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Thinking of getting the following for my new 575:

Easton EC70 MonkeyLite CNT XC Riser - MTB Carbon Black 660mm-1" Lo Rise-31.8
Apparently these bars are reinforced inthe brake and shifter clamp positions so..
was wondering if it's ok to use a set of Yeti Odi lockon grips or should i use push ons?

Big fan of carbon seatposts so much so i'll never use Al seatposts ever again but not too sure there are any benifits for bars other than weight?


Also fancying this stem or would people reccomend the non X4 type?:

Thomson Elite X4 MTB Stem 90mm 10 Deg 1.1/8" 31.8 Clamp BLACK

Any thoughts much appreciated.

Just test rode it tonight and everything works first time :) - only one click on the rear derail barrel adjuster and it was perfect. Only issue is the Formula The One brakes - I think out the box there is more air that Dot oil in em - low power with no leaver resistance and pumpin the leaver rapidly ramps up the lever resistance quickly = airlocked.
 

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EDR
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I've been using ODI lock on grips for a few years now on carbon bars. First was the RF Next and now the Monkeylite. It doesn't take much torque to keep the grips in place. BTW the X4 stem with the Monkeylite carbon bar is what comes on most build kits (and what I have) so no problem there.

The RF Next had an aluminum sleeve in the stem clamp area, not sure if the Monkeylite does or not.
 

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Another vote for the stock EC70 CNT and X4 stem.

Also using the lock-ons without issue on the bar, just clamp them with a sensible amount of torque and everything will be shiny.
 

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I've recently bought and installed some Monkey Lite XC's (31.8 but the high rise version), along with Thomson X4 90mm x 10deg stem and some Lizard Sking "Peaty" lock-on grips (ODI system)....



I've been on 3 good rides with them since installing and all I can say is that I'm completely satisfied! Feels great! Loving the grips. The 27" bar width I was weary at first but once riding, totally fine - great control on rough stuff. Super stiff. Nice damping properties too. The stem is just piece of art... and so solid - no flex whatsoever. Even had a couple spills (one where a small tree (like 1.5" dia) hit the bar/stem - no issues. I'm very confident in this setup.

I am keeping an eye on torques though (I'm just being cautious with the carbon bar), as things settle I make sure to torque things to spec before every ride. But as they settle in, most bolts are now keeping their torque so that's good. Grips bolts are so small couldn't use my torque wrench but they haven't loosened yet - those lock-on works quite well.

cheers
 

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RocketMagnet said:
Thinking of getting the following for my new 575:

Easton EC70 MonkeyLite CNT XC Riser - MTB Carbon Black 660mm-1" Lo Rise-31.8
Apparently these bars are reinforced inthe brake and shifter clamp positions so..
was wondering if it's ok to use a set of Yeti Odi lockon grips or should i use push ons?

Big fan of carbon seatposts so much so i'll never use Al seatposts ever again but not too sure there are any benifits for bars other than weight?

Any thoughts much appreciated.
I'm using this setup in my 575 and I feel it's spot on. But the 31.8 Lo is 685mm wide. You can use the Yeti Lockon on this bar. Just make sure you cover both ends with the plastic cap. Mine hit the ground and the cap protected the end of the bar from taking a major hit.

The carbon bars are better because they are more comfortable than alloy; they absorb the small impacts a lot better, making your ride smoother. Of course, they are also lighter. But that's just a bonus. ;)
 

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the train keeps rollin
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I have some Carbon Monkey Lites, they felt harsh to me, so damn stiff! My 7075 bars feel better. The carbon bars save about 100 grams over a like alloy bar though, so if your after weight savings, go 4 it. My biggest gripe about carbon bars is install, and up keep. You need to watch your torque, they scuff and scatch easily, then you start wondering is that a deep scratch, should I be concerned, it's all too much for me..
 

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Who is John Galt?
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Head wrench at my LBS gave me a tip on tightening carbon bars. He said to tighten screws a millimeter at a time until the bars no longer moved and then stop. His philosophy is most torque wrenches are so inaccurate they can't be trusted.
 

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Big Jim Mac said:
Head wrench at my LBS gave me a tip on tightening carbon bars. He said to tighten screws a millimeter at a time until the bars no longer moved and then stop. His philosophy is most torque wrenches are so inaccurate they can't be trusted.
that'll be why they are supposed to be periodically calibrated,torque is to make sure a group of bolts is the same tightness as much as not being overtightened
 
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