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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got my fork powdercoated, the lowers in white and the crown in lime green. Looks sick. I disassembled the fork, and handed it over to the powdercoater. When I got the fork back, there were little specs of powdercoating paint on the top bushings. So will these little specs of powdercoating scratch the ti-nitride coated stanchions really badly, or will it be alright? I put the fork back together, feels like there is a bit more stiction than before. The fork is a fox f120rlc (09)

and if I do need to replace the bushings , can the rockshox tools used to replace rockshox 32mm bushings be used on the fox forks?

I have access to the rockshox tools.

thanks for any help, I hope I don't have to pull it apart to replace the bushings but if I do, oh well.
 

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Bikeeveryday said:
I got my fork powdercoated, the lowers in white and the crown in lime green. Looks sick. I disassembled the fork, and handed it over to the powdercoater. When I got the fork back, there were little specs of powdercoating paint on the top bushings. So will these little specs of powdercoating scratch the ti-nitride coated stanchions really badly, or will it be alright? I put the fork back together, feels like there is a bit more stiction than before. The fork is a fox f120rlc (09)

and if I do need to replace the bushings , can the rockshox tools used to replace rockshox 32mm bushings be used on the fox forks?

I have access to the rockshox tools.

thanks for any help, I hope I don't have to pull it apart to replace the bushings but if I do, oh well.
You should not have powdercoated those fork lowers. If they are magnesium lowers warping may have taken place. I'd use small amount of solvent to remove the specs of paint. Then slowly reassemble the fork taking good care not to force anything. It the fork cylces without any metal/metal contact, you got lucky. If not, you will need to replace those lowers....and chalk it up to live&learn.

Good luck..I hope everything is ok.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I put the fork back together, noting warped. How would fox powdercoat the white ones if it would warp them? I don't think paint thinner will remove the specs of paint. Do you really think they will scratch the stanchions up bad?
 

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Bikeeveryday said:
I put the fork back together, noting warped. How would fox powdercoat the white ones if it would warp them? I don't think paint thinner will remove the specs of paint. Do you really think they will scratch the stanchions up bad?
I'm not positive that Fox uses the same material as Zoke, but powdercoating Zoke lowers usually ends up in a bad result. Congrats on yours though.

I would use a small amount of Laquer Thinner... and yeah, I'd try to remove it. Better safe than sorry..IMO.
 

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Bikeeveryday said:
alright. I'll give that a shot. thanks. think it'll mess up the bushings?
If the bushings are metalic, I think not. You may want to find out if they are coated. Just so we understand each other, I'm not talking about the rubber dust seals or wipers.

Here's a thread that I dug up...

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=15315
 

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Dude, don't be a cheap skate, replace the bushings with some new ones and be happy. If you can spend the money to pay for a decent PC job (it'd check other stuff if the person that did it didn't mask them off properly enough to stop it from getting into the lowers), then some bushings are only a fraction compared. The PC coating is very hard and will most likely mess up your nice stanchions if you leave it as is - FYI, you can't use an solvent to remove PC, it has to be scratch/sanded/blasted off.
 

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LyNx said:
Dude, don't be a cheap skate, replace the bushings with some new ones and be happy. If you can spend the money to pay for a decent PC job (it'd check other stuff if the person that did it didn't mask them off properly enough to stop it from getting into the lowers), then some bushings are only a fraction compared. The PC coating is very hard and will most likely mess up your nice stanchions if you leave it as is - FYI, you can't use an solvent to remove PC, it has to be scratch/sanded/blasted off.
Laquer thinner is strong stuff and it might take a while but it will loosen up the PC enough to remove it. I have used it on my frame in some spots...it's was a thick PC job too!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
i was only charged 20 bucks, so not much. He does a good job though, he's won many awards with vintage BMX stuff and restorations. So, how are the bushings installed/ removed? I have 32mm rockshox tools to do it. Will they work on the fox bushings?
 

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WOW,










that is all I have to say..............


actually....
there is not ti-nitride anywhere in any fork
Bushings contact surfaces are are not metal (obviously)
The PC cure heat could have done some serious damage to the lowers, the crown (any idea what type aluminum they are or the temper, or what temp or time they were cured at???), and or the crown/stanchion adhesive (typically break down with high temps).
Laquer thinner will not remove the PC (without some long term exposure and some elbow grease)
Any thing that will remove PC will have negative effects on the coating on bushings

Proper prep and having this done by someone who understands the metals involves, and the proper temps for low temp PC curing would have been a smart thing.....High tech foged aluminum and magnesium alloys, press fit assemblies, and precision suspension components are a LONG way from rigid steel BMX frame/forks.....

Things most likely will be OK, but there is a possibility that the next time you grab your front brakes hard, that your fork wont stay in one peice.
 

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I'm afraid I agree with davep...

I say replace the bushings.
Bushings are usually coated (like a tefal pan) so you'd probably take all the coating off the bushing before you actually got anywhere with the pc. Just replace the bushings.

Now for the soap box.
I wouldn't pc my fork: Mg and Al alloy strength comes mainly from the heat treatment they undergo. You can really screw up the characteristics by heating them up again and over-aging them. Then there's the danger of warped lowers (which you've avoided). Thermal expansion in the crown/stanchion junction could also potentially really mess stuff up. In my book the increased danger of failure from this stuff far outweighs the aesthetic benefits of a custom pc job.

With that said, please post pics with the fox decal. It is a sick looking fork.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
he said he baked it at 400 degrees. It's gonna take a while to do the decals. The powdercoating did not stick to the bushings, I was able to pick it off. The bushings had more of a plasticy beige color. They were not prepped for the powdercoat. Do you seriously think the fork is at risk? I didn't think 400 would damage anything. I reassembled the fork (for the third time this week!) And it's smooth as butter like it was originally.
 
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