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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
my first attempt at LED DIY

after gaining some direction from the very knowledgeable types on this forum, i bought a few optics & reflectors, made a test rig and came up with a design.

2 X MCE M bin
Hipflex driver
4 X 18650 in series
1 X Boom SS
1 X Iris S

tested it on the bench at various settings to thermal map the fin design ( love the functionality of the Flex ) before giving it an hour test ride on a local track.

I like it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
This build was specifically for the Taupo Day Night Thriller ( just been ). Unfortunately I crashed out on my second lap ( lunch time ) and did my right AC joint, game over for me. We've been doin this race for 10 years and this was our first major team off. Didn't get to try the light under race conditions or get any beam shots, but gave it to one of our other team members to trial and he seemed to survive the night laps ok. The boys described his approach to our transition area as a ball of light coming toward them.

I've just had surgery last week for the shoulder so will get some beam shots in a few weeks once I can use 2 hands again.

My advice from this race, always pass on the right! less likely to have a front brake moment ( NZ bike set up has front brake on RH side )

I've found this forum quite addictive and have at least 6 weeks in a sling to plan the next light... Lookin forward to seeing what XPG creations get born.
 

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zemike said:
Strange to see a Boom SS tilted down for close-range illumination.
The Boom SS is still quite floody though, it has a lot of spill. But yes, depending on the angling of it, the hotspot might be a bit too close and too bright... this definitely requires beamshots!

rickh1, that is a beautiful light. Wish I could make something that slick! Hope you heal up quickly so you can give it some proper use. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
part of my testing was to design the light so it had adequate flood lighting and also have the spot beam at the correct angle for long range view without head up or down adjustment.
the one short ride i had with it seemed ideal in terms of angle for both the spot and flood. will get a beam shot up next week when the shoulder stops humming.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Beam shots

Finally got out to get a beam shot, don't have a configurable camera so had to use it on auto setting.
Couldn't tell what ISO rating it was set at but from the image properties,
the long shot was F2.8 & 1/6 sec
the zoomed shot was F3.3 & 1/6 sec

First white box is at 30m the second at 60m

On the full length shot the front 10-15m shows as a burnt out hot spot. In reality this was not the case it was a nice spread of light. I think it was more a result of the camera setting. The zoomed shot shows how much light there is out at the 60m mark which is very usable.

I initially made a test rig to try out numerous lens / optic / reflector combinations. The configuration I liked best was the Boom SS and the Iris Spot. I found that the finished light was not throwing as far as I remembered on the test rig. Like many other reflectors or lenses, the Iris Spot needs to be positioned very accurately over the MCE to get maximum throw and focus. I set up the test rig again and with careful adjustment I could get 60-65m of good lighting from the Iris, a good 5m extra. My finished build is getting about 55-60m of useful illumination.

What I really like is when mounted on the helmet, I don't have to continually look up and down to get both close and long distance illumination of the track.
 

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rickh1 said:
What I really like is when mounted on the helmet, I don't have to continually look up and down to get both close and long distance illumination of the track.
That makes sense, from the pics it looks like you have good coverage near and far, with the middle getting the spill from both beams - a good all round setup in one light.
 

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Very nice design ! Even with a bar mounted lamp, it's fine to be able to see near the front wheel and so far at the same time. My 2 MCE ugly light use a boom SS and a boom wide. Your design demonstrate that a IRIS is the best way to give a nice spot , and boom a nice spill. You may try a boom wide to enlarge it and decrease a little the near front exposure. You'll see, the edges of the track will be stable ! Have a good shoulder trainning.
 

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From the EXIF data on the images:

Camera Model = FinePix S1000fd
First Image: ISO Speed Ratings = 1600; ƒ/2.8; 1/6 second
Second Image: ISO Speed Ratings = 1600; ƒ/3.3; 1/6 second

Nice looking light.

--Carl
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
thanks TTGV,
I tried out about a dozen different reflectors and optics to get the best combination. Like most people on this forum I thought I would only be building one light. Thing is, you learn so much on the first build you want to make another even better light with the experience gained. I'm planning on building a simple xpg for my son, There are already plenty of great xpg design ideas posted. :)
 
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