Leave the old pads in. Then spread them apart by putting a flat head screw driver in there and turning it sideways, any strong/flat piece of metal would work though. Once the pads have been pushed back all the way, take them out and put in the new ones.freeriderB said:why is it such a chore when I change my Code pads (2007)?
I back off the red adjuster knob all the way,
take old pads out,
TRY to push the pistons back in...but when I press 1, the other pops out.
So, when I try to slide the new pads in, they get caught up on the piston and it's EXTREMELY difficult getting them to click in.
When I do get them in, the pads squeeze the rotor so tight that the front wheel barely spins.
What the heck am I doing wrong?
I don't think I need a bleed because the modulation feels good....or will a bleed release the pistons and allow for them to retract back into the caliper?
any help is appreciated....
i did this with the red pad spreader...but I guess I couldn't generate enough force.YoPawn said:Leave the old pads in. Then spread them apart by putting a flat head screw driver in there and turning it sideways, any strong/flat piece of metal would work though. Once the pads have been pushed back all the way, take them out and put in the new ones.
Don't do this with the new pads, as it will ruin the surface. It's really the only way to get all 4 pistons in at the same time.
Do this to start, but once you get the new pads in put the spreaders in and pump your brake levers.YoPawn said:Leave the old pads in. Then spread them apart by putting a flat head screw driver in there and turning it sideways, any strong/flat piece of metal would work though. Once the pads have been pushed back all the way, take them out and put in the new ones.
Don't do this with the new pads, as it will ruin the surface. It's really the only way to get all 4 pistons in at the same time.
Usually after one run you're fine. Fahn
avids are not a ***** like that... my elixirs have never had this issue...don't blame the entire avid line..spxoo said:avids are a ***** like that. again try pushing them back with something you can lever on, like a flat head a tire lever anything. Dont pry to hard, watch make sure fluid isnt coming out of the lever
Bleeding it would be a fix, Once the system is open pushing the pads is easy.
Sometimes you can open the bleed valve on the lever, band a paper towel over it. Very gently push the pads out (system is opened) that will push some fluid out, cap it back off and hope you didnt let to much out or let to much air in.
Ive messed with a bunch of techniques to change avid pads and they all suck
Avid brakes are great, I've had Juicy 7 and now Elixir and changing pads takes less than 5 seconds on the Juicy 7's and about 12 secs on the Elixirs. Both take 20 minutes TOPS to bleed front and rear..spxoo said:avids are a ***** like that. again try pushing them back with something you can lever on, like a flat head a tire lever anything. Dont pry to hard, watch make sure fluid isnt coming out of the lever
Bleeding it would be a fix, Once the system is open pushing the pads is easy.
Sometimes you can open the bleed valve on the lever, band a paper towel over it. Very gently push the pads out (system is opened) that will push some fluid out, cap it back off and hope you didnt let to much out or let to much air in.
Ive messed with a bunch of techniques to change avid pads and they all suck
what are you talking about?spxoo said:avids are a ***** like that. again try pushing them back with something you can lever on, like a flat head a tire lever anything. Dont pry to hard, watch make sure fluid isnt coming out of the lever
Bleeding it would be a fix, Once the system is open pushing the pads is easy.
Sometimes you can open the bleed valve on the lever, band a paper towel over it. Very gently push the pads out (system is opened) that will push some fluid out, cap it back off and hope you didnt let to much out or let to much air in.
Ive messed with a bunch of techniques to change avid pads and they all suck
ok...I found an old Intense DH tire lever and was able to press the pistons in nicely.YoPawn said:Leave the old pads in. Then spread them apart by putting a flat head screw driver in there and turning it sideways, any strong/flat piece of metal would work though. Once the pads have been pushed back all the way, take them out and put in the new ones.
Don't do this with the new pads, as it will ruin the surface. It's really the only way to get all 4 pistons in at the same time.
Did you get different pads?freeriderB said:ok...I found an old Intense DH tire lever and was able to press the pistons in nicely.
The wheel spins freely now.
However, it seems that my modulation is really [email protected] now.
When I pull the lever, the pads GRAB the rotor immediately. Feels like OTB possibility.
I played with the red knob and it does it regardless of the lever position.
All the years riding, my brakes never grabbed like this.
So, I plan on doing a quick bleed to see if I can get the modulation back.
Anyone have any other ideas why they would feel this way?
Do you think the bleed will solve this new issue?
I actually put in a pair of used pads that I had lying around.69nites said:Did you get different pads?
That's probably why they grab hard now. The pad is not even with the rotor. Try taking the bike down a hill and bedding them in a bit. If that doesn't work. Buy organic pads.freeriderB said:I actually put in a pair of used pads that I had lying around.
Tons of life left and they are the sintered type (I don't like the organic).
could it be because I cleaned the rotor with alcohol and now it's super clean?YoPawn said:That's probably why they grab hard now. The pad is not even with the rotor. Try taking the bike down a hill and bedding them in a bit. If that doesn't work. Buy organic pads.
if you had a dirty rotor that would easily explain it. If you're used to having to grab the crap out of your lever due to a greasy rotor and then grabbed on a clean rotor with the same force that would absolutely explain what's going on for you.freeriderB said:could it be because I cleaned the rotor with alcohol and now it's super clean?
I'm still going to bleed them, and if they feel the same I'll just burn them up a bit on a couple of runs to see how they feel.
thanks for all the feedback.
uhh not quite...but thanks for the concern...69nites said:if you had a dirty rotor that would easily explain it. If you're used to having to grab the crap out of your lever due to a greasy rotor and then grabbed on a clean rotor with the same force that would absolutely explain what's going on for you.
codes require a light touch. Perhaps it's just a little too much brake for you.
did you read the literature I linked you to from SRAM and see how to properly set up your brakes and see if there's anything you did wrong?freeriderB said:uhh not quite...but thanks for the concern...
this is my 3rd season beatin' the snot out of them.
However, I have only recently been performing my own maintenance on them. I used to let the LBS worry about this stuff....
yes...69nites said:did you read the literature I linked you to from SRAM and see how to properly set up your brakes and see if there's anything you did wrong?
The same thing happened with my Saints when I accidentally let some fluid out (oops), but I used a plastic tire lever to spread the pistons and push them back into their original position. I had to push a lot so I'd imagine that little plastic red thing may not push him back all the way.freeriderB said:i did this with the red pad spreader...but I guess I couldn't generate enough force.
Should I drip some brake fluid on the pistons? or will it just attract dirt and crud?
I'm thinking they need some sort of lubrication no??
