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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys this was my first rebuild. I am going to list my steps and can you guys just skim through and check for any whoopsies? Many many thanks and good karma in return....

Fork: 2010 Revelation XX Dual Air with remote lockout. Set to 130mm before rebuild.

Disassembly/Lowers
-Disassembly went smoothly
-Cleaned lowers (inside and out), popped out seals/wipers/foam ring
-Installed Enduro seals with no foam ring (per their instructions)

Air Spring Service
-Pulled dual-air spring out of left leg, replaced o-rings, adjusted internal spacers from 130mm to 140mm (swapped out a 20mm for a 10mm spacer)
-Replaced air spring, made sure lock-ring was centered and in place
-Filled air spring leg from the top with 6cc of 15wt oil
-Reinstalled cap, tightened to 60 in-lbs

Lower Install
-Greased inside of enduro seals/wipers with Park polypro 1000 grease
-Slid lowers on, did not fold over the wipers
-Inverted fork to 45° and filled each leg with 5cc of 15wt fluid per Rockshox's tech manual
^^ This is the step that worries me...doesn't seem like a lot of fluid!
-Torqed shaft bolts, aired up (positive chamber first).

How does that look? My two big worries are so little fluid back into the lowers (only 5cc but I swear I read the manual right?) and the manual also says 123cc in the upper right leg, where the damper is. But I didn't remove the damper, so I just left all this alone. Is that ok, or should I de-air the fork, open the damper side and change that oil as well?

Thanks again.
 

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All looks good to me, I always put a little extra fluid in the lowers. I also saturate the foam rings, o rings ect with SRAM redrum.

Can't comment on the spacer placement since I am not going to look at a manual.
 

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I could have sworn the spec was 15cc of oil for the lowers - that's the amount I have always used. The spec. must have changed @ some point for their 32mm forks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
All looks good to me, I always put a little extra fluid in the lowers. I also saturate the foam rings, o rings ect with SRAM redrum.

Can't comment on the spacer placement since I am not going to look at a manual.
Thanks! I am confident on the spacer placement, it was just swapping out a spacer that was already in there.

Do you typically change the oil in the damper side? Now that I think about it, I probably should pull out the damper and swap the oil if I am doing a rebuild anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I could have sworn the spec was 15cc of oil for the lowers - that's the amount I have always used. The spec. must have changed @ some point for their 32mm forks.
Yeah that's what SRAM's tech videos said, but I checked the 2010 manual a hundred times and both sides, 5cc for all models of Revelation. I'm glad I'm not the only one who thought something might be amiss there.
 

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Do you typically change the oil in the damper side? Now that I think about it, I probably should pull out the damper and swap the oil if I am doing a rebuild anyway.
If you already have everything apart to completely rebuild the spring side, you might as well clean out the damper side and fill it with the right amount of oil.

RS is notorious for underfilling their dampers so you might be surprised at how responsive the damper/rebound controls are after the rebuild. Not to mention damper oil gets pretty nasty over time.

I always thought it was 15cc of 15wt oil in the lowers. Some of the new forks have moved to needing less oil though but I think that is mainly the 2011 and newer forks.
 

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Like GT Scoob said it is worth it to check for the corrct oil volume in the damper side.

I change the lubricationg fluid often but not the damper oil. I went over 12 months the last time I changed the damper oil and it still looked like it was brand new. It is pretty hard for contaniments to get inside the damper, especially when you keep the lube oil fresh.
 

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Ah, my paranoia is being perpetuated! Somebody check page 7 of this document from RS. Make sure I am reading it right...5cc of 15wt oil in both lower legs.

http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/I...000/sites/default/files/techdocs/tm_my102.pdf

Despite the text I will personally continue running 15cc as I have never had any problems w/ this quantity, 5cc just seems low. PUSH industries is pretty cool maybe they could tell you what they run in their serviced forks.
 

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Despite the text I will personally continue running 15cc as I have never had any problems w/ this quantity, 5cc just seems low. PUSH industries is pretty cool maybe they could tell you what they run in their serviced forks.
Same. The oil in the lowers is what keeps the stanchions lubricated when contacting the bushings, wipers, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hey guys, now about 80 trail miles on the fork, been riding okay.

Today I went to adjust the negative air chamber, and I was getting oil coming out in the shock pump. I had both chambers at 100psi, and was increasing the negative chamber to 115psi.

Any ideas here?
 

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As long as it's not a lot and the forks works fine you are good.

Turn the bike upside down before letting air out of the neg will fix that, if I'm not mistaken. And putting 15cc in the legs vs 5 isn't a major issue. It's just the lube for the foamies and wipers.

I don't pull apart the dampers unless there is an issue. On the new stuff, you can pull out a compression stack and easily verify oil level and contamination so you can do that whenever. It's easy enough to pull the lowers that I wouldn't go full damper service just for the h3ll of it, but that's just me.

mk
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
As long as it's not a lot and the forks works fine you are good.
Hmmm I hope you are right, but I'm talking like enough to fill the port of the shock pump. Probably a solid 1cc, and it was a very light brown color. :eekster:

I never did pull the damper side apart. I had the same logic you did, damper side seems to be running great so why mess with it.
 

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6cc sounds like a lot over the piston unless you are trying to make it more progressive. Could be wrong, but I think 3cc is recommended.

If your lockout works properly your damper level is likely ok. If it is low the lockout won't work, if it is high you won't get full travel when there is no air in the fork.


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