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prawny
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74 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Happy holidays y'all!

-- got a question...

Already checked the FAQ. I KNOW once I figure this out I'm gonna feel retarded for asking...

Can anyone point me to some info re how to use chaintugs intelligently? Readjusting the tug screws every time ya remove/replace the wheel...???? PITA.

I sense I'm missing something, something obvious.

Spin me, point me... please. Thankx.
 

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ieeee! said:
Happy holidays y'all!

-- got a question...

Already checked the FAQ. I KNOW once I figure this out I'm gonna feel retarded for asking...

Can anyone point me to some info re how to use chaintugs intelligently? Readjusting the tug screws every time ya remove/replace the wheel...???? PITA.

I sense I'm missing something, something obvious.

Spin me, point me... please. Thankx.
I thought you had a Vulture, with EBB. Guess not. Is this for a different rig than you had at BC this fall?
Since I just started SSing just before BC, and I have a EBB, I have no solid info for you specific to tuggs; BUT in general, you want to pull the wheel (or BB, if it's an EBB one has) to the point of tension such that you can push the chain down with your finger pressing moderately from above about 1/2" vertically when in the "tight" part of your chainring rotation. This assumes that the wheel is firmly fastened and all the other parts are too. Please note that there are very few (if any) truly round chainring/crankarm/BB combinations in existence. You will have to experiment to find this spot.
Good luck, and feel free to PM me if you have any further questions on this .

Ya wanna brand on that? Brandmaster T
 

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prawny
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74 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Mudflaps said:
I thought you had a Vulture, with EBB. Guess not. Is this for a different rig than you had at BC this fall?
Since I just started SSing just before BC, and I have a EBB, I have no solid info for you specific to tuggs; BUT in general, you want to pull the wheel (or BB, if it's an EBB one has) to the point of tension such that you can push the chain down with your finger pressing moderately from above about 1/2" vertically when in the "tight" part of your chainring rotation. This assumes that the wheel is firmly fastened and all the other parts are too. Please note that there are very few (if any) truly round chainring/crankarm/BB combinations in existence. You will have to experiment to find this spot.
Good luck, and feel free to PM me if you have any further questions on this .

Ya wanna brand on that? Brandmaster T
Thankx for the reply Brandmeister.

Yup I do have a Vulture, w EBB. Pretty much set it & forget it. Happy. And yup, I had the Vulture at BC this fall.

My question regards a different bike, w horiz drops & chaintugs. Haven't quite gotten the hang of that system, yet. Or maybe I just need to get used to it.
 

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prawny
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74 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
shiggy said:
Just loosen the skewer or axle nuts enough to let you slide the tug out on the axle and clear the frame.
...without messing w the tug adjustment screws... ok. I should've *seen* that.

Thankx!

It feels kinda like I peeked at the answers.
 

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prawny
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74 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thanks, and an observation

shiggy said:
Let me know if you need pics.
Thankx. I think I got the idea.

Needed to swap one of the fixed cogs for freewheel, so I gave it a go... worked like a charm.

Chaintugs are cool!

g

Oh, one more observation. This one re freewheel. Pedaling is in the thread-tightening direction, so freewheel needs no lockring, yes? I mean... no?
 

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ieeee! said:
Thankx. I think I got the idea.

Needed to swap one of the fixed cogs for freewheel, so I gave it a go... worked like a charm.

Chaintugs are cool!

g

Oh, one more observation. This one re freewheel. Pedaling is in the thread-tightening direction, so freewheel needs no lockring, yes? I mean... no?
You are the BIG WINNAH! No lockring needed.
Freewheels are self tightening. I like to use anti-sieze (1st choice, available at auto parts stores) or grease on the threads so it comes back off later.

Cheers;

T
 
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