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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Yeti riders,

Picked up a Thomson dropper for my SB66C. Took it out for the first ride (bike too) yesterday and noticed that no matter how tight I crank the seat post clamp down it would not hold the seat post in place. Any recommendations?

Thanks
chikai
 

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I was having the same problem. Switched to a Salsa QR seat clamp and applied FinishLine carbon fiber grip paste...Going on 3 months without issue

KV
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks...will order soon. What size collar should I get for the SB66C? I took off the original and measured it, and it looks to be about 35mm. I'm guess 34.9mm?
 

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If you have a dropper, there's really no need for a QR. The Thompson seat post collar would probably look pimp with your setup with less grams, and it holds my Reverb in my ARC-C just fine (which I imagine is a similar carbon seat tube.)
 

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Another option is use a double clamp, with two differing size bolt clamps; one to keep it from sliding down the seat tube and the other is simply a redundant backup, to further assure the post makes zero micro movements. Effective and safe for carbon, as long as you follow the mfg torque specs....

double seatclamp.jpg
 

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I use a Hope 34.9 with carbon grip paste -- never a problem. If you've previously used a regular seatpost and greased it, be sure to clean out the inside of the seat tube. Hope collar is 19 grams, I got mine from Jenson
 

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FYI-Yetifan sells a Yeti logo Salsa QR.

Definitely use the Fibergrip. Be careful how much torque you use on the lever as you could easily exceed the specs and find your fancy new $400 seatpost doesn't work so well.
 

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That's a nice thing about a standard seat post collar compared to Q/R, at least you can measure the torque. With the fibergrip, the OP will probably be fine with whatever seatpost collar he already has.
 

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That's a nice thing about a standard seat post collar compared to Q/R, at least you can measure the torque. With the fibergrip, the OP will probably be fine with whatever seatpost collar he already has.
Who says you can't torque a QR seat post collar? Use a torque wrench initially on the hex bolt. Both Salsa and yeti QR seat clamps are setup this way. After initial torque, you will always have the correct torque every time you remove the seat post. QRs are also good if you have a dropper post. Lower seat first, then raise dropper post so you can have something to clamp on too if you use a work stand.
474043_Silver.gif
 

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I still don't get why anyone would bother using a quick release when you already have a dropper post? It makes no sense. Use a non-QR collar with grip paste.

Also, raising the bottom of the dropper to clamp onto isn't necessarily the best idea, since you could theoretically over-clamp and mess up the internals (that's directed at all the guys who freak out about where to clamp bikes on a work stand). And if you have an Lev, you won't have enough cable anyway...
 

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I still don't get why anyone would bother using a quick release when you already have a dropper post? It makes no sense. Use a non-QR collar with grip paste.

Also, raising the bottom of the dropper to clamp onto isn't necessarily the best idea, since you could theoretically over-clamp and mess up the internals (that's directed at all the guys who freak out about where to clamp bikes on a work stand). And if you have an Lev, you won't have enough cable anyway...
Yes, better to clamp on a $3000 carbon frame than on a aluminum dropper post body.
 

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I use a Thomson seat clamp on mine (like the team use), put some carbon paste on the post and clamp it down to only 2.8NM and never have a problem. Best seat clamp I've used.
 
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