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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
why is it such a chore when I change my Code pads (2007)?

I back off the red adjuster knob all the way,
take old pads out,
TRY to push the pistons back in...but when I press 1, the other pops out.

So, when I try to slide the new pads in, they get caught up on the piston and it's EXTREMELY difficult getting them to click in.

When I do get them in, the pads squeeze the rotor so tight that the front wheel barely spins.

What the heck am I doing wrong?
I don't think I need a bleed because the modulation feels good....or will a bleed release the pistons and allow for them to retract back into the caliper?

any help is appreciated....
 

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freeriderB said:
why is it such a chore when I change my Code pads (2007)?

I back off the red adjuster knob all the way,
take old pads out,
TRY to push the pistons back in...but when I press 1, the other pops out.

So, when I try to slide the new pads in, they get caught up on the piston and it's EXTREMELY difficult getting them to click in.

When I do get them in, the pads squeeze the rotor so tight that the front wheel barely spins.

What the heck am I doing wrong?
I don't think I need a bleed because the modulation feels good....or will a bleed release the pistons and allow for them to retract back into the caliper?

any help is appreciated....
Leave the old pads in. Then spread them apart by putting a flat head screw driver in there and turning it sideways, any strong/flat piece of metal would work though. Once the pads have been pushed back all the way, take them out and put in the new ones.

Don't do this with the new pads, as it will ruin the surface. It's really the only way to get all 4 pistons in at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
old pads

YoPawn said:
Leave the old pads in. Then spread them apart by putting a flat head screw driver in there and turning it sideways, any strong/flat piece of metal would work though. Once the pads have been pushed back all the way, take them out and put in the new ones.

Don't do this with the new pads, as it will ruin the surface. It's really the only way to get all 4 pistons in at the same time.
i did this with the red pad spreader...but I guess I couldn't generate enough force.
Should I drip some brake fluid on the pistons? or will it just attract dirt and crud?
I'm thinking they need some sort of lubrication no??
 

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avids are a ***** like that. again try pushing them back with something you can lever on, like a flat head a tire lever anything. Dont pry to hard, watch make sure fluid isnt coming out of the lever

Bleeding it would be a fix, Once the system is open pushing the pads is easy.

Sometimes you can open the bleed valve on the lever, band a paper towel over it. Very gently push the pads out (system is opened) that will push some fluid out, cap it back off and hope you didnt let to much out or let to much air in.

Ive messed with a bunch of techniques to change avid pads and they all suck
 

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YoPawn said:
Leave the old pads in. Then spread them apart by putting a flat head screw driver in there and turning it sideways, any strong/flat piece of metal would work though. Once the pads have been pushed back all the way, take them out and put in the new ones.

Don't do this with the new pads, as it will ruin the surface. It's really the only way to get all 4 pistons in at the same time.
Do this to start, but once you get the new pads in put the spreaders in and pump your brake levers.

Whatever you do, don't let any fluid out. IDK why people do that cause the smallest amount of air can result in the lever getting soft or coming in closer to the bar.:confused: Usually after one run you're fine. Fahn
 

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percocet pioneer.
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spxoo said:
avids are a ***** like that. again try pushing them back with something you can lever on, like a flat head a tire lever anything. Dont pry to hard, watch make sure fluid isnt coming out of the lever

Bleeding it would be a fix, Once the system is open pushing the pads is easy.

Sometimes you can open the bleed valve on the lever, band a paper towel over it. Very gently push the pads out (system is opened) that will push some fluid out, cap it back off and hope you didnt let to much out or let to much air in.

Ive messed with a bunch of techniques to change avid pads and they all suck
avids are not a ***** like that... my elixirs have never had this issue...don't blame the entire avid line..:confused:
 

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Meh.
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It is fine to open the bleed port on the lever and push the pistons back in. Any fluid that comes out is excess fluid. No air will be drawn in unless the lever is squeezed. Even if a small amount of air is drawn in, it will sit in the reservoir where it will not make the brake squishy or inoperable.

Changing pads (Avid or not) is not difficult. Yes, it does require some wiggling. It has never taken me more than a couple minutes.
 

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moaaar shimz
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spxoo said:
avids are a ***** like that. again try pushing them back with something you can lever on, like a flat head a tire lever anything. Dont pry to hard, watch make sure fluid isnt coming out of the lever

Bleeding it would be a fix, Once the system is open pushing the pads is easy.

Sometimes you can open the bleed valve on the lever, band a paper towel over it. Very gently push the pads out (system is opened) that will push some fluid out, cap it back off and hope you didnt let to much out or let to much air in.

Ive messed with a bunch of techniques to change avid pads and they all suck
Avid brakes are great, I've had Juicy 7 and now Elixir and changing pads takes less than 5 seconds on the Juicy 7's and about 12 secs on the Elixirs. Both take 20 minutes TOPS to bleed front and rear..
 

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spxoo said:
avids are a ***** like that. again try pushing them back with something you can lever on, like a flat head a tire lever anything. Dont pry to hard, watch make sure fluid isnt coming out of the lever

Bleeding it would be a fix, Once the system is open pushing the pads is easy.

Sometimes you can open the bleed valve on the lever, band a paper towel over it. Very gently push the pads out (system is opened) that will push some fluid out, cap it back off and hope you didnt let to much out or let to much air in.

Ive messed with a bunch of techniques to change avid pads and they all suck
what are you talking about?

If you have trouble changing pads you did not read the manual, period.

Changing pads AND bleeding takes me 15 min and aside from the occasional frozen piston I have never hit a snag.

Now for the OP

http://www.sram.com/_media/techdocs/Disc Brake Pad Install CODE.pdf
http://www.sram.com/_media/techdocs/95-5015-009-000.pdf
http://www.sram.com/_media/techdocs/95-5015-012-000_Avid Code Lever Bearing & Tool_A.pdf

There you have most information you could ever need for your code brakes.
 

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Capricious youth...
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You need some "anti-pliers". That's what I call them. Leave the old pads in and then use the "anti-pliers" to push both piston (by pushing the pads) back into place.

My anti-pliers, I mean pliers where when you grip the handles and pinch, they spread instead of pinch.

I'm an idiot, but you get the idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
pads update

YoPawn said:
Leave the old pads in. Then spread them apart by putting a flat head screw driver in there and turning it sideways, any strong/flat piece of metal would work though. Once the pads have been pushed back all the way, take them out and put in the new ones.

Don't do this with the new pads, as it will ruin the surface. It's really the only way to get all 4 pistons in at the same time.
ok...I found an old Intense DH tire lever and was able to press the pistons in nicely.
The wheel spins freely now.

However, it seems that my modulation is really [email protected] now.
When I pull the lever, the pads GRAB the rotor immediately. Feels like OTB possibility.
I played with the red knob and it does it regardless of the lever position.

All the years riding, my brakes never grabbed like this.

So, I plan on doing a quick bleed to see if I can get the modulation back.

Anyone have any other ideas why they would feel this way?
Do you think the bleed will solve this new issue?
 

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freeriderB said:
ok...I found an old Intense DH tire lever and was able to press the pistons in nicely.
The wheel spins freely now.

However, it seems that my modulation is really [email protected] now.
When I pull the lever, the pads GRAB the rotor immediately. Feels like OTB possibility.
I played with the red knob and it does it regardless of the lever position.

All the years riding, my brakes never grabbed like this.

So, I plan on doing a quick bleed to see if I can get the modulation back.

Anyone have any other ideas why they would feel this way?
Do you think the bleed will solve this new issue?
Did you get different pads?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
pads

69nites said:
Did you get different pads?
I actually put in a pair of used pads that I had lying around.
Tons of life left and they are the sintered type (I don't like the organic).
 

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freeriderB said:
I actually put in a pair of used pads that I had lying around.
Tons of life left and they are the sintered type (I don't like the organic).
That's probably why they grab hard now. The pad is not even with the rotor. Try taking the bike down a hill and bedding them in a bit. If that doesn't work. Buy organic pads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
rotors

YoPawn said:
That's probably why they grab hard now. The pad is not even with the rotor. Try taking the bike down a hill and bedding them in a bit. If that doesn't work. Buy organic pads.
could it be because I cleaned the rotor with alcohol and now it's super clean?
I'm still going to bleed them, and if they feel the same I'll just burn them up a bit on a couple of runs to see how they feel.

thanks for all the feedback.
 

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freeriderB said:
could it be because I cleaned the rotor with alcohol and now it's super clean?
I'm still going to bleed them, and if they feel the same I'll just burn them up a bit on a couple of runs to see how they feel.

thanks for all the feedback.
if you had a dirty rotor that would easily explain it. If you're used to having to grab the crap out of your lever due to a greasy rotor and then grabbed on a clean rotor with the same force that would absolutely explain what's going on for you.

codes require a light touch. Perhaps it's just a little too much brake for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
2 much?

69nites said:
if you had a dirty rotor that would easily explain it. If you're used to having to grab the crap out of your lever due to a greasy rotor and then grabbed on a clean rotor with the same force that would absolutely explain what's going on for you.

codes require a light touch. Perhaps it's just a little too much brake for you.
uhh not quite...but thanks for the concern...
this is my 3rd season beatin' the snot out of them.
However, I have only recently been performing my own maintenance on them. I used to let the LBS worry about this stuff....
 

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freeriderB said:
uhh not quite...but thanks for the concern...
this is my 3rd season beatin' the snot out of them.
However, I have only recently been performing my own maintenance on them. I used to let the LBS worry about this stuff....
did you read the literature I linked you to from SRAM and see how to properly set up your brakes and see if there's anything you did wrong?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
manual

69nites said:
did you read the literature I linked you to from SRAM and see how to properly set up your brakes and see if there's anything you did wrong?
yes...
While not an expert mechanic, I have changed many pads and taught myself to bleed them with success...It just feels weird right now.
 

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freeriderB said:
i did this with the red pad spreader...but I guess I couldn't generate enough force.
Should I drip some brake fluid on the pistons? or will it just attract dirt and crud?
I'm thinking they need some sort of lubrication no??
The same thing happened with my Saints when I accidentally let some fluid out (oops), but I used a plastic tire lever to spread the pistons and push them back into their original position. I had to push a lot so I'd imagine that little plastic red thing may not push him back all the way.

Also, this should go without saying, but don't use a metal screwdriver on NEW pads!
 
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