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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello to all the big boys on the forum.It's been a while since Iv,e posted here,and I was interested in what people are running tire/tube wise?The reason I ask is that I have had an absolutely ridiculous amount of flats lately,both front,and rear.Out of the last 8 rides I have gotten 11 flats,7 rear,and 4 on the front to be exact.....:madman:

I'm a decent sized Clyde at 6"6',275 lbs.without gear.I ride an 05' Kona Coiler,with Tioga Blue Dragons for rubber,running at 55 psi..I'm pretty frustrated,because I was having a killer ride today in the rain,and exploring a new trail system,and got a double flat.I honestly don't get it."It sure would be nice to complete a ride without having to carry a pack full of tubes!"Two days ago I pulled both rims,checked the inside,and outside of each tire very thoroughly.I examined each rim for burs on the inside as well.Any suggestions?"Thanks guys":D
 

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First a little about me:

6'4" 265lbs w/o gear

Hardtail mtb w/3" travel fork
2.1 Panaracer Fire XC tires, pumped to ~50psi.

I confess that I ride my mtb as much in a whole season as a lot of people here ride in a month (10 or 15 good off-road rides), but I am big and fit and I do ride hard. And I get about 1 flat per year on average on my MTB.

Before I got the Panaracer tires I had Kenda 2.35 somethingorothers and I got very few flats with those too, but I kept them pumped to between 35 and 40psi.

When you get a flat do you ever find the cause? You said you eliminated the possibility of it being caused by your rims or tires, but do you ever find a thorn or nail or something? Can you locate the puncture in the tube, and is it usually in the same sort of location?

If it is pinch flats (hitting obstacles at speed so hard that the tube is pinched between the rim and tire) then tubeless is the way to go. Normally going to higher pressure is the key, but 55psi is about the max you should be riding off-road, IMHO. Otherwise, I don't know what to say - I don't have a big FS bike so I probably treat my bike a little more gingerly and my experience is not 100% appicable to you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
TobyNobody said:
When you get a flat do you ever find the cause? You said you eliminated the possibility of it being caused by your rims or tires, but do you ever find a thorn or nail or something? Can you locate the puncture in the tube, and is it usually in the same sort of location?
I would say about half the flats are due to thorns etc.I realize flats are part of the game,but I was just wondering if there is a way to reduce the number of flats.I'm not getting pinch flats,so I guess I'm looking for a way to increase puncture resistance.
 

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BigSwede said:
I would say about half the flats are due to thorns etc.I realize flats are part of the game,but I was just wondering if there is a way to reduce the number of flats.I'm not getting pinch flats,so I guess I'm looking for a way to increase puncture resistance.
Because you use sealant as part of the tubeless setup...they're not only great for pinch flat problems but they also greatly reduce other flats from thorns, etc.

Otherwise, you can go with thick DH or Thorn Resistant tubes and Slime to reduce your flats, they weigh a ton but you'll get less flats. Some use tire liners, but IME they can cause as many flats as they prevent. I spent 8 years wrenching bikes and tubeless is the best flat resistant system I've seen and used, I use the Ghetto system myself with good success.
 

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go tubeless. that's it. Problem over. Sealant will fix your thorn problem. There is a reason why more and more people are going tubeless.

OR take the cores out of your tube's valves and put some sealant in your tubes. Shader vales can be removed and replaced. That will also help limit your flats from thorns.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Okay,great advise guys,thanks.I just checked out the "Ghetto tubeless system",and it looks like a good way to handle the problem.I love wrenching on my Kona,but I really would like to get a full ride in for a change.......:thumbsup:
 

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Swede,

Paul "Bunyan" here. I'm the same size as you and abuse my FS bike. I used to ride tubes on my stock DT 470 wheels with Specialized Captain tires and used to get pinch flats and thorns running 50psi.

Last year I switched to a hand built rim (which at our weight is almost a must if you ride a lot) and ended up with a Flow rim with tubeless The Captain tires 2.2". I have yet to have a flat other than blowing it off the rim in a crash.
I really only have good things to say about going tubeless. I've never tried the ghetto tubeless but imagine that it would work out for you just as well.

Good luck!
 

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Mojo MadDuc
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Tubeless is the way!

Swede,

I am not built quite as large as you but I am easily 240 with gear. I have to agree with Paul Bunyan, I have been running a set of wheels built on Stan's Flow rims, DT swiss spokes and Hadley hubs,I run have been run several different tires Tubeless for the last couple of years with great results. I have had 2 flats in the last two years since switching to the new rims and using Stan;s sealant. One flat was a ripped sidewall that could not have been stopped by anything. Tubeless is the way to go for Clyde's, if you don't want to deal with new wheels, start with Stan's tape and Stan's sealant and your wheels and give it a try, It will take the tires a day or so to seal well, so expect some loss of air until you ride them a couple of days and they seal completely. Once they are sealed you are good to go! Your flat issues will go away. Hope this helps.:thumbsup:

MadDuc916
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Okay,so tubeless it is....:D Here is a version of the "Ghetto System" that involves the use of Gorilla duct tape instead of the 20 inch bmx tube.I like it,because it looks like a cleaner finished product."Thanks guys for the advice on Stan's Flow rims"Now I know what direction to go in when I build up my next set of wheels.I have to keep it simple as funds are tight at the moment.I will do the conversion ASAP,and report back with the results.Once I get this problem solved I'm sure I'll get more enjoyment out of my Kona.It's been able to handle all my abuse so far...with the exception of a few snapped chains,but that's not an issue with the bike itself......:thumbsup:

 

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BigSwede said:
Okay,so tubeless it is....:D Here is a version of the "Ghetto System" that involves the use of Gorilla duct tape instead of the 20 inch bmx tube.I like it,because it looks like a cleaner finished product."Thanks guys for the advice on Stan's Flow rims"Now I know what direction to go in when I build up my next set of wheels.I have to keep it simple as funds are tight at the moment.I will do the conversion ASAP,and report back with the results.Once I get this problem solved I'm sure I'll get more enjoyment out of my Kona.It's been able to handle all my abuse so far...with the exception of a few snapped chains,but that's not an issue with the bike itself......:thumbsup:

I've used both and both work but here is my take:
Gorilla Tape method is good for UST or Tubeless Ready tires (notice the video includes using a Tubeless tire). These tires have reinforced tire beads and so they tend to hold onto the rim bead hook better. This method can also be tougher to seat the tires depending on how tight the bead is on the rim (tighter is better).

Ghetto Tubeless (using split tube) is a better choice for standard tires as it creates an extra seal between the tire and the rim. The split tube will actually adhere to the tire which makes an almost burp proof seal. If your going to use your Tioga tires, I recommend this method.

Also, you will need Sealant with this process. The most common is Stans, but if you do a search you can find some easy to make homebrew formulas. Here is mine that I have been using for over a year now.

-1 part Mold Builder latex
-1 part Slime for Tubeless Tires
-2 parts cheap Windshield Washer Fluid (NOT Window Cleaner which contains high amounts of ammonia)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
mtnbiker72 said:
I've used both and both work but here is my take:
Gorilla Tape method is good for UST or Tubeless Ready tires (notice the video includes using a Tubeless tire). These tires have reinforced tire beads and so they tend to hold onto the rim bead hook better. This method can also be tougher to seat the tires depending on how tight the bead is on the rim (tighter is better).

Ghetto Tubeless (using split tube) is a better choice for standard tires as it creates an extra seal between the tire and the rim. The split tube will actually adhere to the tire which makes an almost burp proof seal. If your going to use your Tioga tires, I recommend this method.

Also, you will need Sealant with this process. The most common is Stans, but if you do a search you can find some easy to make homebrew formulas. Here is mine that I have been using for over a year now.

-1 part Mold Builder latex
-1 part Slime for Tubeless Tires
-2 parts cheap Windshield Washer Fluid (NOT Window Cleaner which contains high amounts of ammonia)
Hey thanks mtnbiker72,for pointing out the differences in the two methods.I did see that the guy in the Gorilla tape video was using a tubeless tire,but had no idea that they have a reinforced bead,but now that I think of it,this does make complete sense.The most important thing to me is safety first,and that I handle this in the correct way.I have a tendency for hard riding,and want to decrease the chance of tire failure as much as possible.....The older I get the more the crashes hurt....:eekster:
 

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For a big guy i would recomend using a UST tire if you doing gorilla tape or the split tube method. I'm 6'4" and 310 lbs. I haven't tried too many tires, but I converted a panaracer fire pro 2.1 standard tire and a WTB wierwolf 2.1 standard tire to tubeless and the sidewalls weren't thick enough for me. The tires were very squirly. I switched to a panaracer fire pro UST 2.1 tire and it worked great. The UST tires have thicker sidewalls to support our girth.
 

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Mojo MadDuc
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Maxxis Igniter UST

Big Swede,

You might take a look at the Maxxix Igniter USt version. I ran it tubeless for 8 months with a lot of use in the rocks. They have a heavier sidewall and the reinforced bead, They should seal real well once you get them on and get them cured. Remember, don't spare the Stan's when you mount the tire, I suggest at least two of the cups that come with the Stan;s sealant maybe even a bit more. Once you air it up, the Stan's will start to come out in small amounts, don't worry about it, the sealant is just filling the pores and voids of the rubber. Don't over fill it with air tho start with, just enoiugh to seat the bead. Set the tire on one side for 30 minutes and then flip it over for 30 minutes. Do this in the evening, swapping every 30 minutes. Air it up the next day and ride it, you may still see some air lose. It take a day or two for the Stan's to set up and fill all the voids. In a couple of days you should be good to go. If you puncture the tire, the Stan's will fill the puncture unless it is a really big hole. The UST tires are probably a good idea for a guy your size, the sidewalls will be much thicker and sturdier. Hope this helps.

MadDuc916
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Today I went down to my local bike shop,to get a couple more tubes,until I can afford some nice tubeless tires after the holiday.This shop is very high end,and figured I'd strike up a conversation with a couple of the mechanics,and a sales person,about switching to a tubeless system.The conversation was interesting....:rolleyes: I was told point blank that tubeless tires would be of no benefit to me whatsoever,and in the long run staying with tubes would be more cost effective for me.Huh????

During the conversation,my [email protected]#t detector went off big time.The only time I see these guys,is when I need tubes,since I do all my own wrenching.It seems they want to keep me in tubes,and if I went to tubeless,they would make less money from me.Hell the money I have spent on tubes in the last month would cover a nice set of tubeless tires.Anyway guys thanks again for all the tips,and I'm looking forward to getting set up with tubeless tires here pretty soon.I won't be buying from those guys,that's for sure.I got the distinct impression that because I'm not a racer,and I only have 2k into my ride,and not 7k like those guys do,that I was some kind of joke,thus wasting their time....:rolleyes: :skep:
 

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I'm about 240 and I run Schwalbe Racing Ralph's, I have the EVO version and I still run them tubeless.

I have been running tubeless now for about 2 years and have YET to get a flat on the trail!

I have Mavic Crossmax ST's (which are for sale - PM me for details) and they work very well for tubeless.
 

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I'm 240lbs an I run a Schwalbe Racing Ralph up front and a Rocket Ron on the back. Both are tubeless, run at anywhere from 30-40psi. I haven't had a flat but I did puncture one and it sealed up instantly.
 

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+1 ghetto tubeless.

I used to flat hourly.
I can ride for best part of a year tubeless without a flat, when I do, reinflated in 15 seconds.

The only critical fail I had when tubeless died fully on me I just stuck an inner tube in and rode the fireroad back to base; i flatted the tube twice!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Okay guys,off to the store tomorrow to get the things I need to go "Ghetto".I went for a ride yesterday.I had two tubes left,and ended up with two flats....:madman:That brings the total to 13 for the month."I"M DONE WITH TUBES"Nothing like a 10 mile walk home on Christmas eve to make me see the light.......:rolleyes:I've been spending more time walking than riding.Well one of these days I'll get a complete ride in!:D
 

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yah, setting up tubeless is a nuisance, learning how to do it sucks, but not bothering to carry tubes because you can't remember last time you got a flat is awesome. Stans kit is worth the stupid money he charges.
 
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