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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I ordered a new On-One frame and would like to use the old Judy fork with 1" steer tube and clamping crown that I have. I have thought of using reducing headsets/adapters, but I will get a better fork eventually so it isn't cost effective.

Cambria has a 200 mm, clamping crown, 1 1/8" steer tube assembly for a 1996 Judy on sale for $20. The head tube on my frame will be 120 mm, leaving me 8 cm of play.

How far do threads typically extend down the steerer? If I bought the longest one they had (200 mm), would it be feasible and safe/wise to cut it down to the length I need to accomodate headset, head tube, a spacer or 2 and a stem? I'm not aware of any design differences between threaded and unthreaded steerers, other than the threads.

I thought that this could be a cheap solution to being able to use my fork. Is it possible? The other option is try to pick up a newer fork on Ebay if I want to keep cost down.

Thanks!
 

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Don't Do It!

You cannot use a threaded headtube with a threadless setup. The stresses are totally different on the two setups and you will probably end up breaking the steerer tube if it was attempted. Look for a threadless steerer on ebay or if you want email me, I might have a 1-1/8" Judy crown lying around somewhere.
 

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Doesntplaywellwithmorons!
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Actually u can use it fine. 1" threaded steerers will almost always be chromoly on suspension forks, and they're perfectly strong enough to take a stem clamping to them. A stem isn't going to concentrate anymore force on the steerer end than a locking headset would (and there were plenty of those in the old days that clamped the steerer). But given how a set of headtube reducers only costs like $10, why bother ?!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
DeeEight said:
But given how a set of headtube reducers only costs like $10, why bother ?!
Because, as I understand it, you buy the headset reducers for $10 then a 1" headset for ~$30+. Then when I decide to go to an updated fork with 1 1/8" steerer, I have a headset and reducers I can't use, and have to buy a 1 1/8" headset. Makes more sense to me to buy a good 1 1/8" headset and try to make the fork fit............unless I have how the headset reducers work completely wrong?
 

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I did a couple years ago..

I had a threaded Quadra 21R (man.. that's old) on my old Trek 8000's threadless headset and stem. I wasn't the best setup, but it worked.... back then I didn't have money to replace it.. and eventually i did.. with a Manitou Fs Ti Palmer (another old fork). However if you have a choice... try to replace it when you can... just to make sure.... Safety first!! ;)

Godd luck!
 

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"El Whatever"
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No.

Don't do it.

Threading will make the steerer sidewals thinner which could lead to a failure.

You know... barely cracked can lead to slightly dead.

As someone said... safety first. Get a beater and save for the new fork or get the threadless reducers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Warp2003 said:
Don't do it.

Threading will make the steerer sidewals thinner which could lead to a failure.

You know... barely cracked can lead to slightly dead.

As someone said... safety first. Get a beater and save for the new fork or get the threadless reducers.
I wouldn't be clamping on the threads.........the idea I have is have the longest steerer so I can cut the threaded portion off, leaving smooth tube behind. So I guess what I would like know is are all steer tubes made from the same blank, then threads cut into the outside (for those that are to be threaded) or are they totally different tubes to begin with? If I have enough room to cut the threads off and there is no difference in construction, then I essentially have a threadless steer tube.......right?

Thanks!
 
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