If you ride downhill, the recommended fork sag settings are almost double what is recommened for XC riding. If you are going to blow through remaining fork travel, you are more likely to do that in downhill than XC. Since that does not happen, riding XC with downhill sag setting is not a problem for bottoming.dissonance said:If you sag a 120+mm fork enough can you get the appropriate geometry? Are there any negative effects with using this method? I'm asking of course because of all the blowout deals on 120+mm forks.
either externally or interally. I for one wouldnt run more then 100mmdissonance said:If you sag a 120+mm fork enough can you get the appropriate geometry? Are there any negative effects with using this method? I'm asking of course because of all the blowout deals on 120+mm forks.
Well Fox and Marzocchi both recommend a sag of approximately 20%. So whether it's a 100mm fork or a 120mm fork you still have to lift it 20mm or more. Isn't that normal though for anyone who sets their fork up with the proper sag?zenorb said:When you need to pull your wheel up to get over something - you are going to have to lift it 20mm before it ever leaves the ground.
Unweighting the bike would change it's geometry.
Hopping would be interesting don't you think?
Yes. At 5 inches out, another 20 is a lesser percentage of change. People do it on 60-80 forks, and 80-100mm forks all the time, and it's not horrible. It's abit of sag sure, but then sag is a constantly variable dimension, and there are guys riding around with more than that on new forks anyway. If you leave it topped out at 120mm, there will be an amplified torque moment on the head tube, but any modern frame designed for a 5" fork should have a saftey margin far greater than 20mm is going to infringe upon. To be completely realistic, you can get used to riding anything and enjoy it. Go nuts with Neg Air spring or whatever you want. Play with it and learn. If you hate it, you won't lose a ton of cash on the deal when you sell it, if you're picking up your new toy on closeout anyway. Then you can write messages and tell everyone else who is merely specualting how it really works on your particular fram/fork pairing. Good luck, enjoy.dissonance said:If you sag a 120+mm fork enough can you get the appropriate geometry? Are there any negative effects with using this method? I'm asking of course because of all the blowout deals on 120+mm forks.
You never adjusted your stock fork? They are not that tough to tune and the EXR Comp is not bad when adjusted for the rider.dissonance said:...The cheap 100mm EXR Comp that came with my bike has never sagged. I really like the geometry how it is. It feels real powerful and I feel it is fine for climbing. So once I get a decent fork I would only be sagging the 120mm the recommended amount (around 20mm), which in theory would put me right about where I'm used to on my no sag cheapo fork. I think anyway... I'm hoping to order a Marathon S soon if this all makes sense.
2004 Marzocchi Marathon S 120mm $275tl1 said:I haven't seen any exceptional closeout deals on 120 mm forks lately. Thanks.
I rode a hardtail (Surly Instigator) like that for a while with a 130mm fork (Fox Vanilla RL) and I liked it but I had lockout to use when I wanted to hammer. With a softer than normal fork spring you get a lot of squishing up and down when sprinting and climbing unless you have lockout. I never had any problems with bottoming despite springs that were too soft for me. The extra sag gives you more tube overlap though too which generally makes the fork stiffer torsionally. That bike was designed for a long travel (100-130 mm) fork however.