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I am running 1x9 setup. I have been experiencing chain drop in rocky sections at high speeds. I am using Truvativ SS cranks with bash guard and a Third Eye Chain watcher. Any suggestions? Any experience with chain guides?

Thanks for any info,

Mike B
 
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get rid of the third eye and try a N-gear Jumpstop.

better design.

if setup right you won't have any problems.

if that isn't good enough you can always get the Rholoff one, but neither of my bikes drop the chain through fast/hard/rough rock gardens (6" Specialized Enduro and Niner SIR9)

both of my bikes have Spot Brand Ring Guards and N-Gear Jumpstops (both bikes also have med. cage RD's)


another tip is to make sure you have shortened your chain appropriately and crank down the screw on the RD that sets chain tension.
 

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If you are not already, run no larger than a medium cage derailer. I have not dropped the chain once running a Surly SS ring, 3rd Eye chain guide, Sram Med cage r.d. with the chain shortened as much as possible. I don't run a bashring either.
 

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Make sure your chain is as short as possible. Put it in the big cog and stretch that der. all the way out! A shorter chain has less weight to get thrown around and you'll have a bit more tension on it with the der. streched out.
 

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when I raced 1x8 gears in cross I used a front der. sans cable and set it as low as posible to the chain. I found a sweet spot where it wouldn't rub regardless of the chainline.

This kept the chain in place on rough decents and with repeated drops after barriers (I know shouldn't drop but 'place' the bike down but am still working on technique).

Not the most elegant to be sure but... it worked and was cheap as I had a spare front der.
 

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I'm running 1x9 on the Juice

36T, 11x32 w/ Sram long cage

I was dropping the chain until I shortened the chain a couple links and now seems to be doing alright.....

I don't understand why the short cage der is recommended...seems to me that the long cage would take more slack from the chain, more leverage to pull chain tighter, right?

longer cage=longer lever
 

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I've noticed that as my chain get older, the more side to side play there was, leading to more chain drops. When new, or within the first couple 100 miles, it stayed on really well. This was with a DA7800 rr der.

I didn't like the look of a ft der on there, and tried a inside guard and bash. By then, those two weighed more than a ft der. That always sat with me.

I have a few more months yet before i need to sort out my next 1x9 bike.

I do agree that the N-gear design looks like it will solve the problem on the inside.
 

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happygofun said:
when I raced 1x8 gears in cross I used a front der. sans cable and set it as low as posible to the chain. I found a sweet spot where it wouldn't rub regardless of the chainline.

This kept the chain in place on rough decents and with repeated drops after barriers (I know shouldn't drop but 'place' the bike down but am still working on technique).

Not the most elegant to be sure but... it worked and was cheap as I had a spare front der.
That's what I do. Works well.
 

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A long cage is only required for triple setups, to wrap the 22 or 24 extra tooth difference for front+rear.
I used a 9spd Ultegra derailer with a 11-32 XT cassette successfully last sunday. I guess my derailer hanger is long enough for teh Ultegra to reach..
 

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jmw said:
I don't understand why the short cage der is recommended...seems to me that the long cage would take more slack from the chain, more leverage to pull chain tighter, right?

longer cage=longer lever
Longer cage = longer lever, and in this application, the chain is the force acting against the spring tensioning the derailleur cage.

As the chain is flung around on the rough stuff, a longer arm makes it easier to overcome the spring tension.

FWIW, XTR rear mechs are rumored to use stronger springs than XT (don't know 'bout SRAM) -- but the best setup would be XTR medium cage, or as Cloxxki mentioned, get a short cage road mech.
 
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