[Funoutside]

I need to replaced my 50t ring on my sram 50/34 group set. Question is since i am running a 10spd do I need get a 50t in a 10speed setup? It's a 110mm size if that makes any difference. Any suggestion on a good budget 5 bolt 48t or 50t in 110mm size?

Related question, I am noticing I can get an FSA 170mm branded crankset for about the same price as the chainring itself. The one I have is Sram Rival branded. What advantage if any would there be to moving to the FSA and to a 170mm size?

 

[Lone Rager]

110 is the bolt circle diameter (bcd) of the crank spider for mounting the rings. New rings need to match the BCD and pattern (4 arm, 5 arm, hidden bolt...) of the spider.
170mm is the length of the crank arms. Most common is 172.5mm for road. Most people are not sensitive to crank arm length.

You can use 11 speed chainrings on a 10 speed drivetrain with no issues at all. Small and big rings are usually matched in that the design and placement of the lift pins and ramps on the back of the big ring depend on the phasing of the small ring. Big rings usually have the size of the associated small ring stamped or printed on them. That said, you can get by with mismatched rings. The just won't up shift quite as cleanly.

Small rings are cheap because they are very simple. Big rings have much more complicated machining, lift pins, and cosmetic elements so are much more expensive.

 

[Funoutside]

double post delete plz.

 

[Funoutside]

I have a 5 arm/bolt 110mm crank. I thought that 110mm or other number meant spacing between the bolts, as I've used a tool that measures the spacing between the bolts.

Any suggestions on a budget chainring? Or would I be better off replacing my whole crankset cost-wise? As aforementioned I am seeing FSA cranksets going for about the same price as the 50t chainring I need. I am running a Sram Rival crank so I dunno if an FSA 170mm crank would be better(lighter/better built) than a Rival branded one or not. Thank you.

 

[Harold]

Replacement chainrings can be expensive. I've encountered the situation in the past where replacing the shifty chainrings on my basic non-series Shimano road crank was about twice as expensive as purchasing a whole new crank (better model, with rings included). Sorta like the situation with printers...where new ink cartridges can cost more than a whole new printer. Doesn't make any damn sense.

A Rival crank is a reasonably good quality crank, so I don't see much point in replacing the whole thing. Especially not with a crank that's probably a lower end model. You can find a replacement 5 bolt 110bcd 50t chainring just about anywhere. And inexpensive ones exist.

 

[Funoutside]

I can get a replacement one for around $50, but trying to see if any 3rd party options might be lower cost, but just as good. The crankset I saw was a FSA Gossamer(sp?) Pro(i think pro) for around the same price.

 

[fmendes]

I can get a replacement one for around $50, but trying to see if any 3rd party options might be lower cost, but just as good. The crankset I saw was a FSA Gossamer(sp?) Pro(i think pro) for around the same price.

Like this one?
https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-5750-110mm-10spdcompact-chainring/dp/B0064QIFOM

Took me 5 seconds to google.

 

[Funoutside]

For some reason that didn't show up on amazon for me thank you. Is that the right width size, cause I was told that might be an issue?

 

[Funoutside]

Local bike co-op had a 50t chainring in very good shape that I replaced the bad one with. They also had like new long cage Sram GX derailleur for cheap and installed that too so I can get an 11-36t cassette. Really save some money going the co-op route and doing the work myself.

 

[fmendes]

Good that you solved.

About the link, just out of curiosity, I removed some of the Amazon tracking crap. Maybe the link will work now (although useless anyway):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0064QIFOM