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This must be discussed earlier, but couldn't find anything with search...

So, how should I set chain lenght with 22-24-bashguard and 11-34 rear cog? I think that classic big ring-big cog+2 links gives too short chain. Maybe chain on 11 on cog, 22 on chainset, and some tension on rear mech??

I would really appreciate, if someone with good experience, would give some information about this.

Thank You All!
 

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It seems to imply in the OP that you still have the chain going thru the derailleur when you are sizing the chain. Do not do that; I've seen one or two other posts around here recently where people do that when sizing a chain using the "big-big+2" method - they claim it works, but that is not how that technique is supposed to be done.

The Park Tools link Steve gave is very good. The big-big+2 method is simple and works very well. Don't thread the chain thru the rear derailleur when you do it that way though.

Cheers, Chris
 

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Pushead said:
This must be discussed earlier, but couldn't find anything with search...

So, how should I set chain lenght with 22-24-bashguard and 11-34 rear cog? I think that classic big ring-big cog+2 links gives too short chain. Maybe chain on 11 on cog, 22 on chainset, and some tension on rear mech??

I would really appreciate, if someone with good experience, would give some information about this.

Thank You All!
pushead-with sizing a a chain for two rings/bashguard; i recently did this, i was told here on my other thread that the classic big +big+2 links will work. It does seem kinda tight, also it can make a fat rear tire rub the chain a bit in the small ring because when in small ring/big cog, the chainline isn't straight but runs back at an angle towards the center of the wheel, and when the chain is tight the bottom jockey wheel wil be farther forward, effectively incrasing the angle of the chain towards the center. I talked to a gearhead about this and he said that when running this setup, you can either leave the chain the length it was when you had the big chainring on, or apply the bigbig+2 rule to the 2-ring setup(where the middle ring is now the "big" ring), or anywhere in between. tightening up the chain will result in less chain noise and fewer chainstay nicks when descending, but tightening it all the way will result in chain/tire rub when climbing. He said he usually compromises for the bashguard setup by routing the chain around the middle ring, around the big cog (bypass the rear derailleur, and make sure the suspension is pushed to wher it makes the chain longest), and adding 4-6 links. You may have to experiment a little. He highly recommend joining your chain (9-speed sram or shimano) with an sram powerlink (despite what sram says, it works just fine in shimano 9-speed)so its easy to disassemble; start with the chain long, test ride, and remove one link at at a time until you get the tension you want without it getting too tight. If anyone else has any info about this, please post. Also, by a "link"in my discussion i meant the smallest unit of chain (1",with a roller on each end); it's confusing because this is what most people mean when they say " link" but technically, according to chain makers a complete link is 2" with a roller at each end and one in the middle.
 
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