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Action Sports Trader
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone have this problem? Every time I ride up a steep hill and hammer the pedals there is a chattering noise in the rear of the bike. It sounds like the rear end is loose, but I have checked all of the pivots and that is not the case. I'm also having a hard time with the rear of the bike following the front tire around turns. I turn the front wheel and the rear just does not follow. Is this my head angle being off or is it a characteristic of the bike? The steering should be quick and snappy but it is slow and very unsnappy.

Sam
 

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Now with flavor!!
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What fork and headset do you have on it?

My chain rattles in my front derailleur but that's the only noise I get.
 

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I doubt it's anything too serious if you've checked all nuts and bots are tight.

My chaine slaps like a b*st*rd, so it might be that, or it could be cables slapping against your frame as the suspension compresses.
 

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Penny's my cow-cat
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303 Posts
Ditto

My chain rattles in my front derailleur too, plus I had a little cable slap that I fixed by tying it down. Try putting some inner tube around your seat stay near the cog area, that might help a bit too. :cool:
 

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Action Sports Trader
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389 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Running a 66sl

I'm running a 66SL with a cane and creek headset. I have the fork in the 150mm setting so the steering should be right on. I'm not sue what the problem is with the steering.

Sam
kidwoo said:
What fork and headset do you have on it?

My chain rattles in my front derailleur but that's the only noise I get.
 

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Action Sports Trader
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389 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Rear shock

No, the rear shock is not stuck down. I have a Roco on it but just sent it in to get fixed. The rebound did not work at all on it so I hope that was the problem.

SAm
david101372 said:
Is your rear shock stuck down?
 

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Now with flavor!!
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samanderson4 said:
I'm running a 66SL with a cane and creek headset. I have the fork in the 150mm setting so the steering should be right on. I'm not sue what the problem is with the steering.

Sam
It still sounds like you're riding a bike that's slacker than what you're used to. I've got a maverick fork and a zero stack headset on mine and I think mine is "right on". I know yours is higher with that setup for whatever that's worth.

Still don't understand the chattering though.
 

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Rattling:
Try tightening your cassette

Handling:
Negative air at 110psi; positives at 20. You gotta get that 66SL shortened up, it tends to be pretty tall if you aren't "right on" with your air pressures. Measure from the fork seal to the bottom of the crown. Mine rides better on the trail if the measurement is 150mm. My first rides were at 170mm and it didn't handle the slow technical stuff as well as my VPX.
 

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Action Sports Trader
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389 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I don't think it is slacker

I don't think it is slacker. My last bike was a VP-Free and that had a pretty slack head angle. I'm not really sure what it is.
kidwoo said:
It still sounds like you're riding a bike that's slacker than what you're used to. I've got a maverick fork and a zero stack headset on mine and I think mine is "right on". I know yours is higher with that setup for whatever that's worth.

Still don't understand the chattering though.
 

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Old school BMXer
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Two things:
I don't know what tires you're running, but if you're running an overly wide and heavy front tire and tube, that will greatly reduce the steering response. Even some types of tires steer slowly.

The rear tire should never follow in the prints of the front tire in turns. Inherently, the rear tire will always take an inside line to the front tire.:confused:
 

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Action Sports Trader
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389 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I see what you are saying

Yeah,

I see what you are saying, but my situation is different. I'll be riding down a trail, at speed, and have to make a hard right turn. When I make this turn, my front wheel is pointed in the direction that I want to go but the rear wheel still want to go forward. So it's like i'm still going forward with my front wheel turned at a 90 degree angle to the trail.

SAm
Blaster1200 said:
Two things:
I don't know what tires you're running, but if you're running an overly wide and heavy front tire and tube, that will greatly reduce the steering response. Even some types of tires steer slowly.

The rear tire should never follow in the prints of the front tire in turns. Inherently, the rear tire will always take an inside line to the front tire.:confused:
 

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Action Sports Trader
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389 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Roco size

The Roco is a 2.0. I'm loosing .65" of travel but that travel I am loosing is more than made up by the plushness of the Roco. I'd rather have 6" of the best feeling travel than 6.75" of just OK travel. The only complaint I have about it is the bobbing when I go up hill. I thought the virtual pivot eliminated almost all bobbing when pedaling. At lease the way VP technology is advertised leads me to believe that there is no pedal feedback no matter what shock you run. BS. Well, besides my little gripes, I love the bike bike and the feel and recommend a Roco for a 6.6.

SAm
SkullCrack said:
Is your Roco the right size? I looked at the Marz website and they don't list a 7.875 x 2.25 model. The closest they list is a 7.875 x 2.0.
 

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suspension whore
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702 Posts
samanderson4 said:
The Roco is a 2.0. I'm loosing .65" of travel but that travel I am loosing is more than made up by the plushness of the Roco. I'd rather have 6" of the best feeling travel than 6.75" of just OK travel. The only complaint I have about it is the bobbing when I go up hill. I thought the virtual pivot eliminated almost all bobbing when pedaling. At lease the way VP technology is advertised leads me to believe that there is no pedal feedback no matter what shock you run. BS. Well, besides my little gripes, I love the bike bike and the feel and recommend a Roco for a 6.6.

SAm
by changing the stroke you are changing where the bike sits in its s curve which effects the handling characteristics of a vpp bike- ie, the bobbing you are complaining about.

Did you speak to the tech guys at intense before you swapped out your shock?
I'm guessing they dont recommend it due to the handling problems you are talking about.
My foe VAN 36 has the same A-C as your marz 66sl when you have it set at 150mm of travel and it dosnt feel to steep or slow when climbing or descending.
The bike is bob free when climbing with the pro pedal off with the dhx air, -- except when I get out of the seat and mash.
 

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Action Sports Trader
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389 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Right shock

It's the right shock. The only thing you have to worry about is the eye to eye length which is the same. The stroke only affects the amount of travel, so my geometry is not affected. This is all from Marzocchi and the dealer. The dealer I bought the bike from is riding the same setup. I think my problem in the begining was that the rebound on my shock was broken, thus causing excessive bobbing.

Sam
matthew said:
by changing the stroke you are changing where the bike sits in its s curve which effects the handling characteristics of a vpp bike- ie, the bobbing you are complaining about.

Did you speak to the tech guys at intense before you swapped out your shock?
I'm guessing they dont recommend it due to the handling problems you are talking about.
My foe VAN 36 has the same A-C as your marz 66sl when you have it set at 150mm of travel and it dosnt feel to steep or slow when climbing or descending.
The bike is bob free when climbing with the pro pedal off with the dhx air, -- except when I get out of the seat and mash.
 

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suspension whore
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702 Posts
samanderson4]It's the right shock. The only thing you have to worry about is the eye to eye length which is the same. The stroke only affects the amount of travel, so my geometry is not affected.

good to know
did you end up swapping out your 650 lbs spring?
what did you end up and did you notice a change in performance?
why the rooco v a DHX or cane creek?
 

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rain rain go away...
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1,195 Posts
The amount of sag is supposedly very critical on a VPP bike and i'm not talking percentage here... actual numbers as in inches (or mm). so calculate your 30% sag (i think this is the number) as if you're on the original shock and travel... and use that on your new shock w/ less stroke.

has the bike been like that since new or after the shock was swapped?
 

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Action Sports Trader
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389 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Shock choice

I choose a Roco over the DHX because I'm more of a DH/Freerider than an all mountain type rider. My last 5 bikes that I have owned have been DH oriented bikes. The Roco gives the bike more of a DH suspenion feel than either one of the shocks you mentioned, so I feel a little more at home. It feels like an Avalanch shock on the rear of the bike. What I'm giving up on the climbing/bobbing aspect of the shock I'm more than gaining on the smoothness of the shock on the downhill/fun part. It's more of a lite weight, short travel DH bike than an all-mountain bike. I have a 400lbs sping on it now.

Sam
matthew said:
samanderson4]It's the right shock. The only thing you have to worry about is the eye to eye length which is the same. The stroke only affects the amount of travel, so my geometry is not affected.

good to know
did you end up swapping out your 650 lbs spring?
what did you end up and did you notice a change in performance?
why the rooco v a DHX or cane creek?
 
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