I like them. I was wondering about logistics as far as bcd measurements without googling around for 1/2 hr!Given that the idea is to make your spin/power delivery smoother, I'd assume it would work fine... but that's an interesting question.
-Walt
I would disagree with you there. I went from round to oval and went up two gears, the climbing is very different in a positive way with the oval.The oval is for people who use too big a chain ring, a proper chain ring, a proper cassette, bingo the oval is useless.
Anyways your assist has a max, even a guy not strong like me can climb anything.
I switched for a cassette with 6 more teeth.
There is no need to be geared for 50km/h.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gear-calc.html
If the ring got clocked wrong you would notice quickly.A broken clock is right twice a day! I wonder how many oval ring users would even notice this?![]()
Nope, wouldn't work, as an oval, see above.I'm sure it will work. But I wouldn't do it since it will provide few advantages of smoothing out your pedal stroke or getting you over the top of the gear when struggling a bit easier.
really? did the problem go away?Holy crap, I can post from my phone again!
Have you tested that? How do you know an oval ring is clocked right? Only one manufacturer allows for timing adjustment.
I've had custom 20% and 30% rings made and have tried rotor rings over a wide variety of adjustments. Until you've done that you're really in the dark with regards to how various timings feel. I'm pretty confident that many riders would fail to know if their rings were mistimed, although with a freewheel and continuous changes in timing it would be much easier to know.
I had two bikes, one oval equipped and one round. I could tell instantly when I'd switch bikes, and it wouldn't take long until the round or oval felt natural. Whether the clocking is good for me or not, you're probably right I wouldn't know, but I feel it helps. On an ebike the clocking angle would be changing constantly (every time you stop pedaling the chain ring moves forward a few degrees compared to the crank position), because of this I doubt the bike would ever feel normal when pedaling. I would imagine it would bug that crap out of most people.So they work just the same!![]()
How do I know the clocking was wrong vs. right? Easy the manufacture puts a mark on the ring that denotes how the ring should be installed in relation to the crank. That is if you are not in a hurry and you pay attention.How do you know an oval ring is clocked right? Only one manufacturer allows for timing adjustment.
You're the one arguing I am stating my opinion, very different things. But as I have seen with you on other threads you like to argue to argue; so I'm done with you.I have clocked a ring wrong and noticed no significant difference, see how that works?
What matters is proof, and people spent decades, in fact a century, trying to obtain that proof to no avail. There's a reason why that is so and a reason why ovals have come and gone.
The fact that they've recently become popular doesn't mean that the proof now exists or that underlying physics has changed. Unfortunately, a meaningful discussion of the topic is beyond MTBR, posters are more interested in arguing than listening. Reasoned discussion is simply not a part of this culture, whether it's long cranks, big wheels, round rings or cow bells.
If you want the objective truth on oval rings, its out there. It's also in the post history on MTBR. I've posted it before. Incidentally, I rode oval rings for many years, along with the far "preferable" rotor cranks. Oval rings were once the choice when you couldn't have the real thing, now they're free power to the "cognoscenti".
I agree, most Ebikes needs some easier gearing. It is like they want you to buy a huge battery because with an empty battery going up is impossible.What I wish these companies and of course Shimano would make is a chain ring lower than 34. Please correct me if there is something lower, but I think that's the lowest.
I guess they think because there's a motor, the gearing is low enough. Maybe with an Eagle 50t pie plate, but with that comes extra weight and derailuer hanging lower than a 42t rear cog.
I'd like a splined round option of 34, 32 and 30. This would get rid of extra bolts and of course one less thing that can come loose. A 32 splined chain ring for my area would be an awesome upgrade for those super steep climbs.