Pre weighing everything and precisely wetting the fabric out is one approach, but with wet layups, particularly with small parts like that it's better to use excess epoxy and screed or blot it back to near 1:1 (weighing to confirm).
When doing components like that I lay all the dry fabric out on a clean HDPE lined bench top, apply the resin with a plastic scraper, work it in to the fabric, then place layers of paper towels on top and roll over with a hard roller to blot up all the excess resin. Then lift up the pieces using the end of a small hobby knife or tweezers and place them in the mold one at a time. Sometimes it helps to paint the mold surface with a thin layer of epoxy first to make sure it's wetted out all over the surface - this helps to avoid air bubbles or overly dry spots against the mold.
For larger sheets of fabric, I use the same procedure, but place the over wet fabric in the vacuum bag with layers of paper towels for the drying out step.
Unlike glass, it's actually really hard to remove too much epoxy from carbon cloth, so the above techniques are pretty safe in terms of getting down to optimum resin ratio and not going too far, but if you're not chasing every last gram a bit of excess epoxy will make the layers a bit easier to get in the mold and consolidate against each other, so don't overblot the fabrics.
If the part has sharp external corners it helps to make up a "gelcoat" using colloidal silica and black tinter in some epoxy. This is filleted (using a gloved finger) into the sharp internal corners in the mold, allowed to harden slightly, then a new batch of resin is mixed for wetting out the fabrics. When you get this right, it's very hard to see where you've cheated with the gelcoat, and it also nicely hides areas like you pictured with the weave breaking apart. Many production frames use this technique around difficult areas.
Oldbikerider.
