muk2 = 33.06 (wheels w/skewers: 9.44 r, 7.75 f)

15" Muk3 = 36.06 (10.14 r, 8.50 f)

I should have a chance to weigh a x-small muk2 soon...
 

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Thanks.
Wow. 3.5 pound difference from a Muk 2 to a Muk 3. Well worth the extra $400.
 

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I should have a chance to weigh a x-small muk2 soon...[/QUOTE said:
I'll be interested in hearing an accurate weight. My "bathroom" scale has my XS Mukluk 2 at 33 pounds.
 

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I just know that they're kinda heavy, and that I need to work a bit more at pedaling them through the woods and snow and sand.

I tend to go a little slower and look around more, and I tend to go over "that way" more often.

I have fun riding it at a time of year when I wouldn't typically be riding a bike.

Often I find myself giggling as I ride along.

Aside from wanting to reduce some rotating weight in rims, tires, and tubes - that's good enough.
 

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-bustin punks
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I have my Muk 3 (17") down to 32.4 lbs (weighed minus pedals so it matches the OP's data) without spending too much $, and still with some low hanging fruit (stock tires and tubes, HG61 12-36 cassette). Most weights from the same often-calibrated digital scale at my office. My Stock Mukluk 3 was also 36.5 lbs on my Ultimate digital hanging scale (sans pedals).

Heavy stuff remaining:
Stock 27 tpi Larry 1610 grams (Ultimate hanging scale)
Stock 27 tpi Endo 1630 grams (Ultimate hanging scale)
Surly Lite Toobs: 380g and 390g
HG61 cassette (12-36) 419 grams (same as on weightweenies.com)
BB5 brakes, cables and levers

The Kalloy 410 seatpost was/is 270 grams, lighter than a Thomson Elite at the same length. I may be able to run a 350.

Wheels: -452 grams, .996 lbs
Self drilled Darryls - 1/38" holes, relocated valve stem

Crank replacement : -521.2 g, 1.15 lbs
stock w/BB :1455 grams - DANG!
Bonty Select arms, FSA ISIS BB, Niner 32t ring + bolts = 933.8 grams

Handlebar: -191.7g, 0.42 lbs
stock Salsa Bend 3: 340.0g
Salsa ProMoto Carbon riser: 148.3g

1x9 Conversion (lose the front shifter, cable, housing and derailleur/mount) -330g, 0.73 lbs

Saddle -130.6 grams, 0.29 lb
Stock WTB: 350.6 grams
WTB Rocket V Stealth Ti: 220.0 grams

Brake Levers: -43.8 grams, 0.1 lbs
Stock Tektro: 234.4 grams
Avid SD 1.9L: 190.6 grams

I've added a few grams here and there
Stem: +36.0 grams, .08 lbs
Stock Salsa: 159.1
Thomson Elite: 195.1

Seat Collar: +13.2g, .03 lbs
Stock Salsa LipLock: 30.9 grams
Salsa FlipLock: 44.1 grams

Obviously with some of the Huskers in the 1300 gram range, and some cheap DH tubes, there's some room, and a XTR 960 or 970 11-34 cassette (around 250 g) would knock another 170 grams (.37 lbs) off. SRAM 980 11-34 cassettes are cheaper and still 120g under the HG61 that came on my stock build.

It doesn't get super cold here, so as/if cash allows I'd love to run some XT 785 hydraulics on it.

Anyway, hope this helps some of you.
 

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Did you ever weigh the Necro Pugs? I would be interested in seeing the difference between those and the standard Pug. Thanks!
 

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Mukluk Brake Weight (med)

In case you were pondering the switch to hydros to save a few grams...

Weights shown are with the stock IS adapters and all stock bolts...

Front Setup: 399.0 grams (stock 800mm housing length)
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/rmplum/6981895915/" title="Front brake complete by rmplum, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7047/6981895915_8c25629a9b_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="Front brake complete"></a>

Rear Setup: 471.6 grams (stock 1735mm housing length)
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/rmplum/6981895861/" title="Rear brake complete by rmplum, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7204/6981895861_3cea7ca374_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="Rear brake complete"></a>
 

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Average stock weight for a 18 Al Fatback Deluxe build is 30.5
Of course does not include pedals. Tends to vary with the tire weights being somewhat inconsistent
 

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My sandman hoggar new around 14.8 kg, 32.6 lbs if I'm not mistaken. Size Large

Changed the tubes and sadle, added pedal and bottle cages and now around14 kg.

If I would change to XC/ weightweenie parts I guess the bike looses easely 2 more kg's, but that would result in a no longer bulletproof bike!
 

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I'm down to 31.6 (sans pedals) on my medium Muk3 with pretty minimal investment (I did splurge for new brakes, which cut about 200 grams from the stock BB5 system) - using stuff I already had or selling the new stuff and buying a cheaper lighter replacement. And this is still using the stock 27tpi tires, which were (are) over 1600 grams each.

Riding a 32 lb bike around is a bit more fun that the 37 lb stock build.

The coolest part is that my spreadsheet matches what the scale says (the only thing I haven't weighed separately yet are the fork, frame and headset).
 

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I did a little pruning on my 907 at the weekend. The Alfine has been replaced by a 2x9 XT setup and the Endo/Larry combo by a pair of Husker Dus. All up weight (with rack and mudguard) has dropped by a full 2 pounds and now stands at a smidgeon over 34 lbs.
 

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I did a little pruning on my 907 at the weekend. The Alfine has been replaced by a 2x9 XT setup and the Endo/Larry combo by a pair of Husker Dus. All up weight (with rack and mudguard) has dropped by a full 2 pounds and now stands at a smidgeon over 34 lbs.
Could you share some thoughts on the drivetrain switch aside from weight? Or was weight the primary motivation? (which would make sense given the context here)
 

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Drew - I was convinced at the outset that the Alfine was the best solution for weatherproofness :) Hence the 135mm frame and offset wheel. However, I've found that the tarction afforded by the fat rear tyre is so good that I want to climb things beyond the lower limit of the Alfine gearing, I looked at alternative approaches, which would have meant a very special and pricy 30T sprocket and breaking Shimanos recommended gearing restrictions.

I have therefore decided to try 2x9, with the shorter (i.e. not long) cage mech to see how that works out. I've not had a chance to ride it yet and the one down-side I've already spotted is that the chain is precariously close to the tyre wall with the Rolling Daryl rim and Endomorph. There is a bit more room with the Husker Du and the potential to adjust the chainline a couple of mm id the need arises.
 
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