[mblittle]

I'm taking everything apart after riding my SB 66 for 1.5 years and the bump stop was cracked and rolling around in the bottom bracket shell. This is plastic cap and not the screw itself. Is it really needed and how do you put it back on if the eccentric goes in first according to the directions.

 

[Undercover]

I'm taking everything apart after riding my SB 66 for 1.5 years and the bump stop was cracked and rolling around in the bottom bracket shell. This is plastic cap and not the screw itself. Is it really needed and how do you put it back on if the eccentric goes in first according to the directions.

Just overhauled the eccentric about an hour ago...I referenced page 21 of the SB66C 13' owners manual and it was a breeze. Eccentric goes into frame first and then the bumper stop threads thru the bottom of the bb. The bumper stop will not thread fully into the frame if the eccentric is mounted backwards. Bumper bolt rests within the recessed area of the eccentric. The bumper plastic cap seems to be a necessary evil for preventing the bumper bolt from damaging eccentric unit.
KV

 

[mblittle]

How do you get the cap on? The cap doesn't fit through the bump stop hole.

 

[Undercover]

I've used the original plastic cap and a tire valve stem cap with no problem at all. Cap just pops right onto the bumper bolt and then threads right into the bb opening. Did you check to see if there is any debris within the threads within the bb area?

 

[mblittle]

I went ahead and put it back together without the cap. It was already off and didn't do any damage to the eccentric.

 

[petercarm]

In my experience, the original bump stop was a harder material than the available spares. The original lasted a long time, but when it did fall off it ended up distorted and wouldn't go through the hole for reassembly. I ran without a bump stop (plastic) and the bolt did chew up the edge of the eccentric recess making the eccentric stick when trying to push it out on disassembly. Also, without a bump stop plastic, the suspension made a knocking noise on rapid compressions as it passed the Switch inflexion point.

The replacement was much softer and didn't last at all as well as the original. My latest solution is a tyre valve cap which (in desperation) I epoxied onto the bolt and filed down a bit. This attempt is just a few days old but was necessary to get ready for a foreign trip. It seems to be holding up to the Freeride trails in Finale Ligure and I will inspect the bolt when I return.

 

[petercarm]

It seems to be holding up to the Freeride trails in Finale Ligure and I will inspect the bolt when I return.

On inspection, this setup had failed and UK supplies of bump stops appear to have run dry. Anybody have an idea for material for making my own? I'm thinking straightforward nylon tube will do the job well.

Bored of a stupid bump stop causing problems.

 

[Oni]

On inspection, this setup had failed and UK supplies of bump stops appear to have run dry. Anybody have an idea for material for making my own? I'm thinking straightforward nylon tube will do the job well.

Bored of a stupid bump stop causing problems.

Dang, was hoping that a tire valve cap would be the solution.

Good luck.


Oni

 

[Thimk]

I started a thread on the stop bumper earlier. Check that thread. There was one other solution someone did to replace the OEM bumper.

What I've done with mine was use the original rubber bumper, but drowned the inside of the eccentric with Phil Wood grease. The idea being to reduce friction when contact is made at the inflection point.

No issues so far.

 

[Hokidachi]

Here's what I did: http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=902264
Even though I received spare bumpers from Yetifan, I still use the one I made... I have not checked if it's still holding though!