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beautiful jackass
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently finished a singlespeed build using Stan's ZTR hubs (non-singlespeed freehub). My cog is a stainless steel 18t from Chris King.

When first built up, the cog position on the freehub was slightly off the chainline. Before fixing this, I gave the bike a test ride and heard a few "clunk" noises coming from the wheel when pedaling hard. When I took the spacers and cog off to perfect the chainline, I discovered that the "clunks" were likely the cog crunching into the splines of the freehub, as was evident in visual inspection. I had the cog positioned near the outer edge of the freehub so I figured the extreme outer positioning was the cause.

However, after I repositioned the cog more toward the center of the freehub, I still heard the noise a few times during my first trail ride. It only happens during stressful pedaling and it's only happened two times that I am aware of.

I'm concerned the cog will completely rip through the splines, resulting in a very bad thing happening under intense pedaling.

I bought the Chris King cog because I was under the impression that it had wide enough "feet" to prevent what has happened. If I continue to ride like this, am I putting myself in danger?
 

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I'm using the non SS ZTR hubs as well with an Origin8 cog and have not had any problems. CK cogs should be wide enough to not cause any harm. However, a big dude with a alloy freehub body could be a bad combination with any cog.
 

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beautiful jackass
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
dkbmxr18 said:
I'm using the non SS ZTR hubs as well with an Origin8 cog and have not had any problems. CK cogs should be wide enough to not cause any harm. However, a big dude with a alloy freehub body could be a bad combination with any cog.
I'm about 200 pounds fully geared up. I wouldn't consider that too excessive.

dkbmxr18 said:
Forgot to mention, make sure your lock ring is tight!
I tightened it by hand - doesn't it become tighter with pedaling?
 

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one incredible donkey said:
I'm about 200 pounds fully geared up. I wouldn't consider that too excessive.

I tightened it by hand - doesn't it become tighter with pedaling?
I don't know that it becomes tighter, but I do tighten mine with the Shimano lock ring wrench, pretty tight too.
 

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big legs, small brains
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It does not get tighter, unless you have a freewheel. Most likely your problem is you cannot tighten the spacers and cog tight enough by hand to prevent side to side play. Get the cassette tool.
 

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one incredible donkey said:
I'm about 200 pounds fully geared up. I wouldn't consider that too excessive.

It should be fine.

I tightened it by hand - doesn't it become tighter with pedaling?
They need to be torqued down to around 40nm. If they are not torqued down then the cog will shift around and cause noise. :thumbsup:
 

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Yeah, I realize that this has been said but your lockring is nowhere close to where it needs to be as far as how tight it is. Good thing you caught it now though. You will also need a chain whip for when you want to take your cog off.
 

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This is a bit of a thread hijack but i figure it fits into this topic pretty well and saves me making another thread. Is there a big difference between a regular freehub and something like this http://chrisking.com/hubs/hbs_sspeed_disc ? I can't really tell looking from the pictures. It just looks like a wider flange spacing and therefore a smaller freehub which only fits one cog. Is that about right? Do you still need spacers or just a cog and lockring? Is it worth getting these over something like a regular ztr hub?
 

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My King SS still requires spacers. They will be used to get a good chainline. I thin I have 2 ~5mm spacers, and either a King or Surly cog in the "center" position.
 

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I got the regular geared ZTR hub just in case I ever want to use the wheels on another bike and have the option of running gears.
 
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