[SpinWheelz]

I may be having a bit of a dilemma with the chain on my Surly 1x1, I'm not sure. Maybe you lot can help a brother out.

With chain tugs in the dropouts, I had the chain tensioned with just a hint of slack, maybe a couple of milimeters. I found that when I really pounded down on tough climbs, there were times when I'd feel and hear a big 'clunk!', like a link was falling back into the chainring or cog after getting 'derailed' slightly. So, to combat that, I've moved the rear wheel back by a hair just to tighten up that chain a bit more and take out the slack. Thing is, the crankset doesn't spin so easily now.

Now, in the former situation, it feels like something's flexing somewhere so that the chain doesn't catch a tooth properly somewhere. Maybe it's the bottom bracket (it's a Truvativ square taper)? Maybe it's the crankset (Deore crankset with Spot chainring)? Maybe it's the steel frame? I have no idea what's plausible and what's not.

In the latter setup, I'm worried that I'm going to wreck bearings and stuff if this chain it too tight. Thing is, I'm not sure I can split the difference between the two - either there's a hint of chain slack and I get that 'clunk' once in a long while, or I get that sucker on tight and it's hard to pedal.

Anyone got any ideas? Any tips on what I ought to be setting this thing up it's *tight enough*?

 

[nogearshere]

if there is trouble moving the drive train or you can 'feel' the chain engaging in the cog/ring then it is likely tooo tight. you can damage the associated bearings and drivetrain if it is too tight.

i would suggest looking at chain, cog and ring wear for another reason for the clunking slipping feeling. also don't forget to check...
freewheel or freehub - perhaps you need service or replacement...might not be engaging properly.
bottom bracket - gonzo? the last time i got that sound and feeling the bb was blown. loosen the chain and check if the cranks have movement, in directions they shouldn't have of course.

in fact the longer it takes me to type i am leaning towards the latter not any of the formers.

good luck.

 

[desurfer]

I run vertical drops and a Rollenlager so this might not help you, but I have my chain fairly loose. Probably 3/4 inch slack. It might be too much, but I've only derailed it once so far. The urethane roller has sidewalls that keep it in line. I'd rather run it too loose than too tight and just deal with the occasional clunk (I get them too). I think it's the BB, mine is about shot and I'm going to get a new one today.

 

[max-a-mill]

are you sure it is still a little slack at its tightest spot?

on my commuter my chain definitely has a tight spot and a loose spot depending on the crank postion.

just make sure it is only tight enough on the tightest spot in the cranks location. if you tension it at a looser spot, when the chain ring gets aroud to the tight spot the chain will be way too tight.

if you can't backpedal freely your chain is too tight.

that exact noise you described happened to me once as well (on the first or second ride on my niner) but has never happened again. maybe it is just new parts meshing together.

 

[pitmang1]

I had the exact same problem with my 1x1. It turns out that a new White freewheel (yeah, I know it's pricey) and thought that my problems were solved. I was wrong, I had the chain so tight that my cranks didn't want to spin so freely. Like climbing with your brakes on. After snapping a chain, I put on a new one and kept it much looser than I had before (just under an inch of play) It is just tight enough to not come off, but won't bind up. That loud popping noise is probably your freewheel, my ACS freewheels used to make really scary clunking noises that sounded like a hammer hitting my steel frame. My LBS also told me to make sure that my BB was spaced correctly to keep that chainline straight, But I'm using an external Race Face setup. Hope this helps

 

[Sparticus]

If you haven't already done so, check your cog and ring for bent or worn teeth that might be doing the "catch and release" thing on your chain.

But I doubt that's the problem. Anyway, everything else has already been covered in previous suggestions.

--Sparty

 

[FoShizzle]

what chain are you running? I had what sounds to be a similar problem when I tried to run a 1/8" BMX chain.....it simply did not flex laterally such that it sounded like it would pop at times. Switched to 3/32" chain and problem solved....just a thought.

 

[gofast]

What Sparty Said

I had a similar "clunking" noise, and found a tooth on the chainring was not machined down. This caused the chain to ride a little high on that particular spot of the chain ring. Anytime I pushed really hard.."clunk"!

 

[SpinWheelz]

I'm using an 8-speed chain on this, so I've got the 3/32" option covered. I've eyeballed the chainline and it's pretty friggin' straight. Now, this 'clunk' noise has happened maybe twice in the last 20 times or so I've ridden the bike. And both times were from a standing start. I've tried letting up the tension a hair from the tight setup that I had. Will try some burly climbs and see where I net out.

Cheers, fellas.

 

[Sparticus]

I'm using an 8-speed chain on this, so I've got the 3/32" option covered. I've eyeballed the chainline and it's pretty friggin' straight. Now, this 'clunk' noise has happened maybe twice in the last 20 times or so I've ridden the bike. And both times were from a standing start. I've tried letting up the tension a hair from the tight setup that I had. Will try some burly climbs and see where I net out.

Cheers, fellas.

After reading this thread once more, I kinda think pitmang1 might be onto something. Could be one of the pawls in your freewheel is gettin' down the road to pawl heaven.

Could be, anyway. Eh?

--Sparty

...That loud popping noise is probably your freewheel, my ACS freewheels used to make really scary clunking noises that sounded like a hammer hitting my steel frame....

 

[SpinWheelz]

Whoops, should've clarified this earlier. I'm not using a freewheel. It's a single cog sitting on a freehub, tightly held in place spacers.

 

[rpet]

freehubs have pawls that wear out, just like freewheels. Unless you're on a CK hub or something with a non-standard drive mechanism.

I like my chain as loose as possible; just tight enough to keep it from bouncing off.

-r

 

[kiwirider]

are you sure it is still a little slack at its tightest spot?

on my commuter my chain definitely has a tight spot and a loose spot depending on the crank postion.

just make sure it is only tight enough on the tightest spot in the cranks location. if you tension it at a looser spot, when the chain ring gets aroud to the tight spot the chain will be way too tight.

if you can't backpedal freely your chain is too tight.

that exact noise you described happened to me once as well (on the first or second ride on my niner) but has never happened again. maybe it is just new parts meshing together.

Why does the chain get tighter depending on the cranks location? I've noticed this on my Kona Unit.

Is this becuse the front chainring is not excatly round, or is not mounted perfectly central to the bottom bracket axis?

 

[Miker J]

I can't imagine...

that a "slightly tight" chain would create a significant amount of friction on the rear hub. Especially when compared to either the pedalling forces or vertical forces inflicted on the rear hub under even normal riding circumstances.

Mike

 

[Ojai Bicyclist]

Chains usually have loose and tight spots because the chainring isn't quite centered on the holes. You can loosen the chainring and wiggle the chain as you move the cranks to center it and then tighten the chainring bolts again.