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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi,

I have a question regarding internal wire routing on a Chinese frame, specifically FM056.
Basically, the problem is that the internal wire system makes the rear derailleur wire flex/stretch, and I believe that it is not supposed to do that! :confused: It absolutely makes the rear derailleur malfunctioning!

I made a video to demonstrate the problem: youtube.com/watch?v=6PrMAx-udeM
The stretch you see in this video is due to the internal wiring exclusively.

Now, this system only allows me to thread a thin wire through the frame. I
m not able to tread an outer hose through, so there must be some kind of built-in outer system?

Anybody seen this before? I have thought of 2 solutions: 1) External threading. Ugly, but will work and 2) Drill out the entry/exit holes and try to refit a outer wire manually through the frame. The latter sounds rather complex.

best regards
JF
 

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Do you have a housing ferrel on the housing going into the frame at the top of the down tube? It looked like you didn't have one in the vid. Hard to tell, but if you don't put on one and see what happens.
You need a ferrel anywhere your housing terminates or you can get that affect you describe.
 

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You need housing and ferrels on each end between the shifter and where the cable goes into the frame. You need the same from where the cable comes out of the frame and the rear derailiuer.
 

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You need housing and ferrels on each end between the shifter and where the cable goes into the frame. You need the same from where the cable comes out of the frame and the rear derailiuer.
I have actually found on a Chinese road bike that having a ferrule on the end of the housing where it entered the frame caused friction that would not allow my brake to work properly.
Perhaps this is the same issue the OP is having with his internal gearing.
I am about to gear up my FM056 this weekend so will likely need to look at this same issue then.
 

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I had the same issue as the op with my brake cable. I forgot to put a ferrel and everytime I pulled the brake the housing was being smashed into the frame and it caused a lot of stretch/play in the brake cable. Put on a ferrel and bingo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Unfortunately, I discovered this issue _with_ and without ferrel at the exit hole. My rear derailleur was impossible to configure. The video lacks ferrels, but that is just to demonstrate the problem. At the hole where the wire enters the frame, it is to narrow to put a standard ferrel, so I believe there should not be one there.

Looking forward to hear from the other FM056 purchasers. I have also sent an email to Hongfu-bikes, and asked for advise.

JF
 

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At the hole where the wire enters the frame, it is to narrow to put a standard ferrel, so I believe there should not be one there.
This is your problem. You have to make or find one that fits. I had the same problem. I found a jagwire ferrule to fit. Housing itself is not made to do the job the ferrule does.
I used one of these:
 

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First off, thanks to the OP for starting a new thread instead of adding to the huge thread.

Lenny, do you have a part number for that ferrule? I believe that it might be BOT012BJ.
 

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First off, thanks to the OP for starting a new thread instead of adding to the huge thread.

Lenny, do you have a part number for that ferrule? I believe that it might be BOT012BJ.
I did a quick google and it looks like the part #. They came in the ripcord cable and housing set for me, I didn't order them separate. They don't fit perfect but they fit in there and stay.
 

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The inner routing is of poor quality. No problem where it doesn't go around a bend, but on the rear shift it will first take up the slack, then move your derailleur. LTK023 has the same problem. The liner is almost as soft as a rubber hose. I can not get all of the 10 rear shifts properly working.

LTK023 Chinese Carbon 29er Video Review - YouTube

The fix is to use external routing with stick on holders, or to reroute the internal routing with a Jagwire Ripcord 4mm housing for example. This will give you a sealed routing option.
 

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I once had a Klein Q-Pro with internal routing. The first time I set it up I managed to cross the front der cable and the rear der cable inside the downtube. This had some interesting effects. Shifting the front from the inner ring to the outer ring caused the rear der to move as well and caused some pretty funky shifting issues. I would release the cable from the front der completely and then check the compression/stretch of the rear der cabling. If the compression/stretch is no longer present your problem is remedied. While this may not be your specific issue, it would be great to rule it out.
PK
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The inner routing is of poor quality. No problem where it doesn't go around a bend, but on the rear shift it will first take up the slack, then move your derailleur. LTK023 has the same problem. The liner is almost as soft as a rubber hose. I can not get all of the 10 rear shifts properly working.
This is what I'm afraid of. People here keep taking about ferrels, but though I have ordered some extras and will try again, my feeling and observations point in the direction of a compressable inner tube, not lack of ferrels, (I have already tried with one ferrel in the frame hole where it was possible to insert one)

Very good video.

The fix is to use external routing with stick on holders, or to reroute the internal routing with a Jagwire Ripcord 4mm housing for example. This will give you a sealed routing option.
I'm afraid that if I start drilling this in order to reroute it, the problems might stack up. I'm espesially worried about removing the already existing inner rubber liner and replacing that with a regular 4mm outer cable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I once had a Klein Q-Pro with internal routing. The first time I set it up I managed to cross the front der cable and the rear der cable inside the downtube. This had some interesting effects. Shifting the front from the inner ring to the outer ring caused the rear der to move as well and caused some pretty funky shifting issues. I would release the cable from the front der completely and then check the compression/stretch of the rear der cabling. If the compression/stretch is no longer present your problem is remedied. While this may not be your specific issue, it would be great to rule it out.
PK
This is not the case here, unless they did so from the factory, as the internal cablehousing is fixed in the frame already.
 

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Regardless of the quality of the inner housing(that may be part of your problem), I promiss you, it will not work right without ferrules everywhere your housing terminates.
 

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Now I ordered this ferrule (BOT012BJ), so then I will eventually find out if this solves my problem.
It is not just the ferrules but how you setup and tune the derailleur. You probably already know this but even I forget these steps after wrenching on my own bikes for 15 years. It is a very common mistake to skip to step four before completing steps 1-3.

1. With cable unattached, set the limit on the derailleur. I like to turn the limit screw until it changes the gear and then back off the screw until it seats in the smallest cog. I will then fine tune the limit based on sound and sight.
2. Screw the barrel adjuster on the shifter all the way in, then back out one full turn.
3. Shift the derailleur all the way down.
4. Attach the rear derailleur cable while eliminating as much slack in the line as possible.
5. (this is the step where you eliminate/compensate any flex/stretch in the cables) Shift up one gear on the cassette. If you are unhappy with the shift, adjust the barrel adjuster a little at a time until you are happy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
While these are very good rules, errors in procedures of adjusting the derailleur are not the issue here. Referring to point #4, when I eliminate as much slack as possible, I build up quite a lot of backforce in the wire, which will upshift the derailleur. This is because the wire through the internal routing behaves like a rubber band.
 
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