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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is my favorite bike. It is a Cannondale 1FG with a Rohloff 14-speed disc Speedhub using a OEM-2 torque plate and Speedbone. The fork is 80mm air adjustable with lockout. The tires are Continental Explorers with Kevalar beads and Stans NoTubes. The front hub is Cannondale with a Mavic 223 rim. The rear rim is Mavic 717. The brakes are Avid mechanicals with Cannondale levers. The handlebar and seatpost are Easton carbon. Eggbeater pedals. Sigma wireless computer. ODI lock-on grips. WTB Laser V seat. The crank is Shimano Hollowtech with a bash ring and 38T front ring. The Rohloff hub has a 16-tooth gear. The gearing is the equivalent of a 27-speed Shimano setup with 22/32/42 front rings and a 12-33 cassette.

The bike as shown weighs 24 3/8 pounds on a postal scale. If I go to Hayes HFX9-XC hydraulic discs it will weigh 23.5 pounds. Changing the tires to Kenda Karma will drop the weight to about 23 pounds. The balance point on the bike is 2" FORWARD of the bottom bracket.

I put 35 psi in the tires and prefer it to my Titus Racer-X for the majority of my riding.
 

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I should learn more about Rohloff. I like the concept. Though nobody sell SpeedHubs here in Russia, I might want one. Does this worth the purchase and delivery (!) from Germany compared with usual derrailer systems?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It's the first Speedhub I've used..

Speedüb Nate said:
Holy moly that a sweet fargin' setup. Only thing missing is a pair of custom Hope rotors that say "14FG is ALL I Need". Makes me want to shave some weight off my my Buzz. Is it new to you? Congrats on the nice build!
I rode the 1FG last year and although I liked the single speed I found their were times I wanted a lower gear (long climbs) or a higher gear (long descents). Since the 1FG has a eccentric bottom bracket I thought a Rohloff would work great. The biggest problem I had making the conversion was deciding how to route the cables. I tried three different routes before settling on this one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I decided it was worth the price to get rid of derailleurs...

Vic said:
I should learn more about Rohloff. I like the concept. Though nobody sell SpeedHubs here in Russia, I might want one. Does this worth the purchase and delivery (!) from Germany compared with usual derrailer systems?
I was replacing derailleurs about twice a year, along with a cassette. I figure the Rohloff will pay for itself in 3 years and in the meantime I don't have to adjust derailleurs (front or rear), worry about shifting in muddy situations, or worry about shifting in time to handle fast changes in the terrain. It added about 2.25 pounds to the weight of the bike. By changing to hydraulic discs and lighter tires I can get the total increase down to 1 pound.
 

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rharriman said:
The biggest problem I had making the conversion was deciding how to route the cables. I tried three different routes before settling on this one.
Unfortunately the Avîd caliper is right in the way of the ideal chainstay routing. I don't know if it would be much different with other brands of disc brakes. I'm got my hardtail rigged similar to how yours is set up, and other than some funkiness around the chainstay I'm pretty happy with it. It's more appealing than the great big loop I've got to run on the seat stay routing on my full suspension bikes.
 

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rharriman said:
This is my favorite bike. It is a Cannondale 1FG with a Rohloff 14-speed disc Speedhub using a OEM-2 torque plate and Speedbone.
Very nice setup!

Could you possibly post a close up of how and where you mounted the speed changer for the Rohloff? There have been comments about difficulties in how and where to mount the speed changer. Also, I currently have a Bianchi SASS with Avid mechs and was wondering if the mounting including the rear disc would be similar. Hmmmm....
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The twist shifter on the handlebar or hub shifting mechanism?

The twist grip shifter on the handlebar is mounted on the right side just to the left of the shorty ODI grip similar to how any gripshift mechanism would be mounted. Because of the dual cables the brake lever needs to be positioned between the two cables.

If you are talking about the shifting mechanism at the hub, it is the small black box just below the left chainstay and rear skewer, that has two cables coming out of it. See pictures 1,3,4. There are only two places the shifting box will fit when using Avid mechanical disc brakes. The other place is to the rear of the disc caliper, above the rear skewer. This results in a longer cable run with a sharp bend that also tends to rub against the rear spokes. If you use Hayes hydraulic discs there is more room and you can get the shifting box one more position counter-clockwise that allows for a much better cable run and better protection for the shifting box. If I go to Hayes discs I will change my cable routing to that position.

I have a little experience with the SASS and I think your setup will have to be identical to mine. The only issue you will have will be that as you move the axle back in the horizontal slot to adjust for chain tension you will have to readjust the brakes. Also, on the SASS you might want to consider getting the OEM-1 axle plate which eliminates the need for the Speedbone.

Good luck!
 

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Thanks for the information

rharriman said:
The twist grip shifter on the handlebar is mounted on the right side just to the left of the shorty ODI grip similar to how any gripshift mechanism would be mounted. Because of the dual cables the brake lever needs to be positioned between the two cables.
I was asking about the twist grip shifter and found out that the problem was not mounting on mountain bike bars but on other street bike handlebars. That's fine for me.

rharriman said:
Also, on the SASS you might want to consider getting the OEM-1 axle plate which eliminates the need for the Speedbone.
That comment is a big help (not wild about the Speedbone) and I will gladly investigate this alternative.

BTW, the LBS said that one can (should?) get spokes from Rohloff for building up the rear wheel. Are the spokes needed any different? How did you do it? Did you buy the spokes from Rohloff or somewhere else? Did you build your own wheel or did you use your LBS? Possibly you bought the Rohloff already built in a wheel?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Rohloff spokes

SOLO_ONE said:
BTW, the LBS said that one can (should?) get spokes from Rohloff for building up the rear wheel. Are the spokes needed any different? How did you do it? Did you buy the spokes from Rohloff or somewhere else? Did you build your own wheel or did you use your LBS? Possibly you bought the Rohloff already built in a wheel?
My LBS built the wheel and used Wheelsmith spokes. I'm not sure where they got the spokes and they don't look any different, just shorter. The spokes have to be shorter than normal due to the large diameter of the Rohloff hub.
 

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Sorry to respond to a 7 year old post, but let me ask.... to install the rohloff hub on the 1FG was is necessary to modify the frame at all? Is this just a matter of a bolt on? I know to retrofit a rohloff to a traditional mtb frame requires modification or a special lever, does the same apply for the 1FG? Thanks!
 
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