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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, call me a fool, stupid or wahtever.
But I just checked the set up and installation of the cable routing for a Niner Air Carbon, well as the instructions said, it is not sooo easy but with enough patience it is doable.

But I am scratching my head now, if I think about the situation of replacing the cables anytime in the future (and unfortunately we do have some pretty wt conditions over here from time to time, so cable replacing on a regular basis is a given...).
If I am reading the instructions correct and examining the BB area, if I need to replace cables I essentially need to completely disassemble my crankset and BB, correct?

What are your experiences/ advices on that?

And, by the way, is there any video floating around which demonstrates/ explains the correct steps (best practices) of installing the cables? That would be awesome!
 

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http://ninerbikes.com/fly.aspx?layout=bikes&taxid=271

Patience is key to this one!

Mine comes in early next week but i am setting it up as a SS

Enjoy and don't forget to post pics!

Take Care,

PF

p.s.>Steve Domahidy is the coolest! Aside from designing and producing the baddest 29" wheeled bikes he also played a sound bite from 'Show Me How To Live' from the band 'Audio Slave''s first Album. Good stuff!
 

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After six months, I just removed the cables on my A9C (cables were in great shape). I did so because the video shows to put the left shifter cables in the left hole and the right shifter cable in the right hole (which I did). The manual says to cross the two and I recommend this as it relieves the cables quite a bit.

I had to remove my crank and BB to change out my cables. I did not remove the CYA cups. The cups remove quite a lot of valuable finger space. As a result, I recommend when removing the old cable to tie a string to it. That way you can attach the new cable to the string and carefully pull it through. Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks Jeremy, yes I come across of this different cable routing guideline as well.

@Niner: What is the correct/ recommended way to rout the cables into the headbadge?
Left to left or left to right?
 

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PNW said:
I have had nothing but problems with the internal routing. I now run "full" outer right through the whole frame on both mine and my friend's bike
The full outer runs through the frame above the BB shell
Ditto.

Since changing to full outer (for the rear at least) the shifting has been better than ever. I built the bike up with the standard interrupted cable outers, using the BB cable guide as suggested by Niner. The shifting was OK at first, but sadly only ever got worse - it never felt like new stuff should, always a little draggy/sticky. Once ridden in any sort of wet/dirty conditions it only got worse.

As soon as the full outer went in the shifting felt perfect, highly recommended.
 

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I would do the same thing as you guys if I ever have the same problem. Fortunately, mine works flawlessly. When I have to remove the crank from time to time, I put some lube on the cable guide in the BB and all continues to go well.b :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
monolith said:
Ditto.

Since changing to full outer (for the rear at least) the shifting has been better than ever. I built the bike up with the standard interrupted cable outers, using the BB cable guide as suggested by Niner. The shifting was OK at first, but sadly only ever got worse - it never felt like new stuff should, always a little draggy/sticky. Once ridden in any sort of wet/dirty conditions it only got worse.

As soon as the full outer went in the shifting felt perfect, highly recommended.
Apologize for my bad english and understanding, but can you explain a bit more what you did?
If I understood you guys correct, you are using a „closed" cable system (like Gore for example) WITHIN the frame? But that would require a) to extend/ drill the headbadge for a bigger hole and b) modify the cable routing guide (inside of the BB) to be able to fit the closed cable?

(Sorry, I hope this makes sense?)
 

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omega1848 said:
Apologize for my bad english and understanding, but can you explain a bit more what you did?
If I understood you guys correct, you are using a „closed" cable system (like Gore for example) WITHIN the frame? But that would require a) to extend/ drill the headbadge for a bigger hole and b) modify the cable routing guide (inside of the BB) to be able to fit the closed cable?

(Sorry, I hope this makes sense?)
Drilling out the head badge cable guide is the only mod' needed.
I don't know how Niner will go with warranty, hopfully they will be cool with it, it's just a drill hole in the badge
 

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omega1848 said:
Apologize for my bad english and understanding, but can you explain a bit more what you did?
If I understood you guys correct, you are using a „closed" cable system (like Gore for example) WITHIN the frame? But that would require a) to extend/ drill the headbadge for a bigger hole and b) modify the cable routing guide (inside of the BB) to be able to fit the closed cable?

(Sorry, I hope this makes sense?)
I'm not using gore or anything, just plain old Shimano SP41 outer. Can't remember the size of the drill bit - it was big enough to get the outer through...

The headbadge actually pulled off my frame the first time I went to change the outers - it's just held in place by what looks like a contact adhesive, so not integral to the headtube area at in all in terms of strength. You don't modify the guide at all, just bypass it completely - if you're running BB30 I doubt you'll have enough room above the spindle to easily run the outer, but with a regular 24mm spindle crank you'll be fine.

I had about half a cup of water come out of my frame after a recent race (Karapoti Classic), and my shifting was still fine! Couldn't say the same before I did the cable mod...
 

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tjp said:
Full length cable housing here. Sweetness. PITA (but a very occasional PITA) to change with the press-fit BB, however.
Ok, I have mine apar now and I am considering the full lengh cable. I assume you mean rear only since there is no front sop except the head tube badge. Also, there is some debate as to which side goes where. For th rear.....did the drill out the drive side or non-drive side of the headbadge?

Tx
 
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