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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Without unnecessarily blowing money, and building it properly, what kind of build should I start working toward on a dh bike. I've spent 10 years riding and have a good understanding about what I need for x country stuff, but the dh world is sort of a new realm for me. I've been to whistler on 4 different occasions and rented their Konas, but don't really have a handle on what should be going into this thing, where I should spend the money, and build a bike that I'm not needing to upgrade in a year.

Sorry. Kind of vague, but it seems like there is a lot of knowledgeable riders on this forum and wanted to capitalize on it.
 

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how much money you want to spend....do you want lite or durable you want

pretty much everyone agrees saint brakes and cranks
The Canfield Crampon pedals are durable and very lite

MRP G2 chain guide

This is what I like (lite without giving up durability)
DVO Emerald fork
Crane Creek Double barrell shock
Sram XO shifter X9 derailler
mavic 823's and hadley hubs
SDG I beam seat post and seat

my bike weighs just under 36
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Frame is on the way with a Fox 40, and Fox RCx4 (I think that is the name) rear shock.

Durable. I'd like to keep the build to around 5k, and I'm 3400 in already. Not sure if that is possible. That being said, I would rather spend more and do it right than wish I did later. I've been down that road and ended up spending more in the long run. What's the deal with an I-beam seat? Stronger?

Where is the big place to save weight on a dh bike? I weigh 220, and need durable more than light. It would be nice to not have such a hog though. A little snappier in the technical chunk probably.

Thanks.
 

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Frame is on the way with a Fox 40, and Fox RCx4 (I think that is the name) rear shock.

Durable. I'd like to keep the build to around 5k, and I'm 3400 in already. Not sure if that is possible. That being said, I would rather spend more and do it right than wish I did later. I've been down that road and ended up spending more in the long run. What's the deal with an I-beam seat? Stronger?

Where is the big place to save weight on a dh bike? I weigh 220, and need durable more than light. It would be nice to not have such a hog though. A little snappier in the technical chunk probably.

Thanks.
lose weight yourself then get a semi lite wheelset...I love the Hadleys and Mavic 823's and run tubeless but that is like 1000.00....durable...I have been riding mine since 2006 with one rear wheel hoop replaced. love the XO and X9 rear combo for price and smooth shifting...MRP G2 mini.....got to have Saints but cranks 400 and brakes under 500 is a lot....check ebay for deals
 

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I weight the same as you and I have the same frame.
My build is as follows:
DHR, large
Boxxer R2C2
Fox RC4
Hope hubs with Flow EX rims
Race Face Sixc cranks
Thomson seat post
Easton carbon 35 bar
Easton 35 stem
Had Formula RO brakes, trying Saint this year
X9 shifter and derailleur (9speed)
shimano DX clip less pedals (sometimes ride with Point 1 podiums)
My bike weighs just under 38lbs. Will be just a hair over 38 when I install the saint brakes. There are no disposable parts on my bike except for my tires that I seem to go through like crazy (Maxxis minions and high rollers).
Everyone has their preference for parts. I would have gone with Hadley hubs (they are on my other bike) but the budget did not allow for them on this build.
I have not had any issues with the Flow EX rims. They are way lighter than Mavic 823, probably not as bombproof though, but I do not notice a difference in stiffness between my older set of wheels (Hadley, 823).
Have fun chosing your parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So what about crank arm length? Do they run shorter on DH bikes? Seems like the clearance would be a good thing, but when I'm descending I'm parallel to the ground on the cranks anyway.
 

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So what about crank arm length? Do they run shorter on DH bikes? Seems like the clearance would be a good thing, but when I'm descending I'm parallel to the ground on the cranks anyway.
Lengths vary between riders. Majority use the shorter 165mm crank arm length though, from what I can tell. I know Josh Bryceland runs 170's. Just whatever you are comfortable with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm 6'2''. Seems like too short and you might lose some control. I have no idea.
 

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Saint derailluer is bomb proof. Park DAG-2 is worth it's weight in new derailleur hangers :)

Light bicycle carbon rims on your hubs of choice are a good combo as long as you don't ride stupidly low pressures on rocky technical terrain.

Don't buy carbon bars if your gonna ride parks that hang bikes by stem/bars on the gondola.
 

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So what about crank arm length? Do they run shorter on DH bikes? Seems like the clearance would be a good thing, but when I'm descending I'm parallel to the ground on the cranks anyway.
Best way to go is this:

Descendent cranks 165mm length. They're the lightest non-carbon DH crank and a 3rd of the price. Right now you can find them for $100 on sale.

WTB Speed Disc wheelset. Unless you're trying to win races, don't waste your money on a $1000.00+ wheelset. The WTB is strong and durable and can be found for $200. Other considerations would be Azonic Outlaws or Spike Race28's.

For brakes go with Avid Codes. They retail for $480 a set new, but if you shop around you can find the set for $250 on sale, or around $200 used and in near new condition.

For drive train get x9 shifter and derailuer with a PG-950 9 speed cassette 11-26, and drop the 9th and 8th cog. Since its a DH bike you'll only need 7 gears.

Chainguide would be Truvative X0 or MRP G2 (same thing)

Tires would be Maxxis DHF ST front and 60 rear

Stem, bars, grips, seat, post, pedals....whatever is cheapest in the sizes you're looking at. Probably even go used. I had a $40 Answer Pro Taper and spent $84 on a Chromag Fubars, and the only difference between the 2 is I'm $84 poorer. This stuff just comes down to price and aesthetics.
 

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The Turner DHR is a low bike I'd recommend 165s for any height rider. Especially for someone just getting into DH. If you are looking for a great deal on a DH build kit. Send an email to my shop for a quote. DH is what we do. [email protected].
 

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Wheelset is big for weight savings. 823's are great but HEAVY. Azonic outlaws are cheap and durable, but also heavy. I personally have a set of the LB Carbon rims and I would highly recommend them to others, light and strong if used right.

I would go saint for drivetrain as they are more durable. People like saint brakes but my preference is Formula, I have had 5 sets on previous bikes that I sold and all are still working flawlessly.

Cranks, seat, bars are all part of your cockpit and will determine your riding position, choose wisely. The Canfield guys have a new set of cranks that go down to 155 length and have very competitive weights.
 

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I'm selling my Hadley/823 wheelset, PM me if you're interested.
Go-Ride nailed it, 165 cranks for the DHR for sure. Descendants, like Extremo recommended, are a good, no frills crank for pretty cheap and the hold up to hard riding and big dudes great.
 

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i think trying to shave weight on your first time dh build is a bit of a waste. You are going to bash the **** out of that bike, so you'll want durable parts, and durable + light = $$$, and you seem to have a budget. I run hope pro 2's with 823s and it is a really durable light maintenance package. If you hunt for deals you can most likely score a set for well under 1000. Brakes I personally prefer hope, but they are heavy and pricy, people seem to be fans of shimano stuff and you can find those cheap. Cranks I cant comment on, I got a set of raceface evolves off pinkbike for 90 bucks shipped, they were beat up but they work. Drive train x9 or saint, cockpit to preference. My bike is a bit on the heavy side, but I know I didn't skimp in the durability department and my bike wont blow up when I do something stupid
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for all the input. I agree that spending money on saving weight is needless, but I also don't want a 50lb bike if I can avoid it. I've been to Whistler on 4 different occasions and have had a blast on their rental Kona's. I'm able to ride all of the double black trails with a few sections on some of them that I've said "maybe next trip ". I didn't want to be that guy in a wheelchair, an arm sling, and neck brace I always see in the village. This bike has been an 8 year long daydream, and finally we have a bike park in Alaska to justify having one. I want to do it right, so I really appreciate all the feedback. So far I've settled on Saint Brakes, and a race face cockpit(cranks tbd). Sram X-9 drivetrain, probably an e-thirteen chain guide. Wheelset is my last big choice to make I guess. I'll be racing the bike, but not like a pro or anything. I'm sure heavy is decent there. Are most people running DH bikes tubeless?
 

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when i built up my DHR, I moved most of the parts from my highline. After riding it a few times, the first thing I changed were the cranks. Just like others have said here, the dhr is a low bike. I went from 175 to 165 Saints. I picked mine up from Go-Ride, had some on sale. I ride tubeless on on 823's laced to I9 DH hubs. Heavy a$$ wheels, but sturdy.
 

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Are most people running DH bikes tubeless?
Nope, it is pretty common but so are tubes. I personally run tubleless on all my bikes, excluding my DJ bike, as do about half my friends.
 

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Just to beat a deadhorse the DHR is super low and even with 165 cranks you have to be very careful at times, but you will love the bike in the turns. My sugestions for wheels are the new novatec wheelset, my friend has been using them for awhile now, or you can take advantage of go-rides wheelset sale, they are a DT swiss hub and rim combo for $400. I personally didn't like the RC4 on the DHR and moved over to a cane creek double barrel.
 

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I don't know what people look at when they pedal but I ran 170s on my dw dhr since the frame first came out with zero problems. Pedal where you can, don't where you can't. 5mm isn't huge and short cranks feel silly. I've got 165s on it since last summer but I'm going back.

It really doesn't matter that much. Either size is fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
For cranks I guess I want them to work and feel right while I'm descending. Pedaling sections are typically short on dh proper trails. I'm not planning on riding this thing up mountains. So maybe the shorter ones for clearance. I'm 6'2'' if that makes a difference. Seems like the further apart your feet are when descending with them parallel to the ground would give you more control over the bike.

Should be here this week. Seems like forever before the lifts are open though. Whistler in July.
 
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