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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I think I've seen some fixies of yours with ENO cranks; my question is, does the ring shift under load? I know it's splined, and I've tightened the lockring down as much as I can, but every time I put some back pressure on the drivetrain, the ring shifts a tiny bit; then, when I turn the cranks forward, it shifts back again. I'm worried that I'll destroy the ring and/or crank splines if I keep it up. I think I'll try thread locker next unless anyone has some suggestions.
 

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grease?

did you grease the threads of the lockring/crank?
I use a front brake on my fixie, so I've never experienced what you have. I do put back pressure, but not to come to a complete stop since I have the front brake to help me.

I hope this helps.

Depending on how hard you back pedal, it would be a good idea to shift your weight over the cranks. Just an idea if you don't already do this.

And its 9:13 in WI, and I must go to bed...5am ride to the office tomorrow...AAAAAAAA!!!!
 

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drev-il, not Dr. Evil!
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AteMrYeats said:
I think I've seen some fixies of yours with ENO cranks; my question is, does the ring shift under load? I know it's splined, and I've tightened the lockring down as much as I can, but every time I put some back pressure on the drivetrain, the ring shifts a tiny bit; then, when I turn the cranks forward, it shifts back again. I'm worried that I'll destroy the ring and/or crank splines if I keep it up. I think I'll try thread locker next unless anyone has some suggestions.
A couple of friends of ours that ride fixie off-road noticed this issue on older XTR cranks. You backpedal, the lockring loosens a bit. Backpedal more, and the lockring loosens more...until the chainring/spider works itself loose. Just my opinion, but I don't think cranks that tighten down the ring or spider with a lockring (such as XTR or WI) make good candidates for fixie drivetrains.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Drevil said:
A couple of friends of ours that ride fixie off-road noticed this issue on older XTR cranks. You backpedal, the lockring loosens a bit. Backpedal more, and the lockring loosens more...until the chainring/spider works itself loose. Just my opinion, but I don't think cranks that tighten down the ring or spider with a lockring (such as XTR or WI) make good candidates for fixie drivetrains.
Yeah, but they're shiny...

Man, I hate compromising. HATE it, especially when I bought a 122mm Phil BB that is essentially useless with any other crank. Oh well, I guess I'll try some tricks, and if they don't work, I'll get some Suginos as I should have done in the first place.
 

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Steel and teeth.
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AteMrYeats said:
Yeah, but they're shiny...

Man, I hate compromising. HATE it, especially when I bought a 122mm Phil BB that is essentially useless with any other crank. Oh well, I guess I'll try some tricks, and if they don't work, I'll get some Suginos as I should have done in the first place.
I had this issue with my old XTR cranks. To solve it, I cleaned the splined interface and doused it (not the threads, just the interface) liberally with liquid red Loctite (there is probably a better product from the manufacturer, but I was aiming for easy access) . Next install the ring and add a little more while shifting the ring back and forth to ensure that the void has been filled. Then put the lock ring on and cleanup any excess Loctite that has been been pressed out. Finally, I let it cure for 24 hours.

This all but solved my problems with the XTR crank... If you ever have to pull the ring off, you can use a dental pick to remove the cured Loctite from the interface and then repeat the process again.

bb
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
b1umb0y said:
I had this issue with my old XTR cranks. To solve it, I cleaned the splined interface and doused it (not the threads, just the interface) liberally with liquid red Loctite (there is probably a better product from the manufacturer, but I was aiming for easy access) . Next install the ring and add a little more while shifting the ring back and forth to ensure that the void has been filled. Then put the lock ring on and cleanup any excess Loctite that has been been pressed out. Finally, I let it cure for 24 hours.

This all but solved my problems with the XTR crank... If you ever have to pull the ring off, you can use a dental pick to remove the cured Loctite from the interface and then repeat the process again.

bb
This was my plan. Thanks for posting that it worked for you before I went and doused my cranks in threadlocker.
 

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Misfit Psycles
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are you using the lockring tool from white? that will help get that sucker down and tight.

if that ring is shifting be afraid, i have seen upclose and next door what happens when a little wobble in a ring is let alone 'just one ride'. the ring twisted and snapped right near the center...shards of aluminum making nice gashes in the lazy mans legs...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Anyone use Loctite Quick Metal 660? It looks like just the ticket, but after reading Loctite's recommended "clean-up" method on a PDF somewhere, I think it sounds like it might be a little too permanent.
 

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AteMrYeats said:
Anyone use Loctite Quick Metal 660? It looks like just the ticket, but after reading Loctite's recommended "clean-up" method on a PDF somewhere, I think it sounds like it might be a little too permanent.
You might try this.

And please post the results.

bb
 

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Misfit Psycles
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AteMrYeats said:
Anyone use Loctite Quick Metal 660? It looks like just the ticket, but after reading Loctite's recommended "clean-up" method on a PDF somewhere, I think it sounds like it might be a little too permanent.
i dont put loctite on my chainring bolts either...its just a personal thing, but i try to rotate the ring(s) once a month to extend their little lives.
so obviously its nice when i can remove them without 'herculean' feats of strength.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I called Loctite and talked to a very helpful rep. Things don't look good. I think there are plenty of ways to make this thing stay put, but most are going to be a total pain in the ass to remove; some are permanent. I think I'll cut my losses and get something else. The White can do SS duty elsewhere. Thanks for the help.
 

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A hopped on pop.
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i run my eno cranks on a fixie. i have a 32t boone ring.

i used some loctite on the spider interface and a little on the lockring. let it cure for a while (like a full day). been riding it awhile now, with no problems.

i run a front brake only on my 29er, it is 32x18 fixed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I checked out some White cranks at the shop today, and while some crank and chainring combos had more slop than others, none was nearly as loose as mine, and some were approaching a press-fit level of tightness. This thing is going back to White; no machine shop is perfect. Moreover, I love the cranks, and if I could get a set with a tight interface, I'd happily throw some threadlocker on them just in case and call it a day. White has awesome customer service, too. I'm sure I can get this resolved.
 

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I've seen a little bit of slop in my ENO'd Fixie. I did the loads of loctite on the chainring interface and lockring and have had no issues since. It would help if WI didn't insist on using that strange lockring.
 

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AteMrYeats said:
I checked out some White cranks at the shop today, and while some crank and chainring combos had more slop than others, none was nearly as loose as mine, and some were approaching a press-fit level of tightness. This thing is going back to White; no machine shop is perfect. Moreover, I love the cranks, and if I could get a set with a tight interface, I'd happily throw some threadlocker on them just in case and call it a day. White has awesome customer service, too. I'm sure I can get this resolved.
They should take care of it. I just went through the same issue with my road fixed gear that has eno cranks. I think some of the older chain wheels had a slightly oversized spline. They replaced my ring and I'm pretty sure they used locktite on the lock ring. I have minor back and forth movement but the ring isn't going anywhere. Still using the old crank arm.

FWIW, I just bought another set for my SS mtb and the spline interface was basically press fit, so I'm thinking they have improved.
 
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