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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone - loving my new Burner, but the DT Swiss rear thru-axle is really giving me the irrits. It just will not stay tight, despite a whole bunch of hand torque.

I've searched the 'net high and low for a manual; DT Swiss's stuff is no good, and I can't find any chat about it on here, which leads me to believe I've got it installed wrong.

All I've done is just wind it in and tighten it up.I see the lever lifts off the axle, but other than repositioning it out of harm's way I can't see what else it does.

Any and all advice gratefully received; I have a day o' gravity assistance planned for tomorrow, and at this stage it'll be a hand-tighten between every run (oo-er, Vicar!).
 

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Try putting a thin washer under it. Some of those DT axles don't have quite enough threads on the end, so while they feel like they are tightening up, the threads are really just bottoming out in the dropout.

I just took mine to the local hardware store and scrounged around till I found something that fit, then I bought 5 of them.

Total cost was less than two dollars.
 

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I never have a problem with mine either, but I put a little extra force on the lever with a toe, then rotate lever up until needed. When you want rear wheel off, just rotate the lever to 9:00 and stand on it, and it will loosen right up.

DT
 

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Track Junkie
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Robbo - funny you mention this, because I've been having the same issues.

Three times in the past 3 months the rear DT axle has come loose on my new Burner. Two of the 3 times I was with some of the mechanics from the LBS, and they couldn't figure it out either.

It's been tightened as much as we are comfortable with by hand (although not pushing on it w/ a toe).

Let me know if you come up with a solution to this unusual issue.
 

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I wonder if a better solution than a washer or tightening with your foot wouldn't be to have a machinist extend the threads on the axle another 2-3mm.
 

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I had the same problem & have had it before on a set of DT forks so I ditched the axle and have fitted a RockShox Maxle. I did email Turner about my concerns and they replied that they hadn't heard of any other issues but clearly I'm not the only one. At the end of the day the DT axle is only a bolt (without a lock washer) & doesn't have the positive locking action of a cam or expanding wedge type axle so it can rattle loose if provoked enough.
 

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It's carbon dontcha know.
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Slight tolerance issue with the hub maybe, slightly short of the 142mm?
 

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As above, the Maxle is about 3 to 4mm shorter which I was initially concerned about but I have done about 300 miles on it so far and haven't had one incident of loosening so I'm sticking with it & will just keep a close eye on it. Not sure what 6thElement means by a tolerancing issue but I've not noticed anything untoward other than length.
 

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Simwit - Thanks for your suggestion of the RS Maxle.

Funny, that in 1 day on a small forum thread there are 3 incidences of this occurring.

I'll see if the techs @ Sea Otter Classic from DT / Rock Shox / others have a solution for this issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'm lucky enough to be making the 12,000mi hike to Sea Otter again this year, and I intend to ply DT with beverages of choice while discussing the issue at length. ;)

I gave it a good old seeing-to yesterday before caning the bike senseless down a 12km downhill run. It came loose again after the first sortie, but after tightening it again with real feeling and some very rude words, it survived another four runs without loosening.

I'm using the Tune/Stans wheelset that comes with the Turner's starter pack offer. The Maxle idea sounds like it has merit. Thanks everyone for the feedback!

I did thrash the underside of my (unwrapped) chainstay with chainslap, but that's another story... I reckon steel wool might clean up the raw finish, DT?
 

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Funny! toe tightening is recommended :)
What about those guys with a heavy feet?

How about applying an ample amount of blue locktite on the thread, have it dried out then put it back.
 

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mine came loose several times in the first month of ownership, then without doing anything differently it never became an issue again <shrug>
 

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The trouble with 'toe tightening' is those handles only have plastic splines inside them and eventually they'll strip which I have read several cases of, you simply shouldn't have to do them up THAT tight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
How about applying an ample amount of blue locktite on the thread, have it dried out then put it back.
Yeah... that one crossed my mind, actually.
 

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On my new Flux frame, I've noticed that the rear DT skewer has a tight spot on each rotation when threading into the dropout. I'm thinking the rear end may be slightly misaligned, as the threads look great and I've removed and re-installed the hanger.

Anyone else experiencing anything similar?
 

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On my new Flux frame, I've noticed that the rear DT skewer has a tight spot on each rotation when threading into the dropout. I'm thinking the rear end may be slightly misaligned, as the threads look great and I've removed and re-installed the hanger.

Anyone else experiencing anything similar?
Same issue with my burner. But its not really been an issue.
 

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Here's just some of my speculation and I could be wrong.

Maybe the new RD hanger which the work as a lock nut to the 142x12 axle is not properly aligned?

What you can do is a 3 step process:
1) Loosen the bolt of your RD hanger,
2) Tighten your RWC axle,
3) and lastly tighten your RD hangers,

I believe this resolves 2 issues;
1) Loosening of your axle
2) creaky hangers

Hope this helps and let us know how it goes.
 

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Maybe the new RD hanger which the work as a lock nut to the 142x12 axle is not properly aligned?
I think this was the issue. Ordered a new RDhanger and a new RDhanger bolt (which is just a chainring bolt).

I noticed that my RDhanger bolt wasn't completely tight (one of the many bolts that were not torqued to spec from the Turner build). Here's my steps to resolve the situation:


1. Slightly loosen the RDhanger bolt
2. Insert axle/wheel, but don't torque the thru-axle down completely.
3. Preload the bike with a little weight by pushing down on the saddle. This shifts the RDhanger upwards slightly, and puts some of the axle weight/pressure on the frame, not all on the RDhanger.
4. Properly torque the RDhanger bolt.
5. Properly torque the thru-axle.

Ride!
 
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