Use the 3mm offset ring for a boost setup. Use the 6mm ring for non boost setup. This will keep things in check providing everything else is boost fit.
Yes, I know 3mm is the ring for boost. And only the 4.5mm outboard spacer for the BB. However I know this will still have the chainring close to the stay, and I think the chainline is going to be a little biased to the smaller cogs. Wolf Tooth recommends a chainline about 2mm biased to the smaller cogs, which is odd because others want it biased to the larger cogs...Use the 3mm offset ring for a boost setup. Use the 6mm ring for non boost setup. This will keep things in check providing everything else is boost fit.
Yes, flex is my main concern with being close to the stay, however I also want a good chainline...Regardless of published spec, locating the chainring as far inboard as possible is usually best ( chain tension is higher while climbing, in the larger cogs out back right - try to optimize for them).
I have put chainrings as close as 1mm from chainstay - but that was a very stout steel frame, and the nearest point of contact was a beefy steel plate yoke. You’ve already got it set up- take if for a spin and do some climbing sprints and a typical drop or two. If you haven’t flexed anything to the point of contact (paint rub), you’re good to go IMHO. I think you only need to worry about flex—— in the event of bent ring /catastrophic failure, it hardly matters if you started with 1mm or 8mm of clearance.
Yeah every little bit helps. Just make sure there's enough thread engagement on the cassette and enough high-limit adjust on the RD.Curious, too: has anyone used a small (1-2mm) spacer behind the 11sp cassette, like we did with 9/10's, in order to get a more optimal chainline...when moving the chain ring inward wasn't an option?
I may wrap some tape around the stay 3 or 4 times and check it out.You’ve already got it set up- take if for a spin and do some climbing sprints and a typical drop or two. If you haven’t flexed anything to the point of contact (paint rub), you’re good to go IMHO.
Thoughts? (actually 47mm with boost, plus the 2mm they recommend above is 49mm chainline. Wolf Tooth says 49-50mm is ideal unless you run plus tires and have tire/chain clearance issues.)Wolf Tooth said:You might ask, "Wait a minute. The center of 11 speed cassette is ~44mm from the centerline of a bike. Why isn't that used as the chainline?" Well, for proper shifting on a 1x setup you want to be at least ~2 mm to the outside (towards the small cogs) otherwise the chain will catch on the next bigger cogs when pedaling in the smaller cogs.
Boost Chainline and 1x Boost Chainring SelectionBoost Chainrings, Chainline and 1x Boost Chainring - science, explanation, and selection.www.wolftoothcomponents.com
Then your chain line is perfect.It's quiet and shifts perfect.