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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
heya all..... anyone with a spare second, can you take a look?

in order of my concerns

1) am I buying any parts that will not work with each other? incompatible
2) did I miss out any major part? (especially something I cannot run out and buy locally)
3) is something I will buy not good value for money or just junk?

I am not looking to break the sound barrier, just have fun riding, and do not want parts that require a lot of maintenance or break easily.


frame and rear shock canfield one 2011 and cane creek DB
fork 2012 Marzocchi 888 RC3 Evo V2
stem Sunline Boxxer Direct Mount Stem
handlebars RaceFace Atlas FR 1/2 Inch Riser Bars
grips odi rogue
shifter Shimano XTR Shifter 10sp M980 (just right, going 1 x 10)
wheels mavic ex823 with dt swiss 32 holes
seat wtb speed V
seatpost thomson elite
hub front Hadley Black Front 20mm Thru Bolt Disc Hub
cranks Shimano Saint Crankset M810 170mm
tires butcher 2.5 SX / 2.3 SX
brakes Shimano Saint M810 Disc Brake
derailers XTR RD-M980-10s Rear Derailleur - SGS
guide and guard Straitline Silent Guide
cassettte Shimano XT Cassette 10 Speed M771 narrow hg 11-36t
chainring renthal 32T
hub rear Hadley Black SDH Disc Rear Hub 12mm Thru-Axle x 135mm
chain Shimano XTR Chain 10 Speed M980
pedals nukeproof proton
headset Hope Headset - 1.5" Stepdown Low Stack
salsa seat post clamp
shimano brake adapters
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I don't even know what a headset is, so I assume I don't have one
I'll go do some more reading on the internet lol

oh yeah and i have a 7 and 8 inch rotor for brakes

Any recommendations for headset?
 

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biking is fun
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Ditch the X4 stem and get a direct mount. The 2012 marzocchi's come with the standard 4 bolt boxxer patter for direct mount stems so look into something like straitline, Canfield (if you want it really low), Race face, etc. It will look better, probably lighter, a lot easier to set up, and you won't have to worry about your bars being aligned just right.

For the headset. You will need a 1.5 headset that reduces to work with a 1 1/8th steer tube. Typically just called reducer headset. You can get a standard cup (where the cups will stick out about 15mm from the top and bottom or a zero stack where it sits almost flush with the top and bottom of the head tube. You can also order special to mix and match. My DH bike has a standard lower and a zero stack top.
 

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Seat post holder? Can't remember what it's called but the ring that keeps your post on place, not sure though, it might be included to the frame as might the headset?
Bad ass build though, make sure you post pics :)
 

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Make sure you have the correct sized seat post, bottom bracket, and check to make sure the chain guide works w/ your ISCG tabs (05 I assume). anything else I missed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
already bought half the stuff on list, will show pictures when done probably end of next week

no need to know the parts of a bike when you buy off the shelf complete bike and anything that I broke I just took the shop to fix.

took me like 10 hours of reading to come up with that list, and even then you can see i missed things.
 

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Huffy Rider
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What size is your bike? I just built up a Can-Diggle in small. It sounds like you are building a DH bike....go with 165 cranks unless you have super long legs. You will need cable housing, the tool to cut it, brake line fittings for when you trim your lines, and stuff to bleed your brakes. Or you could just leave your lines long and look like a store bought bike. Alcohol for cleaning stuff.

You will also need zip tys, big ones. Grease, locktite, fork oil.....CHECK YOUR FORK OIL LEVEL in all the chambers before you ride. Mine was empty and brand new, make sure the levels are correct if it has any in it. Do you have a torque wrench? Stans for running tubeless? Chain tool? Gotta shorten the chain. BB tool, for installing the BB. Are you going to take the frame to a shop to face the BB? Install the fork crown race? Install the headset cups?

God luck, it isn't easy but it is a ton of fun!

Brenda
 

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i also have a diggle frame, don't hear about too many of those, especially since they aren't making them anymore. mine's built up as a dh bike. although these days 65.5 degree head angle is steep for DH...??

good on you for taking the effort to build your own bike. it can be a lot of work the first time around but a lot of fun. i'm fairly mechanical so i enjoyed the process and once i did it once, it's much easier to do it again. there are a number of little things that need to be done that can take special tools but for those tasks (like facing) i just took it to a good lbs and had them do that step. everything else is pretty easy if you take you time. fwiw, you can cut cable housing with standard snips. just have to make sure it isn't crimped after the cut. good luck, enjoy.

pv
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ok its all ordered as above

hope it all works out, im sure ill get stuck somewhere though

thx for help all.

btw im definitely a large rider, so large frame
 

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I'm not sure a short cage rear derailleur will work with a 36t cassette. I think a 29 or 30t is as big as you can go. Also, Shimano brakes (used to?) Come with "center lock" rotors. The hubs are most likely "6 bolt standard". You can order rorors that will work. Your bb (bottom bracket) width will matter too. Is it a 73 or 83mm bb? This will make a difference when ordering your crank. This measurement also plays a role with your rear hub. If your bb is 83mm, then your rear hub will be a 150mm hub. If the bb is 73mm, a 135mm rear hub will be used generally. Lastly is the rear axle. It's important when ordering your wheelset. Is it a qr, thru-axle, or bolt-on? This all depends on the frame. Ttyl, Fahn
 

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Huffy Rider
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^^^What he said, and I forgot about the cable stop ends. And the little tits for the ends of the cables. It would be hard to know about all this little stuff if you didn't have a full toolbox of all of this little stuff. I only build my own bikes, never bought one complete. I like to know how stuff works and how it goes together.....like taking apart your rear hub to see what's in there, hopefully grease! And see how it goes back together, nice to know that in the comforts of your own garage and not on the side of a trail. A short cage works fine with a 34, not sure about the 36 tho. Have fun!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
hmmm the cage is actually a medium on the rear derailer, the short was just copied and pasted from inaccurate info

here is the tech spec, wonder if it will fit a 36t cassette?

Specs
Model Number RD-M980
Series XTR
Shifting Action Top-Normal
Mount Type Direct Attachment
Maximum Sprocket 32-36T
Minimum Sprocket 11T
Front Difference 18T
Total Capacity GS: 35T
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
I'm not sure a short cage rear derailleur will work with a 36t cassette. I think a 29 or 30t is as big as you can go. Also, Shimano brakes (used to?) Come with "center lock" rotors. The hubs are most likely "6 bolt standard". You can order rorors that will work. Your bb (bottom bracket) width will matter too. Is it a 73 or 83mm bb? This will make a difference when ordering your crank. This measurement also plays a role with your rear hub. If your bb is 83mm, then your rear hub will be a 150mm hub. If the bb is 73mm, a 135mm rear hub will be used generally. Lastly is the rear axle. It's important when ordering your wheelset. Is it a qr, thru-axle, or bolt-on? This all depends on the frame. Ttyl, Fahn
bb spacing on frame is 73mm
so i bought saint cranks 170 x 68/73, correct? (and bike is large frame and im 6ft3 so I don't think going 165mm necessary as someone earlier asked)

frame says 135x12mm thru axle, so I bought Axle Rear MTB DH
Thru Axle 12x135 hadley

the brakes I picked up 2nd hand that already came with shimano rotors, and I counted 6 holes, so I hope they fit somehow

Lol, just calculated bike is going to weigh approx 41lbs. Fun weight for pedaling uphill.
 

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The wheels, crank and brakes should work by what you posted. The derailleur I'm not 100% on though. ttyl, Fahn
 

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Make sure that rear derailleur is the one with the clutch.
You might wish you had the rim protection of a 2.5" tire in the rear.
A 36t cog will mean a very slack chain in the 11t. Can you give up some gearing range and run a 32t?
Do you want the tunability and complexity of the Cane Creek DB? A Rockshox Kage will be simpler, cheaper, and lighter.
A Shimano XT or SLX crankset will be lighter and cheaper. Should be strong enough.
Atomlab Pimp Lite front hub will be cheaper and lighter.
You could lose a couple pounds with Easton Havoc carbon bars, a slimmer seat like SLR XC, EVO Ti fork, NoTubes Flow rims, DT 240 rear hub, KMC X10 chain.
 
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