Hey I have a quick question about CC headsets. so i got the Forty on my bike and when the handlebar is in completely even position it feels a bit locked there, so like a mechanism that makes it easier to ride straight forward. when i steer left and right i feel a tiny bit of resistance first. is that a normal feature of cc headsets or something wrong with my model
CC headset slightly locked
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There is no mechanism/feature that you describe.
Sounds like you have too much preload on the headset (maybe). The bolt on top cap puts a load on the bearing and removes the play in the headset. This should be snug but not overly tight. What your describing could be too tight.
Preload is adjusted with your stem bolts loosened so the stem can turn without turning your fork. It does not have to be super loose but should be able to turn without much effort. Once the stem is loose you adjust the preload by tightening/loosening the bolt on the top cap.
This need to be done by someone with experience, especially the tightening of the stem bolts. They should be torqued to spec.
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Keep watch of the headset, my recently new CC Forty needed re-tensioning a few times before settling in.
As far as I know, all ball bearing headsets are subject to wearing indents into the bearing races when at the same steering angle for any length of time. This has happened to me a few times on my road bikes. Setting the preload too tight accelerates the process, but setting it too loose causes other problems.
Indexed shifting was a great innovation; indexed steering, not so much.
At least with cartridge bearing headsets, you can replace the bearings without having to tear the headset shells out of the frame.
Indexed shifting was a great innovation; indexed steering, not so much.
At least with cartridge bearing headsets, you can replace the bearings without having to tear the headset shells out of the frame.
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1,643 Posts
Something thats sometimes an issue with cc headsets is the aluminum cone washer. Its an aluminum cone shim that sits between steertube and headset.
if you assemble headset but then tighten before that cone is fully seated then cone can seat against steertube before headset is tight. Then overtighten headset and cone moves on one side and is misaligned. Its locked super tight but not aligned, which is bad.
the cones are anodized blue so easy to tell if theyve been scuffed. If that cone is damaged then headset will never go together correctly.
my slamset was fine for a few months then started behaving strangely mid fall. Opened it was packed with mud and the pressure from the mud ‘sprung’ that cone washer into a spiral.
I think their instructions should be clear how important it is that the cone is tightly seatedduring assembly. I now use a mallot and a chopstick to tap it into place, then assemble rest of headset.
On my ss i have been through two 40, slamset and now using a 110. 110 has lasted 2 years of winter riding with zero issues, substantially more involved construction and better sealing than their others.
if you assemble headset but then tighten before that cone is fully seated then cone can seat against steertube before headset is tight. Then overtighten headset and cone moves on one side and is misaligned. Its locked super tight but not aligned, which is bad.
the cones are anodized blue so easy to tell if theyve been scuffed. If that cone is damaged then headset will never go together correctly.
my slamset was fine for a few months then started behaving strangely mid fall. Opened it was packed with mud and the pressure from the mud ‘sprung’ that cone washer into a spiral.
I think their instructions should be clear how important it is that the cone is tightly seatedduring assembly. I now use a mallot and a chopstick to tap it into place, then assemble rest of headset.
On my ss i have been through two 40, slamset and now using a 110. 110 has lasted 2 years of winter riding with zero issues, substantially more involved construction and better sealing than their others.
Joined
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3,125 Posts
The top cap is made up of 3 pieces.
cap
compression ring (cone thing)
seal / spacer
compression ring looks like this....you need to lightly pry it out of the cap with finger nail usually, sometimes grease keeps it sucked together....
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cap
compression ring (cone thing)
seal / spacer
compression ring looks like this....you need to lightly pry it out of the cap with finger nail usually, sometimes grease keeps it sucked together....
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