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Discussion Starter #1
Im looking to swap out my busted marzichotti on my SX trail with one of the new 160mm Fox models. Ive been doin some research and noticed some are spring others are air, whats the big pros and cons of each? Thanks in advance!
 

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holding back the darkness
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Coils are more "plush", more linear... Meaning that the amount of force required to compress the coil spring is relatively constant throughout the entire stroke. Many people feel that coil sprung forks are plusher, smoother, than air forks. Coil springs preload is either adjustable by turning some sort of screw and adding preload, or swapping for a stiffer or softer spring.

Air Springs are said to be more progressive, that is that the deeper into the travel you get the more force it takes to compress it further. Sometimes this can mean that for the first half of travel the fork feels pretty smooth, but it takes more force to compress it further in the travel so the bottom end can be more harsh. Air springs also need to be air-tight, and so have additional seals. More seals= more friction. Air springs are significantly lighter than coil springs. Air springs are preload adjustable based on the amount of air you put in and can be dialed in to a tighter tolerance than a coil spring.

If you are leaning toward an adjustable travel fork (I would caution you against, FWIW) not all manufacturers offer travel adjust in coil and air sprung versions. Fox for example, only has air-sprung TA forks....

Generally... if you don't mind a little extra weight and you fit into an "average" cyclist's weight class (say... 150-225lbs) then a coil is probably better (IMHO).
If you're a weight weenie just go get an air fork and never complain about how the fork works ever again.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
WOW thanks for all the info, super helpful. I just bought the 2010 Fox 36 Van RC2 Fit Fork can't wait. Would you suggest having a shop install the fork or is that something capable of me doing myself?
 

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mtb
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t-sixtyfive said:
WOW thanks for all the info, super helpful. I just bought the 2010 Fox 36 Van RC2 Fit Fork can't wait. Would you suggest having a shop install the fork or is that something capable of me doing myself?
Diy and learn.
 

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wuss
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Subliminalshiver is pretty spot on. Air suspension has been getting better, but it still has a tendancy to either stay pretty deep in it's travel (air spring ramps up, and to be sensitive in the beginning and use up all travel it also means it uses up the first 50% very easily). Coil can stay sensitive, stay pretty high in it's travel and still use it up. With coil you'll control bottoming out hydrolically with oil rather then have the air spring do it (without a lot of control).

Changing the fork is pretty simple. Be carefull when cutting the steerer tube, you can't undo it if you make it too short. Be carefull not to do damage to the old crown when removing the headset race and to not damage the race when putting it on the new fork.
 

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t-sixtyfive said:
WOW thanks for all the info, super helpful. I just bought the 2010 Fox 36 Van RC2 Fit Fork can't wait. Would you suggest having a shop install the fork or is that something capable of me doing myself?
How much did you pay? Pricepoint.com is selling the exact fork for $750.
 

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Bad Case of the Mondays
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t-sixtyfive said:
Would you suggest having a shop install the fork or is that something capable of me doing myself?
If you've never done something like this before, I would highly recommend you take it to a shop to do. See if they will let you watch them do it, you can learn a lot by seeing it done.

The others are correct, it isn't a huge job but the consequences for cutting to short are pretty severe.
 

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J:
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Take it in

and watch how they measure, and watch how they adjust the headset. You're not going to want to "hope" you got these right.

eurospek said:
How much did you pay? Pricepoint.com is selling the exact fork for $750.
LOADED20 CBO 20% off
 

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meow meow
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DeerhillJDOG said:
and watch how they measure, and watch how they adjust the headset. You're not going to want to "hope" you got these right.



LOADED20 CBO 20% off
theres not much to it. unseat the crown race off your old fork and install it on the new one carefully. then measure your old steerer tube and if you are happy with that length cut the new one the same. finally put in a new star nut. then just reasemble everything as always.
 

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or, put the fork on and dont cut it.. Use spacers---- this way you can adjust your stem a bit higher or lower-- to find the perfect location.. Then once you find it-- you can trim the top off and cap it and Bam-Bobs your uncle, your all good.. :p
 
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