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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I originally had a dmr tensioner that would work for a short time but I always had problems. The last being a hard pedal would cause a pop noise from the chain (is this skipping or binding?) The dmr had very little play for adjustment and the chain stay would get in the way if I tried a push up mode.

The roller ended up breaking so I got a sury singulator hoping the spring tensioner would give a little bit more play for adjustably. Now I have chain skip when I apply even light pressure pedaling. I read the faq on here and did have an older chain ring so I just replaced that (chain and cog are relatively new) but have the same issue.

I'm running 32x16. Is this too small? As far as chainline the lbs put on the tensioner so I believe it is good. I was thinking of just trying an eno hub. Would that help give more chain wrap as compared to a tensioner. Would I need any more than the hub and just get it laced for my current rim?

Any advise appreciated. thanks
 

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Might be your free hub stripping out. A chain does't slip but a stripped out ratchet ring does. What hubs are you running?
 

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Have you tried to have the tensioner pushing upward instead of pushing down ? The surly shud come with 2 springs, the other one pushing upward. Worked on mine last time, since the chain would wrap more on the cog.
 

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Yep. Run the tensioner in push up mode, and if you can, change that cheap stamped steel cog for something like a Surly cog with taller teeth.
 

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It looks like maybe you could take a link out and run it in push up mode.
 

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He said the chain stay got in the way of the tensioner in push-up mode. It really sounds like an alignment problem. How noisy is your drivetrain when you spin the cranks with the bike off the ground? 32x16 is relatively small, but I don't know what your trails are like.
 

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If you can swing an ENO wheel, that would work best. It will give you more wrap around the cog and possibly solve the skipping issue.

Cheapest is probably taking out a link or using a half-link to get that chain a bit tighter.

Second cheapest is to find another (bigger?) gear combo. Bonus if you can make magic gear ratio work.

http://eehouse.org/fixin/formfmu.php

Most of those older frames have about a 16.75" chainstay. On my old bike, I have it set up with 33x17 and no tensioner needed. Rides great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the advise. It is 26" tire and I ride flat xc. Not sure of the year 2002 or 04 stumpjumper pro. I tried the DMR in push up but it didn't work. I can try the singulator push up but I'll probably have the same issue. I have the most fun on this bike so I get a little depressed having issues and I'm not bike mechanical savy enough. I'm leaning towards the eno just because I want a set and forget solution. I might try the larger gears to still get a 2:1 ratio but I'm scared to waste the money if it doesn't solve the issue. Would anyone be able to ball park the final cost of an ENO. $130 plus cost to build from my current rim?
 

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Dont forget the cost of a free wheel as well. You can get a cheap BMX free wheel as the nice White Industry ones are $75.00 and up. You would need to get the Eno Eccentric for chain tensioning. Looks like you have rim brakes so the disc caliper adapter would not be needed which will save some dough. I rocked the Eno Eccentric for many years and when I bought a SS specific frame I just bought the internals from White Industries to change the hub to a non Eccentric bolt on hub. I just built that same hub up into a 29" wheel a few weeks ago. The hub has been on 5 bikes and still looks brand new. You will need new spokes as well. You would be looking at almost $250.00 for all parts and labor at least.
 

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To add to TahoeSS's comments:

By that point, you might as well just buy a SS-specific frame. You should be able to pick one up for that much. Search for Redline Monocog frames, Surly 1x1, older On One Inbred, etc.
 

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That chain is pretty long. Take a link out of the chain and see if the tensioner works in push mode then. This your cheapest solution by far. And don't assume your chain line is correct because the LBS did the work. Your LBS employs humans too and humans can make mistakes. Read the post about using a bamboo skewer for calculating your chain line. You don't have to be a mechanic to figure this stuff out, so don't let that stop you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
OP -here.
I've had varying success with other solutions in the past so I like the suggestion of just buying a single speed frame. I didn't find anything with a quick cursory ebay search so I just bought an On One SS frame. I'm going to make this a project and learn to assemble my 1st bike.

Are these just regular horizontal bmx/track dropouts and if so I see they only support disk brakes. Should I have any concerns about the difficultly of lining up the brakes?

thanks
 

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Congrats...building your first bike is a great way to learn all about working on your own stuff, an important set of skills that can save your ride if you have a mechanical out on the trail. It's also a great way to save some cash, bike shop labor ain't cheap. For lining up your disc brake you are going to want to get your chain tension set and your wheel evenly set between the chainstays, then align your caliper with the disc mounted to the hub. If you are using a tug-nut on the drive side, as long as your wheel is straight in the frame it theoretically should line up everytime, but in my experience track ends are a little more fiddly than other SS compatible dropouts like sliders or rockers.
 
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