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· Upgrade Addict
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am finally installing the XR Rockers tonight and was reading on the Turner site about disassembly/re-assembly and proper torque. I noticed that the "main" pivot has a higher torque. My question (maybe a stupid one...) is: Which one is the "main" pivot? I want to do this correctly. My assumption is that I won't be dealing with the main pivot... Thanks for the help and limited humiliation.
 

· I don't do PC
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johnmre said:
I am finally installing the XR Rockers tonight and was reading on the Turner site about disassembly/re-assembly and proper torque. I noticed that the "main" pivot has a higher torque. My question (maybe a stupid one...) is: Which one is the "main" pivot? I want to do this correctly. My assumption is that I won't be dealing with the main pivot... Thanks for the help and limited humiliation.
The BB pivot, tscheezy has info on his sign. also
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That's what I thought

WV_XCE said:
The main pivot is behind the BB. You will not be touching this one for the XR installation. The pivots you will work on will require 9 ft/lb of torque (as per the Turner site)

http://www.turnerbikes.com/Maint/introduction.html
I didn't want to assume. Thanks for the info. Hopefully all will go well with the XR installation tonight.
 

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I just swapped out mine a couple days ago (actually put the X back on because I sold the bike). The only problem I had is that when I put them on originally I used red lock-tite instead of the blue. Big mistake. That stuff is too powerfull. In all likelyhook one bolt will come out fine and one will stay in the bushing. You will probably have to pull the bushing out of the frame to get the bolt out. If you have a hard time getting the remaining bolt out shoot some liquid wrench in there and let it sit for a while. Then use a rag and pliers to hold the bushing while you try to unscrew it with the T40. Be careful not to mar the bushing. If it won't come shoot some more LW on it. It will come out eventually. Good luck.
 

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WV_XCE said:
In all likelyhook one bolt will come out fine and one will stay in the bushing. You will probably have to pull the bushing out of the frame to get the bolt out. If you have a hard time getting the remaining bolt out shoot some liquid wrench in there and let it sit for a while. Then use a rag and pliers to hold the bushing while you try to unscrew it with the T40.
Don't grab the bushing spindle with any pliers. If you insert a 5mm hex wrench deep enough into the spindle, beyond the threaded area, you can secure it to then unscrew the T40 torx bolt.

Rando
 

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tscheezy said:
hey Randy. How's rehab? I think you meant a 6mm allen inserted into the pivot shaft.
Yeah, that's the ticket, 6mm. :eek:

Rehab is slow but sure, I'm making steady progress. When I first started I could only bend my knee joint 42 degrees. With frequent visits to physical therapy I'm now up to about 82 degrees bend. It requires about 105 to complete a revolution of the pedals, so I have a way to go. Each degree I earn comes at a price though, lotsa pain. The physical therapy has been more painful than the injury!

I'm also slowly regaining my lost muscle mass. Through a regimen of quad presses, calf raises and seated elliptical trainer I've gone from only being able to support 80 lbs with my right leg to about 170 lbs now.

I may have another surgery about mid January to remove the wires, and possibly be scoped to check out a bone spur. Here's the latest pics.

Sorry about the hijack John, thanks for asking Phillip. Now back to our regularly scheduled program.....

Rando
 

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· I've got a Stiffee
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I just put some XR rockers on my Burner, but the frame/bike is brand new so I had no issues and had em on within 10 minutes. The hardest part was getting the 6mm allen wrench deep enough into the bolt shaft to get the other bolt out on the other side because of all the loctite in there. Maybe a blast of compressed air would have been a good idea to clean that crap out of there.
 

· \|/Home of the Braves\|/
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DLine said:
Also, don't be surprised when your shock requires more air to compensate for the increase in leverage...

It's worth it all.
Definitely. Just make sure you get the sag where you had it before. Tweak if needed.
Oddly enough, I did feel better tipping my saddle a little down. Raising the rear a little should have done that anyway but it did feel better for some reason :confused:

I actually didn't need to do anything with my cables (SRAM RD - no loop - and Avid Mechs), YMMV.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Success

Everything worked out perfect. My rear der. cable is stretched a bit but it is shifting fine for the driveway/front stairs/curb test. I am going to hit Big Creek at lunch tomorrow to see how everthing works. This was easier than I thought it was going to be. The only worry was getting the allen wrench in there. Tight fit. I was worried about the threads but it went it with a bit of finesse. Turned out to be a 1.5 Sweetwater Festive Ale job. I'll report on the ride tomorrow. I did need to put about 190 in the main and 90 in the SPV to get the proper sag and I actually may bump the main up a bit. (I weigh 180 btw.).

Almost forgot... Oil is coming out around my rebound adjuster on my Swinger. That cant be good...
 

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Hmm. I have about 160 in my positive and 90 in the SPV (I think). It could probably use a little more though, I think my sag is low.

Um, no. That doesn't sound good.
 
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