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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How important is it to chase and face the bb shell? I had always read it was very important but I've had 4 bike shops in my area tell me they never do it when building up bikes. The most reputable mechanic I know personally said the tool was too expensive so he never bothered and has yet to have any problems. I've changed out bb's before but never installed one on a new frame. I want to use a race face x-type if it makes any difference.
 

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jbordwine said:
How important is it to chase and face the bb shell? I had always read it was very important but I've had 4 bike shops in my area tell me they never do it when building up bikes. The most reputable mechanic I know personally said the tool was too expensive so he never bothered and has yet to have any problems. I've changed out bb's before but never installed one on a new frame. I want to use a race face x-type if it makes any difference.
Well it is advised by most crank manufactures for X type. Truvativ told me facing for an ISIS wasn't a bad idea. Some frames come factory faced. My LBS told me they could chase & face my BB for $15. I would find an LBS w/ the tool & have it done - having a new crankset fail would suck.
 

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jbordwine said:
How important is it to chase and face the bb shell? I had always read it was very important but I've had 4 bike shops in my area tell me they never do it when building up bikes. The most reputable mechanic I know personally said the tool was too expensive so he never bothered and has yet to have any problems. I've changed out bb's before but never installed one on a new frame. I want to use a race face x-type if it makes any difference.
First determine if your frame needs facing. If the frame is new and the BB shell faces are shiny smooth with no trace of paint on the Drive Side (DS), then it's likely been faced by the manufacturer. If it has paint on it, or you're hanging new parts on an old frame, it should be faced. Some conditions apply. If you're using a BB that has an adjustable chainline (no shouldered cup on the DS) then you don't need to face the shell. IF you're using a BB that uses a shouldered cup on the DS, then you should face the DS only and leave the paint intact on the non-drive side (NDS). If you're using a BB with external cups (new shitmano or X type) then you should face both sides of the shell. In all cases you should chase the threads in the BB shell if you have any tight spots or resistance to inserting your BB cups.

Any "pro" mechanic who tells you that you don't need to C&F your shell because the tool is too expensive is definitely not "pro." Run away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
DWF said:
First determine if your frame needs facing. If the frame is new and the BB shell faces are shiny smooth with no trace of paint on the Drive Side (DS), then it's likely been faced by the manufacturer. If it has paint on it, or you're hanging new parts on an old frame, it should be faced. Some conditions apply. If you're using a BB that has an adjustable chainline (no shouldered cup on the DS) then you don't need to face the shell. IF you're using a BB that uses a shouldered cup on the DS, then you should face the DS only and leave the paint intact on the non-drive side (NDS). If you're using a BB with external cups (new shitmano or X type) then you should face both sides of the shell. In all cases you should chase the threads in the BB shell if you have any tight spots or resistance to inserting your BB cups.

Any "pro" mechanic who tells you that you don't need to C&F your shell because the tool is too expensive is definitely not "pro." Run away.
The shell has paint on it so I'm positive its not been faced. The threads "LOOK" very clean but I have not tried to insert the cups yet. I've called around and found a shop but it looks like I'm going to have to drive about 2 hours to get there! I just wanted to make sure its something that most definitely needs to be done rather than just an optional procedure.
 
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