I'm planning to go dedicated SS on a Chameleon frame I recently acquired. I removed all the current bosses and guides cause I was bored (not cause I am smart). So picked up some new cable guides from Nova Cycles and was wondering what routing people prefer on their bikes. Really my primary question is should I route the rear brake cable under (pictured) or over the toptube? Any pros or cons for either method? Thanks
Cable routing on SS Chameleon
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Hard to see your handle bar's bend but, you are running the rear lever on the right.
If so perhaps installing the guides at the 7 o clock position on the top tube as you are looking at the front of the bike would be good. Not really top or bottom. Sorta how you got it now.
In that position it would probably lessen the chances of the tube rubbing the seat tube and all the bends will be nice and smooth.
What do you guys think?
Looks good without guides and brake posts. I want to remove the brake posts but am wondering if seat stays look real clean or will there be some marring from the welds.
Yours looks pretty clean.
Hey when you're done post it on my single speed Chameleon thread. Really like to see a clean Chameleon.
If so perhaps installing the guides at the 7 o clock position on the top tube as you are looking at the front of the bike would be good. Not really top or bottom. Sorta how you got it now.
In that position it would probably lessen the chances of the tube rubbing the seat tube and all the bends will be nice and smooth.
What do you guys think?
Looks good without guides and brake posts. I want to remove the brake posts but am wondering if seat stays look real clean or will there be some marring from the welds.
Yours looks pretty clean.
Hey when you're done post it on my single speed Chameleon thread. Really like to see a clean Chameleon.
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Those walls behind your bike kinda looks like a modern version of Japanese Shoji doors. Are they Shoji?
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I prefer the the through the frame routings. Just start drilling holes.
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Would put a guide in between the two blue zip ties on the top tube. I wish there were a middle one on my Chameleon and my 5 Spot. The cables are flexible and move around too much.
My Chameleon is polished and it scratches the finish.
My Chameleon is polished and it scratches the finish.
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A disadvantage to running brake lines under the top tube is that they can be in the way if you use a bike carrier that supports the bike by the top tube and also if you need to throw the bike on your shoulder for portage.
I'd run the hose under the seatstay (as you have it) but along the top tube just left of centre (at one o'clock position, viewed from the front).
That caliper looks pretty vulnerable down there but at least you won't have any problems with the wheel wanting to shift back under braking forces - if anything, it will want to move forwards (which a chain tug would prevent, of course) :thumbsup: .
I'd run the hose under the seatstay (as you have it) but along the top tube just left of centre (at one o'clock position, viewed from the front).
That caliper looks pretty vulnerable down there but at least you won't have any problems with the wheel wanting to shift back under braking forces - if anything, it will want to move forwards (which a chain tug would prevent, of course) :thumbsup: .
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that caliper hangin down scare the S.S.hit outta me. yikes!
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you are obviously ok with frame modification (as am I) so find a local welder and have him weld on new tabs for you, up top where they go. Since you already mod'd the frame, factory warantee is done, might as well.sean916 said:its about as vulnerable as a deraileur, maybe less, guess that's why this is the singlespeed forum
I love the SC Chameleon, and have wanted an old one for a while now. the ebb ones suk! I think that white looks cool on yours. but seriously, the first time that caliper hits something on the trail, you will have a MAJOR issue to deal with trail side. One I sure wouldnt want. eek!!!
IF you know someone with a medium Cham, with older frame style please PM me. Sick bike!!!!
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Depending on what alloy SC used for the frame, it might not be so easy. Anything made from 6061 loses 80% of its strength after welding unless heat treated. I believe 7005 is weldable but then you still run into the problem that most local welders have likely never had to weld something that thin, so you are best off finding someone with experience with bike frames10speedbiopacefreewheel said:
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I figured that goes without saying, if you want stuff welded on your bike then find someone who welds bike frames seems like a given. And anyone who welds will want to know what they are welding, so you'd do your research and figure out what material was used.boomn said:
But I opted not to state that boomn, because if you look, the OP stripped parts off the frame already. Then had someone weld on new cable guides. So he has clearly already tackled your concern. :thumbsup:
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