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MTBiker
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The last thing I need for my light is some method to connect the battery pack (8AA, 4||4 for 4.8V) from my camelback or bike frame, to the light unit on my helmet or handlebars.

I already got an 8AA battery holder, but where can I get these fancy waterproof connectors, coiled wires and such to connect it up? So far my temporary plan was to simply use the tamiya connector on the battery holder, some 20Ga wire in shrinkwrap to the light, and another tamiya with some silicone on it...


Can someone link me to the wires, holders and connectors they use?
 

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For connector to the battery pack i used a PP3 type connector (http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=31743)
the cable i used an old mobile phone one (curly wurly type) and then stuffed it in an old neoprene wet suit booty (trimmed to suit). if its going in a camelbak, have you thought about a zip loc plastic bag and a elastic band, i have used them in the past without issue ;).
 

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MTBiker
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Threespeed said:
For connector to the battery pack i used a PP3 type connector (http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=31743)
the cable i used an old mobile phone one (curly wurly type) and then stuffed it in an old neoprene wet suit booty (trimmed to suit). if its going in a camelbak, have you thought about a zip loc plastic bag and a elastic band, i have used them in the past without issue ;).
:D I didn't consider the plastic bag. I don't really expect it to get wet inside the camelbak, but that would be an extra precaution.

Don't you have to take into account the amount of current the wires can handle? I would expect a cellphone curly wire to have some pretty small wires.

I was looking at this http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm and according to that I need 18Ga wire to handle 2 amps of current (2 leds at 1A)
 

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kuksul08 said:
Don't you have to take into account the amount of current the wires can handle? I would expect a cellphone curly wire to have some pretty small wires.

I was looking at this http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm and according to that I need 18Ga wire to handle 2 amps of current (2 leds at 1A)
:eekster: To be honest i didnt give it that much thought, i was handy and free, and i hasnt let me down yet (maybe i spoke to soon :cryin:)
 

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Lets RIDE!
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Kuksul08: that batteryspace cord is heavy duty, with great connectors. Same one came on the battery I bought there. Might be a little too much on a helmet light. The curly part of the cable is very tight and resistant to stretching. But if you dunk it in boiling water, stretch it to the length you want, then hit it with cold water, it will set at the new length. If you go too far, hit it with the boiling water again and it returns to it's original length :)

Several others have mentioned using cell phone charger curly cords. The two I've dissected have 24g wires. Seems light, but since it's working for others I'm going to give it a shot on a 2 x Q5 @ 800mA helmet light I'm working on. I don't mind the fat cable on my handlebar light, but I'd like something lighter on the helmet light. The one I'm going to use is actually straight, not curly. We'll see how it works out.

JZ
 

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aka RossC
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kuksul08 Don't you have to take into account the amount of current the wires can handle? I would expect a cellphone curly wire to have some pretty small wires. I was looking at this [URL said:
http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm[/URL] and according to that I need 18Ga wire to handle 2 amps of current (2 leds at 1A)
Mine only broke from mechanical shearing. I have a better strain relief system now.

The exact current draw through the wire will be dependent upon what the battery voltage you are using (assuming phone charger wire is between battery and driver). If you have a relatively high voltage battery, you may find the current draw is much less than 2 amps.
 

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kuksul08 said:
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I was looking at this http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm and according to that I need 18Ga wire to handle 2 amps of current (2 leds at 1A)
Also take in consideration the length of the wire. A long wire will have a higher resistance and more loss than a short wire at a given diameter and have higher losses.

You can easily test your losses. Measure the voltage over the wire while running on full power. If you know the current you can easily calculate the losses by multiplying current with voltage. An example with a thin cable: You measure 0,4V over the cable. The current is 2A. You will then have a loss of 2*0,4 = 0,6W. As the cable has two leads (one plus, one minus) you get 2*0,6W=1,2W loss in total.

One other thing to take in consideration is the durability. A thicker cable usually have more strands and are more resistant to wear that comes from bending the cable back and forth.
My favourite cables are those with silicone insulation as they stay soft and flexible regardless of temperature.

This cable linked by glowinthedark seems good. It comes from the tread DC extension cables.
 

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100% italian mtbiker
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The topic I was looking for: I found interesting cable solutions at Batteryspace, as posted above. My question is: are these really 8 FEET long? or is it 8 inches?
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3234
Does this connector "snap" or does it screw into the female plug?
Is it strong enough or do you suggest the other model "waterproof 2 pins lockable"?
 

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mdsjack said:
The topic I was looking for: I found interesting cable solutions at Batteryspace, as posted above. My question is: are these really 8 FEET long? or is it 8 inches?
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3234
Does this connector "snap" or does it screw into the female plug?
Is it strong enough or do you suggest the other model "waterproof 2 pins lockable"?
Each of the two coiled cables in the set is about 20" long with no stretch. They could easily double that length when stretched. The connectors snap together (not screw) and are VERY tight once connected. In fact, when they are new, you really have to push the two sides together pretty hard to get them to mate. Once they wear in a bit, its much easier but they definitely won't disengage by accident.
 

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100% italian mtbiker
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Battery Space may have good products, but it doesn't provide a kind customer support. They were not intentioned to understand my worries in anticipating the money of a courier shipping, even if I wanted to opt for a usps shipping, so I gave up buying from them. 70bucks of shipping is not an option for me.

SO, any good alternatives?
 

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aka RossC
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mdsjack said:
Battery Space may have good products, but it doesn't provide a kind customer support. They were not intentioned to understand my worries in anticipating the money of a courier shipping, even if I wanted to opt for a usps shipping, so I gave up buying from them. 70bucks of shipping is not an option for me.

SO, any good alternatives?
Turboferrets 18650 holder and cells from deal extreme? That would be a whole lot cheaper.... That is probably what i will do when i need more batteries.
 

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aka RossC
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SkUG said:
ahh ninja editing! :p (maybe i should have read the title of this post :yikes: )
You and me both...

I have been using the Dx faux Deans connectors. Trout had some probs with them but my batch have been fine. They are ridiculously cheap and you can't ham fist them and reverse the polarity which is quite useful when you are attaching them in the dark.

My phone cable charger cable is still going strong... I have a set of deans at each end and so it acts as an extension from the battery to the light which means i can use it between multiple lights.
 
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