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Who are the brain police?
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There will be one unique answer per person. Generally use a wet lube if you ride where's its wet and a dry lube.. if its dry. Wet lubes are more tenacious and last longer, but make more of a mess.

If you ride in the nasty stuff, Pedros Synth is good.
If its pretty dry, Rock n' Roll is a good lube..
 

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Domestic Fowl
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869 Posts
I used to use a wax or parafin based lube. It worked well, but tended to build up quite a bit on components. I've since switched Finishline teflon "dry" lube. I like it quite a bit. Less messy than the parafin lubes.

As Loco said, in general, dry lubes work well in drier environments. Wet lubes work well in wetter environments. Wet lubes tend to accumulate dust in a dry dusty enviroments. Wet lubes help to displace water in the wetter environs.

FRC
 

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mad scientist
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Funny story...

My nieghbor was playing around with her old C'dale mountain bike the other weekend, it was making a nasty squeal eveyrtime she hit the brakes. Next thing I see is her heading out of the garage with a can of WD-40. Immediately I rushed to the bikes aid, putting myself in harms way between that vile spray and the poor innocent brake pads.

After a brief yelling of "keep that crap away from this bike!" she ran for cover... after the dust settled I explained the lovely benifits of using WD-40 on the bike (increased visits to the shop for chains, derailures, brake pads, etc...).

It was a close one, but today a bike was saved the horror of WD-40.

Oh, and I use White Lightening or Pedro's Ice Wax. Both work great in my area.
 

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Tri-Flow

My LBS recomended Tri-Flow and I use it and it seems to do good, I like finish line wet but it is hard for me to get any. So nobody said Tri-Flow so I guess all these five years I have been useing the wrong stuff ?
 

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Chain Saw bar oil...

No joke - I have been using chainsaw bar oil for some time. For one thing, it is relatively cheap - I think I paid $3 for a quart of it. The good stuff (Stihl) resembles honey in consistency, and sticks to the chain well in most conditions. The disadvantage is that it does attract a little bit of gunk, and I really find that it works best for the wet season when I tend to clean the chain/drivetrain after each ride. But when used sparingly, it works well in dry conditions too. I usually save a Triflow bottle to put it in to make it easier to apply. I have found cheap bar oils for $1.49/quart, and it works pretty well too. Ok, so I may be a little cheap... but I haven't had any problems with it, so I keep using it.
 

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KonaMan said:
My nieghbor was playing around with her old C'dale mountain bike the other weekend, it was making a nasty squeal eveyrtime she hit the brakes. Next thing I see is her heading out of the garage with a can of WD-40. Immediately I rushed to the bikes aid, putting myself in harms way between that vile spray and the poor innocent brake pads.

After a brief yelling of "keep that crap away from this bike!" she ran for cover... after the dust settled I explained the lovely benifits of using WD-40 on the bike (increased visits to the shop for chains, derailures, brake pads, etc...).

It was a close one, but today a bike was saved the horror of WD-40.

Oh, and I use White Lightening or Pedro's Ice Wax. Both work great in my area.
So, would there be anything wrong with using, say, a general purpose lbricant made for moving metal parts. Not WD40.
I picked up a small can of something or other in Walmart. It is in a spray can and sold where they have gun/ammo supplies, so I'm assuming it's designed to soften up friction and last awhile. Also, are there any "ingredients" contained in lubricants that I should generally stay away from? I know teflon-based lube is generally recommended, but how much in Chain / Bike-specifc lube in general is really plain hype vs sound decisions based on experience?

Thx.
 

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Old school, 3 in 1 oil for general lubrication.

kirrill said:
So, would there be anything wrong with using, say, a general purpose lbricant made for moving metal parts. Not WD40.
I picked up a small can of something or other in Walmart. It is in a spray can and sold where they have gun/ammo supplies, so I'm assuming it's designed to soften up friction and last awhile. Also, are there any "ingredients" contained in lubricants that I should generally stay away from? I know teflon-based lube is generally recommended, but how much in Chain / Bike-specifc lube in general is really plain hype vs sound decisions based on experience?

Thx.
Mostly it isn't critical. Fork seals are special and don't want to see ordinary grease or oil, but everything else is pretty normal. Any decent gun lube is fine. I'd avoid aerosol cans since there's no benefit to 'em and they cost a lot more.

Ron
 

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Amphibious Technologies
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3,472 Posts
Pedros Ice Wax or Dumond Tech green works very good. Dumond Tech lubes sold at bike shops are very expensive. Go to a motorcycle shop and you can get 10X more for the same price.
 

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what is the best method for putting chain lube on? I have the Prolink in the yellow bottle and I squirted some on yesterday before my ride. After my ride there was oil all over my frame.

Also, some have mentioned "greasing" other "points" on the bike. What exact points/parts need to be lubed? Can I use my prolink in doing so?

Thanks!
 

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Prolink bottle wastes lube

Progold, the makers of Prolink want you waste your lube by "squirting" it on your chain. Keep your eye out for some used dispenser (squeeze bottle with a small opening) that will let you drip a single drop on your link. It's tedius but that's all the lube you need. Even with that, you will have to use a paper towel/rag to wipe the chain dry by running your chain through it for several revolutions.

I personally use a medical syringe but not all people have a nurse for a spouse. Not all riders have a clean chain fetish like I do. :cool:

glenk
 

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Who are the brain police?
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-That's one drop per roller on the link. The side plates don't need anything, its the roller that needs the lube.

-I'm sure that's what you meant, but I'm just being specific for any noobs..
 
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