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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Any tips or tricks for servicing a Cane Creek in line air?

I have a full seal kit, I have the wrench for the air can, I have clamp for the body head, I have nitrogen and nitrogen needle, and a vacuum bleeder!


No ifp, so no height to worry about, ifp pressure? Little googling says about 180 is that correct?

Oil safe to assume around 16 cst?

Any tricks or surprises or any other tools that maybe needed?
 

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Any tips or tricks for servicing a Cane Creek in line air?

I have a full seal kit, I have the wrench for the air can, I have clamp for the body head, I have nitrogen and nitrogen needle, and a vacuum bleeder!

No ifp, so no height to worry about, ifp pressure? Little googling says about 180 is that correct?

Oil safe to assume around 16 cst?

Any tricks or surprises or any other tools that maybe needed?
The fluid they spec is an Ohlins around 14cst, but the important bit is high VI. Theirs is around 400 VI I think. I've had success with Torco Light and Motorex RSF. Never bought the Ohlins stuff and CC never made it a requirement for us.

Their not hard to deal with once you're equipped to open it up. The bladder can have sealing issues if you're overzealous with grease. Current spec for the bladder nut is a crazy 51Nm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The fluid they spec is an Ohlins around 14cst, but the important bit is high VI. Theirs is around 400 VI I think. I've had success with Torco Light and Motorex RSF. Never bought the Ohlins stuff and CC never made it a requirement for us.

Their not hard to deal with once you're equipped to open it up. The bladder can have sealing issues if you're overzealous with grease. Current spec for the bladder nut is a crazy 51Nm.
Wow 51 is pretty high for sure! Thats about 37 foot pounds.

I did do it yesterday, seemed pretty straightforward really... The bladder nut tightening spec was prob my biggest question. There original one was loaded with grease like a grease cup!

All in all it went good.

Was 180psi a good pressure fot the bladder?
 

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Wow 51 is pretty high for sure! Thats about 37 foot pounds.

I did do it yesterday, seemed pretty straightforward really... The bladder nut tightening spec was prob my biggest question. There original one was loaded with grease like a grease cup!

All in all it went good.

Was 180psi a good pressure fot the bladder?
That's fine. I can't remember the spec off hand, but that sounds close. Like always, the primary purpose is preventing cavitation.
 

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Wow 51 is pretty high for sure! Thats about 37 foot pounds.

I did do it yesterday, seemed pretty straightforward really... The bladder nut tightening spec was prob my biggest question. There original one was loaded with grease like a grease cup!

All in all it went good.

Was 180psi a good pressure fot the bladder?
Yeah 180 is good, and the diaphragm needs o coating of grease on top to protect it against the inside of the eyelet, but left dry where is seats in to the groove of the valve block
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
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well the shock came back, customer said it rode perfect, till the oil leaked out...

When I got the shock back the retaining nut for the bladder was hand tight and the bladder was torn inside...

I guess now the question is, what did I do wrong?

Is there any chance the bladder torn when I was tightening it?

When I vacuum blood it I used about 20 psi of pressure to force the oil in was that maybe too much?
 

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Alternately then maybe the bladder lock ring loosen up causing the problem? Does anyone use a drop of loctite on the threads?
Looks like the bladder was damaged during installation. I've seen them rupture from oil pressure(porosity-->bypass-->aeration), but that looks more like a burst inner tube. Yours looks like a cut and it failed in a circle. When oil is too low you'll also get impressions on the oil side of it.
 
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