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10,000,000 Watts
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Given that the idea is to make your spin/power delivery smoother, I'd assume it would work fine... but that's an interesting question.

-Walt
I like them. I was wondering about logistics as far as bcd measurements without googling around for 1/2 hr!
 

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SISSIF
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Nope. The cranks back pedal freely, independent of the chainring, so the oval clocking will never be fixed relative to the crank, defeating the whole oval purpose.
The pedal assist provides similar benefits, reducing knee load and stalling out over the top and putting down power smoothly (with good spinning circles technique) through the pedal stroke.
 

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The oval is for people who use too big a chain ring, a proper chain ring, a proper cassette, bingo the oval is useless.
Anyways your assist has a max, even a guy not strong like me can climb anything.
I switched for a cassette with 6 more teeth.
There is no need to be geared for 50km/h.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gear-calc.html
I would disagree with you there. I went from round to oval and went up two gears, the climbing is very different in a positive way with the oval.

Even being a oval supporter I would see no benefit to one on my electric bike. The motor does the same impact and more that the oval does.
 

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Mtbr Founder
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I'm sure it will work. But I wouldn't do it since it will provide few advantages of smoothing out your pedal stroke or getting you over the top of the gear when struggling a bit easier.

The assist does that.

It can't be good for the assist motor since it will force it to pedal in squares when it is linear and consistent.
 

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SISSIF
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I'm sure it will work. But I wouldn't do it since it will provide few advantages of smoothing out your pedal stroke or getting you over the top of the gear when struggling a bit easier.
Nope, wouldn't work, as an oval, see above.;)

The constantly changing clocking would probably be largely camouflaged by the assist but it would probably feel weird at times (Variable Biopace!), wouldn't hurt anything, but certainly won't help.
 

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Have you tested that? How do you know an oval ring is clocked right? Only one manufacturer allows for timing adjustment.

I've had custom 20% and 30% rings made and have tried rotor rings over a wide variety of adjustments. Until you've done that you're really in the dark with regards to how various timings feel. I'm pretty confident that many riders would fail to know if their rings were mistimed, although with a freewheel and continuous changes in timing it would be much easier to know.
So they work just the same! :rolleyes:
I had two bikes, one oval equipped and one round. I could tell instantly when I'd switch bikes, and it wouldn't take long until the round or oval felt natural. Whether the clocking is good for me or not, you're probably right I wouldn't know, but I feel it helps. On an ebike the clocking angle would be changing constantly (every time you stop pedaling the chain ring moves forward a few degrees compared to the crank position), because of this I doubt the bike would ever feel normal when pedaling. I would imagine it would bug that crap out of most people.
 

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craigsj:

I have not tested incorrect clocking on purpose but I have experienced it. I clocked a ring wrong one time on installation and there is a significant difference between when the clocking is right and wrong.

Now go buy a bell
 

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How do you know an oval ring is clocked right? Only one manufacturer allows for timing adjustment.
How do I know the clocking was wrong vs. right? Easy the manufacture puts a mark on the ring that denotes how the ring should be installed in relation to the crank. That is if you are not in a hurry and you pay attention.
 

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I have clocked a ring wrong and noticed no significant difference, see how that works?

What matters is proof, and people spent decades, in fact a century, trying to obtain that proof to no avail. There's a reason why that is so and a reason why ovals have come and gone.

The fact that they've recently become popular doesn't mean that the proof now exists or that underlying physics has changed. Unfortunately, a meaningful discussion of the topic is beyond MTBR, posters are more interested in arguing than listening. Reasoned discussion is simply not a part of this culture, whether it's long cranks, big wheels, round rings or cow bells.

If you want the objective truth on oval rings, its out there. It's also in the post history on MTBR. I've posted it before. Incidentally, I rode oval rings for many years, along with the far "preferable" rotor cranks. Oval rings were once the choice when you couldn't have the real thing, now they're free power to the "cognoscenti".
You're the one arguing I am stating my opinion, very different things. But as I have seen with you on other threads you like to argue to argue; so I'm done with you.

Congratulations you won the internet argument, you're the man!

Have a good time on the trails.
 

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What I wish these companies and of course Shimano would make is a chain ring lower than 34. Please correct me if there is something lower, but I think that’s the lowest.

I guess they think because there’s a motor, the gearing is low enough. Maybe with an Eagle 50t pie plate, but with that comes extra weight and derailuer hanging lower than a 42t rear cog.

I’d like a splined round option of 34, 32 and 30. This would get rid of extra bolts and of course one less thing that can come loose. A 32 splined chain ring for my area would be an awesome upgrade for those super steep climbs.
 

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What I wish these companies and of course Shimano would make is a chain ring lower than 34. Please correct me if there is something lower, but I think that's the lowest.

I guess they think because there's a motor, the gearing is low enough. Maybe with an Eagle 50t pie plate, but with that comes extra weight and derailuer hanging lower than a 42t rear cog.

I'd like a splined round option of 34, 32 and 30. This would get rid of extra bolts and of course one less thing that can come loose. A 32 splined chain ring for my area would be an awesome upgrade for those super steep climbs.
I agree, most Ebikes needs some easier gearing. It is like they want you to buy a huge battery because with an empty battery going up is impossible.
That is the reason i have a 20 S Yamaha and even i switched my cassette to be on 32-42. The Bosch with his 2.5 multiply is just crazy too big a chain ring and others are far from great. I want to save battery climbing, not draining it.
 
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