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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey gents, I've never replaced a wheel before and my 4-yr old WTB "All Mountain" (lol) SpeedDisc rear wheel that came on my budget Forge Sawback seems to be going out.

A noticed a broken spoke about a month ago when I was going to true the wheels, so I had it replaced with the tune-up which included truing the wheels. I've went on about four shorter rides during the few sunny days that have graced my local since the tune.

During the last ride I thought heard a pinging noise. I recall checking the wheels and didn't notice a broken spoke. Well, after the ride today I have not one, but two broken spokes! Similar/close hub location, one on each side of wheel (disc and drive sides).

After some reading, am I right to assume this cheap old wheel is giving up?

If so, what's a good budget wheel to replace it with?

I've looked around and it seems most are sold as sets? I only need a rear!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Bump, anyone have recommendations or best site to purchase from? I'm really looking to order today.

The current is a 6-bolt disc, 9spd with I'm assuming standard XC sized QR for the rear.
 

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turtles make me hot
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What kind of shape is your hub in? You could have your bike shop lace a new rim and spokes to your hub.
Or, if you want budget, get a Shimano M529 hub for 49 bucks and a Sunringle Inferno 27 rim for 45 and some nice DT Swiss comps. That's my go to wheel when someone doesn't want to spend a ton.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
What kind of shape is your hub in? You could have your bike shop lace a new rim and spokes to your hub.
Or, if you want budget, get a Shimano M529 hub for 49 bucks and a Sunringle Inferno 27 rim for 45 and some nice DT Swiss comps. That's my go to wheel when someone doesn't want to spend a ton.
Hey, thanks for replying. Everyone seems to be avoiding my post like it's the plague. But, considering I read a post earlier where a guy wanted some budget wheels for a low-end Trek and the first reply was pointing him at a set of wheels that cost more than this bike...

I'm sure it's a cheap hub that isn't worth servicing (Hubs: Joytech Alloy Qr Disc 32H). My shop charged me $5 for the spoke and $10 to install it on top of the tune-up charge. $15 for one spoke. I don't think it's cost effective to have a local shop build me a wheel.

$49+27+45+building fee = out of my price range for one wheel. That Shimano hub sure looks nice, though. I did google wheel building and watch a few vids and read a few the sticky links from this forum...it looks fun to me. But I don't have a truing stand, a dish, a tensioner, etc.

How does this Sun Rhyno Lite MTB Wheel Set 26" x 1.75 set look for $131 shipped?

Or this set is almost the same, but $127 shipped. What is the difference besides the XT?

Or these WTB Laserdisc Deore for $109 shipped?

Would these wheels be ready to go? Or would they need to be trued/tensioned at the local shop?
 

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turtles make me hot
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Choose your poison. They're all fine. I know those Rhyno Lites are bombproof. My son has them on his 24" wheeled bike. I built those wheels almost three years ago and never had to pay em a bit of mind ever again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Choose your poison.
eek!

The more I read, the more it seems that proper tension and re-tensioning as it's trued is what makes a solid wheel. Squeezing parallel pairs, pressing the rim down on both sides of its QR after truing, etc.

Is it safe to assume that I broke more spokes after the LBS replaced the single spoke because the wheel wasn't tensioned? Does it indicate a flat spot since these two spokes broke (one disc, one drive side) directly across from each other on the hub?
 

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I know you only want a rear but check out Ebay for wtb i23 on xt wheel sets. The wheels go for 200$ and are light and strong.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk
 

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turtles make me hot
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eek!

The more I read, the more it seems that proper tension and re-tensioning as it's trued is what makes a solid wheel. Squeezing parallel pairs, pressing the rim down on both sides of its QR after truing, etc.

Is it safe to assume that I broke more spokes after the LBS replaced the single spoke because the wheel wasn't tensioned? Does it indicate a flat spot since these two spokes broke (one disc, one drive side) directly across from each other on the hub?
Kinda true. I've seen more spokes fail after one has been replaced. It's usually better to relace the whole wheel.
Yes... A wheel that's tensioned properly will last better than a generic machine built wheel.
 

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Hey gents, I've never replaced a wheel before and my 4-yr old WTB "All Mountain" (lol) SpeedDisc rear wheel that came on my budget Forge Sawback seems to be going out.

A noticed a broken spoke about a month ago when I was going to true the wheels, so I had it replaced with the tune-up which included truing the wheels. I've went on about four shorter rides during the few sunny days that have graced my local since the tune.

During the last ride I thought heard a pinging noise. I recall checking the wheels and didn't notice a broken spoke. Well, after the ride today I have not one, but two broken spokes! Similar/close hub location, one on each side of wheel (disc and drive sides).

After some reading, am I right to assume this cheap old wheel is giving up?

If so, what's a good budget wheel to replace it with?

I've looked around and it seems most are sold as sets? I only need a rear!
26" wheels are going for firesale prices on craigslist. I would look there first. In my area we have a pay it forward thread and people have given away wheelsets (I gave away a 26" wheelset for example).

The problem with wheels in your pricerange is no one would bother to post. So you might do better to put a wanted ad on craigslist to see if you get any bites.
 

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eek!

The more I read, the more it seems that proper tension and re-tensioning as it's trued is what makes a solid wheel. Squeezing parallel pairs, pressing the rim down on both sides of its QR after truing, etc.

Is it safe to assume that I broke more spokes after the LBS replaced the single spoke because the wheel wasn't tensioned? Does it indicate a flat spot since these two spokes broke (one disc, one drive side) directly across from each other on the hub?
No it is the cheap spokes that were probably over-tensioned from a machine dat the factory.
Good spokes do not bust off at the elbow like those often do.

Since wheels are the best upgrade you can make to a bike why not get some really good budget wheels like the Sun Ringle Chargers that go on sale from Nashbar once in a while. Wider stronger stiffer and lighter with a tubless kit included.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
26" wheels are going for firesale prices on craigslist.
The problem with wheels in your pricerange is no one would bother to post. So you might do better to put a wanted ad on craigslist to see if you get any bites.
I've been scouring CL for a while. In my neck of the woods there's more road and 29er wheels than 26. You would be surprised at the garbage people post. There was ONE set of Mavic/xt hubs but was gone almost as soon as it was posted.

Since wheels are the best upgrade you can make to a bike why not get some really good budget wheels like the Sun Ringle Chargers that go on sale from Nashbar once in a while. Wider stronger stiffer and lighter with a tubless kit included.
They're currently at $275 with shipping.

I'm a student on a budget. I just had the tune-up/spoke done, two new tires before that and was about to order an XC32 Solo-air as I'm currently riding on a pogo.

My front wheel/hub seems solid (never been out of true unlike the rear) and I would much rather have a new fork than a quality wheel set at the moment.


Thanks for the input guys, I'll probably just go with a Rhyno Lite rear since I still want a new fork for the summer.
 
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