[LyNx]

As it says I have a set of Mavic XM321 rims and XT M756 disc hubs, but can only locally get one length spokes. Is there enough room to take up the extra 1-2mm neded to dish the wheel right? Right now the wheels are built up but the guy built them 4X 'cause he didn't have the right length spokes and they seem super flexy laterally - especially on the rear - so I'd like to try to relace them myself using a 3X patern. As far as I calculated I need 260 & 258/9 spokes for this particular hub/rim combo , but can only get 260 spokes.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, especially tips on the actual build since all I will have to go on is the MTB maintanace bible and have no tools - spoke tension meter, wheel stand etc - so it'll be a bit hard and learning experience for sure.

 

[totally_fixxated]

??? 4 cross 36 hole and flexy??? What spokes? That wheel should be fairly stout if built
correctly. I would have the tension checked first before doing anything else.

 

[shiggy]

??? 4 cross 36 hole and flexy??? What spokes? That wheel should be fairly stout if built
correctly. I would have the tension checked first before doing anything else.

Agreed. Sounds like a poor build, not a problem with the number of crosses. I prefer 4x for 36 spoke wheels.

 

[Mike T.]

Any help would be greatly appreciated, especially tips on the actual build since all I will have to go on is the MTB maintanace bible and have no tools - spoke tension meter, wheel stand etc - so it'll be a bit hard and learning experience for sure.

What the first two guys said. Your comment "no tools - spoke tension meter, wheel stand etc" got my interest. I made this just for you.

 

[LyNx]

Sorry, too little info. They are 32 hole rims and when I say flexy I mean besides the tyre roll factor ( I have on 1.95 DTC Nevegals) if I hold the wheel I can flex it side to side a good bit and can feel this same sensation when I'm riding - liken it to when you're getting a flat feeling. I run between 30-36 PSI normally in the rear. I hadn't even a clue how to build them when I got them so I let the only other guy I know that was recomended build them for me - I didn't want to sound pompous since he was doing it, but he didn't use any grease/lube on the nipples and the tension seemed way to low on the spokes.

??? 4 cross 36 hole and flexy??? What spokes? That wheel should be fairly stout if built
correctly. I would have the tension checked first before doing anything else.

 

[shiggy]

Sorry, too little info. They are 32 hole rims and when I say flexy I mean besides the tyre roll factor ( I have on 1.95 DTC Nevegals) if I hold the wheel I can flex it side to side a good bit and can feel this same sensation when I'm riding - liken it to when you're getting a flat feeling. I run between 30-36 PSI normally in the rear. I hadn't even a clue how to build them when I got them so I let the only other guy I know that was recomended build them for me - I didn't want to sound pompous since he was doing it, but he didn't use any grease/lube on the nipples and the tension seemed way to low on the spokes.

4x on 32 spoke wheels is generally not possible/recommended as the spokes overlap each other on the hub flange. Still, if it is tensioned properly it should not feel flexy.

 

[Jwiffle]

you can order spokes online from retailers like cambriabike.com, get the sizes you need. but it does sound like the spoke tension is too low.

 

[LyNx]

OK guys, thanks for the responses so far I just have a few more questions then. So if I keep the 4X lacing, what's the best way to tension it properly? If I keep this patern should I take the whole wheel apart to regrease the nipples/treads?

 

[Mike T.]

.............what's the best way to tension it properly?

There's only two things that matter - even and sufficient tension.

If I keep this patern should I take the whole wheel apart to regrease the nipples/treads?

As I can't imagine a properly built wheel without lubrication I have to say yes.

 

[shiggy]

...If I keep this patern should I take the whole wheel apart to regrease the nipples/treads?

I would just de-tension the wheels and lube the spoke threads and the nipple/rim interface. Use Phil's Tenacious Oil on my wheels and do not apply it until the wheel is laced and before I start tensioning.