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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got the Chris King fun bolt setup on the Nomad, and the rear end of that bike is super stiff :D

But I think it's a 10mm axle setup? Just curious if 12x142mm will compare in terms of stiffness. Currently, I have to carry a huge 8mm allen key with me just in case I get a flat :)
 

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Eh, it's much of a muchness.

Your Nomad is a 10mm rear dropout, most of the stiffness comes from it having very short suspension links and a rear triangle as opposed to a one or two piece swingarm. A bolt up or through bolt rear hub also helps.

Really it comes down to individual frames, having a 12mm rear axle would imply the designer aimed for a stiff rear triangle. You can get 10mm QR through bolts for 10mm axled hubs though.
http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=32&products_id=287
Something like this would give you most of the stiffness of funbolts without the allen key, but I don't know which axle you'd need for a CK hub to make that work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
b-kul said:
do nomads have interchangable drop outs? because if 10mm works 12mm wont.
Nomads do not have interchangeable drop outs. I have no issues with the rear end stiffness, I'm just trying to understand the benefits of the new standard.

Fix the Spade said:
Eh, it's much of a muchness.

Your Nomad is a 10mm rear dropout, most of the stiffness comes from it having very short suspension links and a rear triangle as opposed to a one or two piece swingarm. A bolt up or through bolt rear hub also helps.

Really it comes down to individual frames, having a 12mm rear axle would imply the designer aimed for a stiff rear triangle. You can get 10mm QR through bolts for 10mm axled hubs though.
http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/produ...roducts_id=287
Something like this would give you most of the stiffness of funbolts without the allen key, but I don't know which axle you'd need for a CK hub to make that work.
This makes total sense. Since I have no issues with the Nomad's rear end, I'm OK with bringing an allen key for the fun bolts. I think the rear CK hub has a bolt up rear end. I know it's much stiffer than a QR rear end thankfully :D
 

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Fix the Spade said:
Eh, it's much of a muchness.

Your Nomad is a 10mm rear dropout, most of the stiffness comes from it having very short suspension links and a rear triangle as opposed to a one or two piece swingarm. A bolt up or through bolt rear hub also helps.

Really it comes down to individual frames, having a 12mm rear axle would imply the designer aimed for a stiff rear triangle. You can get 10mm QR through bolts for 10mm axled hubs though.
http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=32&products_id=287
Something like this would give you most of the stiffness of funbolts without the allen key, but I don't know which axle you'd need for a CK hub to make that work.
wow. that is way cheaper than the RWS.
 

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Nomads are 10x135mm only. Can't get stiffer than Fun bolts. CK's are not interchangeable either (TA vs. Fun bolts, etc.). So you have the best setup available. Just find a smaller 8mm tool.
 

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b-kul said:
lol. i know what you mean but once you get to a certain size its just not useful any more.
I've got a Bontrager multi-tool that has an 8mm cap that fits on top of the 6mm wrench - pretty handy
 

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macming said:
I'm just trying to understand the benefits of the new standard.
It keeps the 135mm' chainline, but makes hub end cup 3mm wider so that they rest on frame. Easier to insert and align - compared to 12mm Maxle. I guess it could be stronger too, as weight is not on the axle or bolts. From what I understood hubs for Shimano 142mm E-thru and X12 are compatible - different axles, with SHimano borrowing form 15mm front design. 12mm seems to be the biggest axle you can fit while keeping reasonable bearing size.

I use Hope's 10mm bolt ons on one bike and 10mm through axle with DT RWS on another. Good improvement - but I guess a frame designed from ground up for a TA would be even better.
 

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SC seem to think that the Nomad - even it's new Carbon version - is fine with standard QR rear, for the reasons Fix the Spade indicated above. I've seen SC sponsored riders tearing those Nomads up (Kirt Vories for example), pulling off jumps, drops and other maneuvers I can, at this stage, only dream of doing.

If they & other SC testers find no stiffness issues, I doubt I'm likely to.

Back to your fun bolt - Topeak Mini18 has a similar 8mm tool that should handle what you need to do with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
b-kul said:
lol. i know what you mean but once you get to a certain size its just not useful any more.
I know, I'm Asian and even I think 8mm is pretty useless :thumbsup:

But really, I'm not looking forward to change my setup. Just curious what the benefits of the new "standard" that's being pushed onto us.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
nuclear_powered said:
SC seem to think that the Nomad - even it's new Carbon version - is fine with standard QR rear, for the reasons Fix the Spade indicated above. I've seen SC sponsored riders tearing those Nomads up (Kirt Vories for example), pulling off jumps, drops and other maneuvers I can, at this stage, only dream of doing.

If they & other SC testers find no stiffness issues, I doubt I'm likely to.
This is exactly my thoughts. I don't feel any flex from the rear of my Nomad when I went downhilling at Blue Mountain last weekend.

nuclear_powered said:
Back to your fun bolt - Topeak Mini18 has a similar 8mm tool that should handle what you need to do with it.
colin1 said:
I've got a Bontrager multi-tool that has an 8mm cap that fits on top of the 6mm wrench - pretty handy
Emm... that is interesting. I'll talk to my shop about getting one of the tools with the 8mm bit. I'm hoping I can get enough leverage using a mini tool though. As I do the fun bolts pretty tight using a fairly long 8mm allen key (used to use a 3' torque wrench, but later couldn't get the wheel off using another else)
 

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i use a regular hex set as a trail tool. it has every hex size i need for my bike and gives more than enough leverage to tighten my funbolts. this new "standard" isn't even readily available and people are already trying to switch. relax, upgraders.
 

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nuclear_powered said:
SC seem to think that the Nomad - even it's new Carbon version - is fine with standard QR rear, for the reasons Fix the Spade indicated above. I've seen SC sponsored riders tearing those Nomads up (Kirt Vories for example), pulling off jumps, drops and other maneuvers I can, at this stage, only dream of doing.

If they & other SC testers find no stiffness issues, I doubt I'm likely to.
I have 2 friends who upgraded from QR to 10mm TA in Nomad 2s, and both saw noticeable stiffness. I tried riding my Intense SS with QR, and gave it up after riding around the neighborhood. It was almost like going from QR to 20mm in the front for me. Pros can ride anything, especially if they are paid to. :)
 

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I too run the CK hubs with the Fun Bolts. I just sent off an e-mail to CK asking about adapters for the new 142 set up. I have been following other threads on frames going to 142 so their may come a day when I might change but dont want to drop extra coin on new wheels. I'll post Kings responce when I get it. I would bet the gain going to 142 is not that great over my current wheels. My suggestion to the big 8mm for the Fun Bolts was to get an old T wrench and cut it down with the Dremmel. Fits nicely in my pack.
 

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Hangtime said:
I would bet the gain going to 142 is not that great over my current wheels.
I would think you are right. 10mm bolt-on and through axle does bring a lot of stiffness.

I assume that the main benefit of 142mm is an easier setup - Shimano's E-thru is reportedly quite similar to their 15mm axle. No tools needed. It could possibly be lighter overall - on my Hope hubs the bolts are quite heavy.
 

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12mm axle is a pain in the azz to line up sometimes so the alignment benefits putting the wheel in place with 142mm rears will be good. but truthfully a 10mm axlw whether it's a hadley or other or king fun bolts are plenty stiff and lining them up is as easy as a qr.

i wouldn't hold my breath on king 142mm adapters though. they take forever to adopt to new standards. they only released their 10mm axle last year. i'd like to be pleasantly surprised, but i'm not very optimistic
 

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Curmy said:
It keeps the 135mm' chainline, but makes hub end cup 3mm wider so that they rest on frame. Easier to insert and align - compared to 12mm Maxle. I guess it could be stronger too, as weight is not on the axle or bolts. From what I understood hubs for Shimano 142mm E-thru and X12 are compatible - different axles, with SHimano borrowing form 15mm front design. 12mm seems to be the biggest axle you can fit while keeping reasonable bearing size.

I use Hope's 10mm bolt ons on one bike and 10mm through axle with DT RWS on another. Good improvement - but I guess a frame designed from ground up for a TA would be even better.
i have the same setup as you do with 10mm bolt on/hope hubs on my wfo, i always wondered if bolt through would be any stronger, since you have both what is opinion? anyone compare maxle to the above?
 

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david8613 said:
i have the same setup as you do with 10mm bolt on/hope hubs on my wfo, i always wondered if bolt through would be any stronger, since you have both what is opinion? anyone compare maxle to the above?
I do not think either is stronger or stiffer. Bolt-on and 10mm DT RWS axle are a wash weight wise - RWS is obviously easier to put on and remove. 10mm Hadley through axle will be marginally lighter, I think, especially with Ti bolts. I would hesitate use Ti bols with a stock bolt-on axle, as bolts rests directly on dropouts. If bolt-on works for you, I would not bother changing. I could install 12mm dropouts on my Kona, but decided not to bother. RWS did make it a bit better tracking in the rough, as far as I can tell - but a stiff fork - I ride Wotan - is probably more important. Bolt-on was very noticeable on a lighteweight ti hardtail frame.
 
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