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Texan
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm building my bike with BB7s and the rear brake line routing on the frame is designed for the larger hydro lines. For now I'm running full length cable and it's bugging me.

Whats a good cable stop for Jagwire ripcord?

Thanks.
 

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Actually with cable/mechanical brakes it's a huge advantage to run full length housing if you can. The full length housing eliminates open ends that can allow dirt and curd into the housing. The fewer was for crap to get into your housing, the longer both the cables and housing will last.

Anyway, depending on the type of line guides that are on the frame, you may or may not be able to run a standard interrupted housing setup. A picture of the of line guides on your frame would help.

There are generally two types. One is a 3/4 circle that looks more or less like a standard cable stop, but has a slightly bigger slot in the top, and are open at both ends. There are inserts that are available for these that turn them into a cable stop. There are also inserts that are slipped over the cable housing and then pressed into the guide that tighten up the diameter of the of the guide and will hold the housing firmly in place, these work well if you want to stick with full length housing.

The other type is about a 1/4 circle with a slot on the bottom that is intended to have a zip tie passed through to anchor the housing or brake line to the frame, or use a c clip type affair that Jagwire, Problem Solvers and others make to hold the line/housing in place. This type cannot be converted to a cable stop.

It sort of sounds like you have the first type of line guide, but it's not obvious from your description. If that's the case you have two options. The picture below is of the type that turns the line guide into a stop and will allow you to run a standard interrupted cable run. I can't find a picture of the little plastic shims that tighten up the guides for a full length run. But an LBS should be able to help you out. Trek, Fisher and others use this type of shim on some of their frames.

Good Dirt
 

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I'm building my bike with BB7s and the rear brake line routing on the frame is designed for the larger hydro lines. For now I'm running full length cable and it's bugging me.

Whats a good cable stop for Jagwire ripcord?

Thanks.
BB7s generally work better with full length housing.
 

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Texan
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1,345 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys. I pretty much knew that running full length would be better, but using what I have left over from other builds just ain't right. :madman:

I ordered some new red Ripcord to match the shifter housings and those cable stops that Squash suggested. I may try both ways since where I live has no hills and braking power may be over rated.

Gawd, I don't know what I was drinking when I bought these gold cables. :skep:
 

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Thanks guys. I pretty much knew that running full length would be better, but using what I have left over from other builds just ain't right. :madman:

I ordered some new red Ripcord to match the shifter housings and those cable stops that Squash suggested. I may try both ways since where I live has no hills and braking power may be over rated.

Gawd, I don't know what I was drinking when I bought these gold cables. :skep:
That type of guide needs an insert even for hydro lines.
 

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mtbr member extraordinair
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Check your old lines again, there are probably some plastic "spacer" things that you need. They wrap the cable to fill in the gap so the cable fits snugly in the guide.

I suppose in a pinch you could wrap black tape around them too, or use the zip ties like you are doing now.
 

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Texan
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Check your old lines again, there are probably some plastic "spacer" things that you need. They wrap the cable to fill in the gap so the cable fits snugly in the guide.

I suppose in a pinch you could wrap black tape around them too, or use the zip ties like you are doing now.
There are no old lines. This is a new build.

For now Ill run what I have until my new stuff comes in. I'm currently hooking up the FD and after that I think it'll be ready for it's first ride.

Edit: I just weighed the bike and it came in at 23.4 lbs. :thumbsup:
 

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There are no old lines. This is a new build.

For now Ill run what I have until my new stuff comes in. I'm currently hooking up the FD and after that I think it'll be ready for it's first ride.

Edit: I just weighed the bike and it came in at 23.4 lbs. :thumbsup:
The frame should have come with the brake guide spacers.
 

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Texan
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The frame should have come with the brake guide spacers.
It didn't Shiggy and overall, I'm not happy with this frame. It took 3 weeks to get it and it came with nada. Plus I had to take it to my LBS to get the BB shell and the head tube faced.

But, what it is is what it is. I got the shifters adjusted and am about to put on the Cateye. If I can find an old bottle cage laying around, Ill be taking it's first spin in about half an hour.
 

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BB7s generally work better with full length housing.
I suppose it depends how wet and muddy it is where you ride but I've never found that to be true for V brakes or cantis. More housing = more drag and more power loss through flex. Housing can be sealed pretty well to where contamination doesn't have a noticable effect.

Granted, I have mostly ridden in dry areas (CO and AZ), but I have literally gone years without degradation in brake actuation smoothness running inturrupted housing, with little or no maintenance.

Gary, if you ordered a Ripcord brake kit, it should come with the ferrules which have a rubber extension to seal them, teflon liner, and some little rubber boots IIRC. They should stay clean and work well for you. I'm just not sure that the ferrules will fit correctly in your hose guides.
 

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I suppose it depends how wet and muddy it is where you ride but I've never found that to be true for V brakes or cantis. More housing = more drag and more power loss through flex. Housing can be sealed pretty well to where contamination doesn't have a noticable effect.

Granted, I have mostly ridden in dry areas (CO and AZ), but I have literally gone years without degradation in brake actuation smoothness running inturrupted housing, with little or no maintenance.

Gary, if you ordered a Ripcord brake kit, it should come with the ferrules which have a rubber extension to seal them, teflon liner, and some little rubber boots IIRC. They should stay clean and work well for you. I'm just not sure that the ferrules will fit correctly in your hose guides.
IME the friction happens where the cable enters and leaves the housing. More breaks in the housing = more friction.

There can be more compression/flex issues but that is only at the bends (with any decent housing). The tighter the bends, the more compression problems in the system. Straighter full length housing runs with gentle bends are very efficient and in most cases better than interrupted housing runs and stops.
 

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Out spokin'
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IME the friction happens where the cable enters and leaves the housing. More breaks in the housing = more friction.

There can be more compression/flex issues but that is only at the bends (with any decent housing). The tighter the bends, the more compression problems in the system. Straighter full length housing runs with gentle bends are very efficient and in most cases better than interrupted housing runs and stops.
+1.

--sParty
 

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Gawd, I don't know what I was drinking when I bought these gold cables. :skep:
I was Thinking the same thing...... ;) I think it wouldn't be so bad if all the cable housings were gold.
 

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I've got gold brake housing on a dark green bike and it looks pretty good. But it is interrupted housing. Full length is a bit much.
 

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Texan
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I was Thinking the same thing...... ;) I think it wouldn't be so bad if all the cable housings were gold.
I'm not changing the shifter cables. :nono: It took me all day to adjust them. lol Brakes are easy, shiftys can be tuff! :madman:
 
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