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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
hey im new to mountain biking and i just got a cheap diamond back ht, its got low end components but its good enough for me now.
the disc brakes however, are terrible, almost unsafe. im planning on upgrading to bb7's but i've heard talk about full cable housings for brakes as opposed to partial housing.
can someone explain how the housing affects mechanical braking? thanks
 

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Frankly, I am not sure the housing length matters much. When I rode with mech. brakes, I used to lube the points, where the cable entered housings (partial), to reduce friction (dry lube only in any season). What does matter a lot for mech. brakes, though, is fine tuning. Your brakes may be just out of tune, with worn out pads and/or bent rotors - try to adjust them before spending money on upgrade.
 

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I believe when you hear 'full' verses 'partial' in regards to cable housing, it is refering to whether or not the housing runs the full length from lever to caliper, or if the housing is 'broken up' in sections.

For example, a cable housing may start at the lever and then run into a cable stop at the top of the downtube. Then the cable runs exposed (not inside a housing) down the tube, and then there is another cable stop where the next piece of housing starts.

The disadvantage to a setup like that is that there are more openings where mud and grit can enter the housing and cause interferance with the cable operation. Especially if the housing is opened up near the bottom bracket area where a lot of mud and dirt is always flying in from the rear wheel.
 

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the full length housing is to avoid getting dirt in your cable housing while riding. this is a problem in dry, dusty areas because the dirt will get into your brake housing and cause friction, changing the feel of the brakes and possible hindering their performance by keeping the cable from returning fully and releasing the brakes properly. I had an issue like this for a different reason and I will attest to the fact that a sticking brake will very seriously disrupt your riding. for the most part, however, this isn't really an issue. when I change my brake cables I don't just lube where they go into the housing but the entire length of the cable to make sure that it is lubed throughout, and I only ever use a dry lube (tri-flow works magnificently).
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
xenon said:
Frankly, I am not sure the housing length matters much. When I rode with mech. brakes, I used to lube the points, where the cable entered housings (partial), to reduce friction (dry lube only in any season). What does matter a lot for mech. brakes, though, is fine tuning. Your brakes may be just out of tune, with worn out pads and/or bent rotors - try to adjust them before spending money on upgrade.
my bike came stock with the same disc brakes i see on some canadian tire bikes, its called joy tech, never heard of them before. plastic components for the calipers, they just seem way to cheap and flimsy continue using or tune up
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
My bike is set up with this partial housing on the top tube for the rear brake, and 2 derailleurs, how will i attach full housing for my rear disc brake , zip ties?
 

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whyaretheresomanyphils said:
My bike is set up with this partial housing on the top tube for the rear brake, and 2 derailleurs, how will i attach full housing for my rear disc brake , zip ties?
Zip ties will work, although it won't look as 'clean' as if you did what a lot of peole do, and that is to drill out the cable stops on the frame and then run the housing through them.
 

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tpm7 said:
If you don't want to mess around with zip ties and drilling the stops Avid makes some good full housing options (ex. Flak Jacket Cables). http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/11...ables/Sram-Pit-Stop-Flak-Jacket-Cable-Set.htm

I have been using them for two years now with no problems at all (coincidentally with BB7s) they work great!
I agree those are nice cable sets.

However, his last question was "How do I attach the full length cable housings to a frame that was designed for partial cables?" not "Which cable set should I use to convert to full housings?"
 

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I'll be using Gore RideOn full length housing for all of my cables on the bike I'm building up and will let you know how it turns out. The Gore RideOn's have an internal sleeve that runs through the normal interrupted stops and you cut the outside housing so it should be compatible without using zip ties.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
net wurker said:
Zip ties will work, although it won't look as 'clean' as if you did what a lot of peole do, and that is to drill out the cable stops on the frame and then run the housing through them.
thats a good idea, didnt think of it thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
hey guys i dont know if i should start this in a new thread but here it goes.

i just realized it wasnt worth buying a 350 CAD bike when upgrading it would liekly double that price when i can just go to a pro bike shop and get a decent bike with actual named components for 550. do you think theyd let me return my bike?
 

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net wurker said:
I agree those are nice cable sets.

However, his last question was "How do I attach the full length cable housings to a frame that was designed for partial cables?" not "Which cable set should I use to convert to full housings?"
I was just saying there's other options out there, just trying to be helpful... it has the same effect as full length and you don't have to mess around with zip ties and drilling cable stops... whatever.
 

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Oh, I see now.

You were saying "you can use these INSTEAD of full housing cables, so you don't need to worry about how they attach".

I thought you meant to use them AS full housings, in which case he would still be at "how do I attach these to the frame?".
 

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I personally do not see much of a reason not to run partial cable, reduces friction and if properly taken care of you should not have much for issues. When switching to Hydros on the other hand, drill out the stops.
 

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I've had a chance to install the Gore Ride-on set for the brakes and they use uninterrupted housing the entire stretch. The set for the derailleur's is different in that the housing does not run the full length, but the inner housing does, so the entire system is sealed. Basically you run housing where you would normally for interrupted setups. Within the housing there is an inner liner which runs the full length from shifter to derailleur. The positive in doing it this way is you do not have to drill out your frame, but you get the benefits of a sealed system. Also the cables they give you are quite nice, they are covered in some sort of teflon and slide very easily in the housing.

You can watch the setup video which will give you an idea of how it works:

http://www.rideoncables.com/en_us/support/support_slfsder.html

I'll be setting up the derailleurs tonight and give my final opinion. Everything points to this being a really nice, sealed system, without haing to worry about how the housing is attached to the frame.
 

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Takedown said:
You can watch the setup video which will give you an idea of how it works:

http://www.rideoncables.com/en_us/support/support_slfsder.html

I'll be setting up the derailleurs tonight and give my final opinion. Everything points to this being a really nice, sealed system, without haing to worry about how the housing is attached to the frame.
They did a nice job on that video. Do let us know what you think of the Ride-On cables+housing after you've installed it.
 

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The _sealed_ Gore Ride-On brake cableset is designed along the same principles as their sealed gear cableset in that you can run the black outer housing full length or interrupted, and in both, the liner is then threaded all the way through.

The brake cableset is also supplied with the rubber grub seals that you place onto the end of the cables to seal them in - the same as for the gear cableset.

Takedown said:
I've had a chance to install the Gore Ride-on set for the brakes and they use uninterrupted housing the entire stretch. The set for the derailleur's is different in that the housing does not run the full length, but the inner housing does, so the entire system is sealed. Basically you run housing where you would normally for interrupted setups. Within the housing there is an inner liner which runs the full length from shifter to derailleur. The positive doing it this way is you do not have to drill out your frame, but you get the benefits of a sealed system. Also the cables they give you are quite nice, they are covered in some sort of teflon and slide very easily in the housing.

You can watch the setup video which will give you an idea of how it works:

http://www.rideoncables.com/en_us/support/support_slfsder.html

I'll be setting up the derailleurs tonight and give my final opinion. Everything points to this being a really nice, sealed system, without haing to worry about how the housing is attached to the frame.
 
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