[jpjp18]

I have a chris king dropset 3 on my yeti for around couple of months only and it produced this kind of notchy sound when turning the handlbar, I suspect it came form the top cap

It's been torque correctly, Chris King even sent me some new o rings for the top assembly cap.
But it didn't solved the problem.

When I loosen the stem cap a little more, there's no more sound from the top cap will rotate tiny bit after some bumps, after a a day riding, the top cap will be close to 90degree off.

But if I tighten a touch more, thou the top cap no longer rotate but the notchy sound came back.

Chris King end up sending me a complete new top cap assembly.
At first it was all good, but on the 2nd trail day ride. It all return to the old problem, top cap rotate when torque below 2nm or notchy sound when torque to 2nm.

I'm really clueless now, Chris King doesn't seem to be replying my email anymore.

I initially had CC40 but wanted to try some better quality one and heard Chris King lifetime warranty.
quite disappointing to see how Chris King not doing anything to resolve my problem now.

 

[Arm&Hammer]

Sounds like the headset or crown race is not seated correctly possibly?

 

[Shark]

Have you pulled everything apart to ensure it is clean and well greased?

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

 

[Sparticus]

OP,
Chris King sells bicycle components.
Chris King does not engage in bicycle repair -- bike shops do this. Chris King is not a bike shop.
So I'm not surprised that CK made sure you had the components you ordered (their obligation as a retailer) and then went on to replace those components (top cap assembly, at least) to make sure that in case the first CK component you received was defective, then it was replaced by a new, unquestionably satisfactory one. CK might consider this act a "charity warranty."
Sounds like this is what CK has done, anyway.
Time to either take your bike to a competent bicycle repair shop or figure it out on your own.
I understand that coming to MTBR with questions may be part of the latter strategy.
The final sentence in your initial post stated that you were disappointed in CK; I'm only here to explain why Chris King stopped engaging you.
Don't be disappointed. CK already fulfilled their obligation.
Now it's time to move on to a bike shop so they can do their part.
Hope you get the problem figured out.
=sParty

 

[jpjp18]

OP,
Chris King sells bicycle components.
Chris King does not engage in bicycle repair -- bike shops do this. Chris King is not a bike shop.
So I'm not surprised that CK made sure you had the components you ordered (their obligation as a retailer) and then went on to replace those components (top cap assembly, at least) to make sure that in case the first CK component you received was defective, then it was replaced by a new, unquestionably satisfactory one. CK might consider this act a "charity warranty."
Sounds like this is what CK has done, anyway.
Time to either take your bike to a competent bicycle repair shop or figure it out on your own.
I understand that coming to MTBR with questions may be part of the latter strategy.
The final sentence in your initial post stated that you were disappointed in CK; I'm only here to explain why Chris King stopped engaging you.
Don't be disappointed. CK already fulfilled their obligation.
Now it's time to move on to a bike shop so they can do their part.
Hope you get the problem figured out.
=sParty

There's no need to complicate things,
I came here to look for solution or anybody have similar problem with the dropset 3, and also find out how is CK support like.
If a product have a design fault, there might be more people having this issue.

 

[jpjp18]

Have you pulled everything apart to ensure it is clean and well greased?

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

Yes, I did. including the crown race except opening up the bearings.

 

[wschruba]

This sounds like a facing/reaming problem (frame machining). Some headsets are more tolerant of mis-sized/imperfect seats than others.

Don't assume that an expensive bike has had these procedures done; if you see no evidence of milling in/on the headtube, it would benefit you to have it done.

 

[Bikeworks]

I have a Dropset 5, and I am using my own top cap with a spacer, not experienced this problem. I also do not torque the top cap on any of my bikes. Hand tight, that's it. Not sure if any of that will help, but wanted to offer my experience so far. Also, I'm wondering if @wschruba isn't on to something here.

 

[jpjp18]

This sounds like a facing/reaming problem (frame machining). Some headsets are more tolerant of mis-sized/imperfect seats than others.

Don't assume that an expensive bike has had these procedures done; if you see no evidence of milling in/on the headtube, it would benefit you to have it done.

I will have to check on that, thanks

 

[jpjp18]

I have a Dropset 5, and I am using my own top cap with a spacer, not experienced this problem. I also do not torque the top cap on any of my bikes. Hand tight, that's it. Not sure if any of that will help, but wanted to offer my experience so far. Also, I'm wondering if @wschruba isn't on to something here.

I don't normally use torque wrench for headset but since this issue I torque it just in case the headset is sensitive.
I don't recall missing any critical step as installing it isn't so complex at all.

 

[p0is0n0ak]

Yeah, my first thought is that this sounds like an install issue. Over-torqueing is at the top of my list, especially if, as you say, when you loosen the top cap it stops. This sounds like a case of torqueing the top cap without loosening the stem bolts thereby pulling the star nut. FWIW, there is no need to torque the top cap after the stem bolts have been tightened. In fact, mot manufactures recommend that you back off the top bolt 1/4 turn after torqueing the stem bolts. Perhaps the "nothcy" sound to which you refer is the start nut being pulled through the steerer.

I really don't see this as a manufacturer issue. My bikes wear out before my Chris King headsets.

 

[eri]

Something isn’t right with your situation. Tighten too much and you get contact noise? What should happen is that bars get hard to turn, then bind. Notch contact says it’s not assembled right.

first to check that star but is seated deeply. If it’s too high the top cap will bottom out before headset is seated.

next check your star nut is aligned

check that stem is faced well, bent or rough stem face will distort headset just like improperly faced frame.

assembly: when you take it apart and reassembly, make sure to seat everything tight with your hands. If headset is assembled crooked and then you tighten it you can bend and wreck it. Take it all apart and check for damage. Leave cups seated but check and disassemle everything else.

edit: I’ve found Chris king headsets need more preload than most. They like it and it takes a lot before they bind. Inadequate preload causes problems.

 

[jpjp18]

Yeah, my first thought is that this sounds like an install issue. Over-torqueing is at the top of my list, especially if, as you say, when you loosen the top cap it stops. This sounds like a case of torqueing the top cap without loosening the stem bolts thereby pulling the star nut. FWIW, there is no need to torque the top cap after the stem bolts have been tightened. In fact, mot manufactures recommend that you back off the top bolt 1/4 turn after torqueing the stem bolts. Perhaps the "nothcy" sound to which you refer is the start nut being pulled through the steerer.

I really don't see this as a manufacturer issue. My bikes wear out before my Chris King headsets.

I'm using the oneup edc so there's no star nut, there's 5-6mm gap from the steerer to the oneup stem cap on the top.
I did loosen the stem bolt.

 

[jpjp18]

Something isn’t right with your situation. Tighten too much and you get contact noise? What should happen is that bars get hard to turn, then bind. Notch contact says it’s not assembled right.

first to check that star but is seated deeply. If it’s too high the top cap will bottom out before headset is seated.

next check your star nut is aligned

check that stem is faced well, bent or rough stem face will distort headset just like improperly faced frame.

assembly: when you take it apart and reassembly, make sure to seat everything tight with your hands. If headset is assembled crooked and then you tighten it you can bend and wreck it. Take it all apart and check for damage. Leave cups seated but check and disassemle everything else.

edit: I’ve found Chris king headsets need more preload than most. They like it and it takes a lot before they bind. Inadequate preload causes problems.

Stem looks fine, spacer is fine too, the top cap assembly is not loose and everything is put on accordingly to manual.
I've check the top cap and pull it apart to check the internal, all looks fine.

 

[127.0.0.1]

get that oneup garbage out of there, fix the problem without it first

 

[p0is0n0ak]

I'm using the oneup edc so there's no star nut, there's 5-6mm gap from the steerer to the oneup stem cap on the top.
I did loosen the stem bolt.

Well, that info might have been useful from the start. If you want to get advice on something as ephemeral as a "notchy" sound, we need very detailed information. I still see this as operator/installer error. My best advice at this point is to take it to the shop and ask them to pull everything- headset, fork, edc, crown race. Clean and lube the bearings, inside and out, clean all surfaces with IPA, apply antiseize to the mounting surfaces and any threads, reseat the crown race, reinstall the edc, and reinstall the fork. I would also ask them to double check the facing as well as make sure the head tube is not ovalized.

 

[mfa81]

get that oneup garbage out of there, fix the problem without it first

this will cause no issues, star nut or oneup threaded steerer tube has nothing to do with the issue by themselves alone

 

[jpjp18]

Well, that info might have been useful from the start. If you want to get advice on something as ephemeral as a "notchy" sound, we need very detailed information. I still see this as operator/installer error. My best advice at this point is to take it to the shop and ask them to pull everything- headset, fork, edc, crown race. Clean and lube the bearings, inside and out, clean all surfaces with IPA, apply antiseize to the mounting surfaces and any threads, reseat the crown race, reinstall the edc, and reinstall the fork. I would also ask them to double check the facing as well as make sure the head tube is not ovalized.

ya guess i'll do that.
forgot to mention that, pardon me

 

[arnea]

Huh. If you are using Oneup EDC what is this top cap that you are torqueing to 2Nm? With EDC there is no top cap.

 

[jpjp18]

Huh. If you are using Oneup EDC what is this top cap that you are torqueing to 2Nm? With EDC there is no top cap.

Yes, there's a edc top cap that acts like a stem cap.