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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2005 Marzo All Mountain SL that works beautifully but the other day I was routinely checking all air pressures and the PAR valve on the bottom left fork had a grayish milky substance that come out of the valve when I took the pump off of it. It did not spill out all over the place, rather it just hung around the air valve. I dabbed it with my finger and it was oil I guess. Does this mean it needs servicing? Why would it be a grayish milky color :skep: ? Thanks all opinions and inputs are greatly appreciated.
 

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3 "fiddy" for short
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How long has it been since you changed your oil in the fork? When was the fork last serviced with new seals (dust, oil, and air)? I have a 66sl and when my air seals started to fail I noticed oil leaking into the negative air chamber and when I removed the pump I would get a shot in the face with pressurized oil. It sounds to me that you are probably in need of an air chamber rebuild and fresh seals.

On the other hand, if it isn't riding poorly then you probably have time. I know that my 66SL was beginning to show signs of oil seepage it was very minor at first. Later than year it got progressively worse and I finally broke down and sent it in to the Suspension Experts in NC. They have been great to deal with everytime I use them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I bought it used, and the guy that I bought it from had the oil changed a few months before I bought it and that was in Nov of 2008. I have not done anything to it just ride it. I was thinking about it getting close to time for a service. Do you know if 10wt oil is better thaen the 7.5wt it comes with? Like I said it still rides and performs well so I know I have time but I need to start shopping around on who to send it to for service.How much and who are these guys you sent your forks to? Thanks for you reply.
 

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MartyL76 said:
I bought it used, and the guy that I bought it from had the oil changed a few months before I bought it and that was in Nov of 2008. I have not done anything to it just ride it. I was thinking about it getting close to time for a service. Do you know if 10wt oil is better thaen the 7.5wt it comes with? Like I said it still rides and performs well so I know I have time but I need to start shopping around on who to send it to for service.How much and who are these guys you sent your forks to? Thanks for you reply.
I have seen guys use 10wt oil over the 7.5, but I never have. I have always found the 7.5wt to work well for my weight and riding style.

You will want to change your oil much more frequently than you have/nt been. It is very simple to do and will help you to understand what is going on with the fork.

The Suspension Experts are in North Carolina and have been very good with me. If you are on the West Coast you can just send it in to Marzocchi. Cost will vary, but it will be much cheaper than buying a new fork.;)

Take a look on line and you will find some maint manuals for the earlier Marzocchi forks. WIth the proper tools you will be able to keep the fork running line new on your own.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
be350ka said:
I have seen guys use 10wt oil over the 7.5, but I never have. I have always found the 7.5wt to work well for my weight and riding style.

You will want to change your oil much more frequently than you have/nt been. It is very simple to do and will help you to understand what is going on with the fork.

The Suspension Experts are in North Carolina and have been very good with me. If you are on the West Coast you can just send it in to Marzocchi. Cost will vary, but it will be much cheaper than buying a new fork.;)

Take a look on line and you will find some maint manuals for the earlier Marzocchi forks. WIth the proper tools you will be able to keep the fork running line new on your own.
I meant to mention I am a heavy rider at 260 lbs. and thats what I hear the clydes talk about a heavier oil to improve shock performance for their weight. Honestly I cant see this fork doing any better then it has been so I guess I should stick to whats in it. I just happen to have have some 10 wt. here at home from servicing and older Manitou I used to own and was easy to change the oil. This Marzo has me a little intimidated but I will google some info and see if I can change it myself. I will look Suspension Experts up I am on the east coast (Georgia) Thanks :thumbsup:
 

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A milky residue where oil is involved usually indicates moisture. Have you run it in a moist environment or go through lots of water...or heaven forbid, left it in the rain quite a bit...drove in the rain for a good while with the bike on a rack...or use a carwash. I'm not questioning the truthfulness of the person you bought the fork from, but are absolutely, positively sure that the oil was serviced? I don't know, sounds like some moisture in the fork oil at the least.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
TNC said:
A milky residue where oil is involved usually indicates moisture. Have you run it in a moist environment or go through lots of water...or heaven forbid, left it in the rain quite a bit...drove in the rain for a good while with the bike on a rack...or use a carwash. I'm not questioning the truthfulness of the person you bought the fork from, but are absolutely, positively sure that the oil was serviced? I don't know, sounds like some moisture in the fork oil at the least.
Well I am guilty as charged, I been taking to car wash. I probably have took it to car wash at least 20 times in the last 2 years. I didn't think it was a big deal but I guess so huh!:madman: The guy I brought it from is pretty honest so I guess its all on me. So what do I do now? :confused:
 

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MartyL76 said:
I have a 2005 Marzo All Mountain SL that works beautifully but the other day I was routinely checking all air pressures and the PAR valve on the bottom left fork had a grayish milky substance that come out of the valve when I took the pump off of it. It did not spill out all over the place, rather it just hung around the air valve. I dabbed it with my finger and it was oil I guess. Does this mean it needs servicing? Why would it be a grayish milky color :skep: ? Thanks all opinions and inputs are greatly appreciated.
1)The par on your fork is totally its own cartridge and separate from the semi-bath and its normal for oil to come out of it and its not needed for bottom control if you play with the oil levels, so you can let it stay broken if it is broken.

2)The factory does great work for a fair price if you just want the fork serviced.

3)Because I kept blowing the bladders on TST5 I would not put any money into that fork.

4)I'd say do an oil change yourself but a special socket is needed (can be homemade) and a spinning footnut can drive you crazy and a tst oil change is up there in PITA.

5)a RC2 upgrade is nice but for XC/AM riding i acutally preferred the tst5 because the compression knob was easier to reach for on the fly adjustments.

6)Of all the air forks i've ridden this fork has the MOST stiction of any of them, even more stiction than my totem solo air.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ratt said:
1)The par on your fork is totally its own cartridge and separate from the semi-bath and its normal for oil to come out of it and its not needed for bottom control if you play with the oil levels, so you can let it stay broken if it is broken.

2)The factory does great work for a fair price if you just want the fork serviced.

3)Because I kept blowing the bladders on TST5 I would not put any money into that fork.

4)I'd say do an oil change yourself but a special socket is needed (can be homemade) and a spinning footnut can drive you crazy and a tst oil change is up there in PITA.

5)a RC2 upgrade is nice but for XC/AM riding i acutally preferred the tst5 because the compression knob was easier to reach for on the fly adjustments.

6)Of all the air forks i've ridden this fork has the MOST stiction of any of them, even more stiction than my totem solo air.
Okay thanks for the info, so if I change the oil in it , will it include the oil that is in the PAR? I know you said its completely separate but I want to be sure if it shares the same oil the rest of the fork does or do you have to pull it apart to clean up the PAR?:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well I changed the oil in my Marzo today and it was terrible, I almost broke down into tears just at the thought of mistreating my baby like that.....lol, on a more serious note, the oil was awful. I poured it into a glass container just to see what it looked like and low and behold there was water in it and what looked to be dirt and dust mixed in with it. I replaced it with a 10 wt oil because that is all I had and I used that wt in m previous forks. I want to get a little more details on taking out the TST and Par cartridges. I printed the service manual but if anyone has any TIPS please feel free to let me in on it.
 

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Marty, If you've been cleaning your bike at the car wash then the fork won't be the only problem to come from this. Doing this will blow out the grease and contaminate all the bearings with dirt and moisture which leads to corrosion of races and balls. It would be a good idea to clean and lube everything. FYI
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
crazy8 said:
Marty, If you've been cleaning your bike at the car wash then the fork won't be the only problem to come from this. Doing this will blow out the grease and contaminate all the bearings with dirt and moisture which leads to corrosion of races and balls. It would be a good idea to clean and lube everything. FYI
Yeah you probably right :madman: , I tried to keep the wand at carwash at a distance but I guess the water seeped through anyway :eekster: . I am gonna tear down my hubs and change out the bearings and repack them with fresh grease this weekend. My pivots on my frame and headset are all sealed bearings so I am guessing they will be fine.
 
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