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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just ordered all the shiz to build a new rear wheel for my SS. Surly "New" free/free 36h (Why dont they make a fixed/free in 36h???) hub. Sun Rhyno lite rim, 2.0 straight gauge wheelsmith spokes
Im pretty stoked!, this will be my first wheel build, Ill be following Sheldon Browns instructions.
Any pointers?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
galleywench said:
I used elements from both Sheldon's site and this one to build up my wheels earlier this year:
http://www.bikewebsite.com/build.htm
BTW: I used same hub except for 32hole. The nice thing about the SS wheel is you don't have to keep track of different spoke lengths since there is no dish and the flanges are the same on both sides.
thats exactly why i decided to make this my first project.
 

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donkey
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i just brought my new paul hub, salsa delgado rim, and dt swiss spokes home from the shop and am extremely intimidated. Are you using spokeprep or lin seed oil? I'm using a surly new disc front hub with the same spoke/rim combo and according to the UBI spoke calculator, it needs different length spokes... safe to round off?
 

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SSasquatch
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It is definately not rocket science, although there is a fair amount of 'black magic' when tensioning and stress relieving the wheel so it doesn't loosen up. I used linseed oil but only because I had it on hand already. I round up on the spoke measurements.
I have built 3 sets now and I forget the process each time because I do it so infrequently, but I imagine if you built a few every week you would get good at it fast.
 

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Sheldon's instructions are very good; as is this web page from Mike T:

http://www.execulink.com/~dtierney/wmc/faq.htm#WTQ1

It can't be stressed enough to add tension gradually and evenly... it will save you time at the end. I just finished a set of wheels using Rhyno Lites, ENO rear, XT front and Wheelsmith 13/14 spokes. Worked out just fine. I took my time as Mike T suggests... spent a rainy weekend on the wheels, one wheel per day (actually, about 4 hours).

Dogbait
 

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Dawgwalker
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First Wheelbuild

Remember to dish both wheels if they are disc.
I don't remember Brown getting into that issue.
 

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pvdwiki said:
Shimano has begun saying that the non-breaking side of the front wheel (when using a HB-M965) can be radial. A poor choice in my opinion.
Why would you waste time documenting the the recommendations of an organization that has poor enough judgement to use radial lacing in a disc wheel? :confused:

And why drop this bunch of disc bunk in the lap of someone embarking on their first wheel build using a free/free hub? :skep:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
PeanutButterBreath said:
Why would you waste time documenting the the recommendations of an organization that has poor enough judgement to use radial lacing in a disc wheel? :confused:

And why drop this bunch of disc bunk in the lap of someone embarking on their first wheel build using a free/free hub? :skep:
You sir get a gold star. Thank you.
If you are ever in Kalamazoo Michigan I will buy you a brewed beverage of your choice.
 

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Bike Dork
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As others have said
g. . . o. . . . . . s. . . l. . . o. . . w. . .
Remember that roundness is just as important as trueness.

Also always check your dish even if you're using all the same spoke lengths on both sides. Most folks have a tendency to true a wheel in a specific direction causing the wheel to dish a bit. You can check dish without a dishing tool by using a good ruler or calipers with your wheel in your frame. Just measure the distance between the rim and seatstays on both sides and make sure they're even.
good luck,
MonkeyB
 

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pvd said:
what on earth are you talking about?
Good point - the topic of wheel lacing is controversial at best - much like greasing taper fits.

The "pulling" spoke head-in convention probably has more to do with history, poorer spoke quality and un-canted flanges resulting in fatigue failures of the head-out spokes. There's also the wider stance from spoke deflection under torque. Other issues are deflection of the spokes into the dérailleur pulley cage or brake caliper, the use of asymmetric or symmetric lacing, torque transfer to the opposite flange, etc...

Without getting into details, I've never been a fan of asymmetric lacing, and I don't see the need for it in current bicycle wheels, especially SS or geared hubs with no dish (Rohloff's view is asymmetric lacing is not necessary on their hub).

Then there are equipment specific issues that effect wheel building - ie: a Maverick front hub & fork with an Avid Mech caliper and 160 rotors has so little clearance that they include a rotor shim, and if you build the wheel brake-force-pulling spoke head-in (like Shimano suggests) you will likely rub the caliper during hard braking.

The OP is building a non-disk, no-dish rear SS wheel, symmetric 3x lacing is fine, pulling spokes head-in or head-out is probably irrelevant.
 
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