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MONKEYMAN
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791 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Voodoo bokor, sliders- running a 160mm disc with a dos eno FW 17/19.

I'll set the sliders to an appropriate amount of chain tension- maybe .5 inch. The cranks spin fast and fine, the wheel spins without issue. Slider bolts are nice and tighty.

Then after about 3 or 4 miles I notice that I'm starting to really drag ass. Check the tension and it's crazy tight, like I can barely pedal. Upend the bike and try to spin the back wheel and it only spins maybe once around. Too much tension seizing up the FW.

So this means the sliders/axle is slipping backwards- is this possible? The set bolts for the sliders are really tight and remain that way when I recheck. I tighten the bolts to the point where I'm nervous that I might break the allen wrench tip off in the bolt head.

Is it the disc causing the axle to slip back? Is it my massive-man legs blasting the axle back? WTF? I'm stumped. The only time I've heard of slippage is going the other way, loosening the chain.
 

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I ditched my VooDoo Dambala because I got tired of effing around with the sliding drops before, during, and after rides. I tried every method possible to cure the slide but nothing worked. It seemed like every time the rear brake was used, the brake side drop would move forward, eventually causing the tire to rub. I don't know what would cause it to move like yours though!
 

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Beefy bolts are good. You can also try putting the tensioner bolts in so their head is touching the dropout, which gives more load bearing surface. Also, once your dropouts are tight, really snug the tensioner bolts down, so the dropout cannot slide forward at all.

I love Voodoos by the way, and rode a Bantu for many years. It rode incredibly well.
 

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Did I catch a niner+?
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Has anything changed on your bike recently? It's pretty odd for a FW to bind like that especially a WI. If you are thinking it is still the FW, WI FW are insanely easy to take apart, I think there is even a guide on their site. If not just email them and they will send you one, I swapped the inner drive to a trails on my 20t and it took all of 5 minutes to do.

A disc could cause binding but I would think you would hear the caliper rubbing as you turn the wheel. If the drop out is sliding which I think would be pretty crazy can you take any more links out of the chain to prevent it from moving any further back?
 

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MONKEYMAN
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791 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Has anything changed on your bike recently? It's pretty odd for a FW to bind like that especially a WI. If you are thinking it is still the FW, WI FW are insanely easy to take apart, I think there is even a guide on their site. If not just email them and they will send you one, I swapped the inner drive to a trails on my 20t and it took all of 5 minutes to do.

A disc could cause binding but I would think you would hear the caliper rubbing as you turn the wheel. If the drop out is sliding which I think would be pretty crazy can you take any more links out of the chain to prevent it from moving any further back?
The issue was the slider moving backwards because of the disc- that made the chain too tight. When I would leave the house, everything would spin very freely, chain tension was perfect. By the time I'd ridden a few miles the chain would be so tight that the cranks took considerable effort to turn. Even backpedalling the cranks took effort to turn.

The hub is a Phil K.I.S.S. so no QR- just nice beefy bolts and gnurled caps biting into the sliders.

The solution was to ditch the disc and go back to the Paul's! So much less hassle. I just need to keep a spoke wrench with me to keep the rim true.

 

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MONKEYMAN
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791 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Uuuuuh...what the deuce is on your front wheel?
I suppose I am breaking rules with posting issues about a polo bike instead of a 'mountain bike'.

It's a wheel cover. Hard shots cause the ball to sail right through the spokes. The cover also prevents mallets and body parts from getting wedged into the wheel.

The back wheel is a 48 hole so doesn't need a cover.
 
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